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Botanical
Notes on Squaw Island, Niagara River http://www.mobot.org/plantscience/ResBot/niag/ |
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Botanical
Notes on Squaw Island, Niagara River Notes on the flora of Squaw Island, New York State, Erie County,
City of Buffalo, in the Niagara River: Field notes for August 5, 2001, and a
visit to the pier on March 29, 2003. by P. M. Eckel
Exploring for
Nineteenth‑century Plants considered rare today in New York State, a
field trip was conducted by the author on August 5, 2001, for two hours under
a sunny, glaring sky, initiated on the southern extremity of the island where
the lift bridge at the end of Ferry Street is located, and continued to the
northern island tip and a small stone pier or mole extending downstream a
short way parallel to the River. The observations of the floral character
listed below form an composite by which floristic elements noted in
Nineteenth Century archival manuscripts and herbarium specimens at the
Clinton Herbarium (BUF) of the Buffalo Museum of Science may be compared. The present day
overall aspect of Squaw Island is one of extreme disturbance where no
surfaces of a natural character are exposed. Two small exceptions observed
include a small backwater of essentially stagnant water at the southern side
of the International Railroad Bridge and a wet trough parallel to the lock
complex and on its western edge at the north end of the Island. These wet to
moist habitats display examples and evidence of natural recovery of native
species at this locality mainly due to the lack of routine and catastrophic
disturbance evident in all other areas on the island. The oldest plant
community, and the one most likely to represent some aspects of a native
flora, is that of the wet trough at the Island's north end. The south end of
the Island is covered with pavement for car‑parking in a park settling
enhanced with horticultural plantings. The weedy embankment forest on the
east side sported Staghorn Sumach (Rhus typhina), Box Elder (Acer
negundo), Tree‑of‑heaven (Ailanthus altissima) and
small sprouts of Hedge Maple (Acer campestre) escaped here as in the
borders of Goat Island (at Niagara Falls) where the tree is planted on Luna
Island. Dominating the
south‑center of the island is the sewer works of the City of Buffalo,
with a large settling pond associated with it. A large elevated spoil or
dumping area to the north of the sewer works themselves was once more
extensive, but a large portion of this dump was transported upstream and
recreated on what is now Tifft Farm Nature Preserve near the shore of Lake
Erie. North of the
mound on Squaw Island the island is bisected east‑west by the
International Railroad Bridge, built in 1873 by the then Grand Trunk Railway
and designed by E. P. Hannaford (Greenhill 1984). The railroad embankment was
covered with a lush weedy growth in 2001, with Thistle (Cirsium arvense
and C. vulgare) and Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa), on its south
side with Viper's Bugloss (Echium vulgare), Hungarian Bromegrass (Bromus
inermis), Staghorn Sumach and Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), but by
early 2003, this growth had been completely cut over, as well as grown up
areas along the river bank adjacent to the railway. The presence of a Border
Patrol car parked beside the rail bed seems to indicate the vegetation was
removed as a result of heightened security to better detect illegal entry
into the United States from Canada along this venue. It should be noted that
only a few weeks after this survey was made the tragedy in New York City
occurred with consequences for field survey work of the present nature and
plant community change throughout the following years (2002‑2003) in
areas along the US‑Canadian border. Continuing north
from the train bridge is an open area whose surface was completely bulldozed
with not even grass present (in 2003 the area was improved with plantings of
landscape evergreens, no doubt with the intent to provide asphalt surfaces, a
lawnscape and picnic tables in the years to come). The northern tip
of the Island is composed of armed or ballasted areas, enclosing water in
some places and extending northward along the river into a small stone pier.
There is a small, wet channel parallel to and on the western side of the
shiplock complex where an interesting weedy flora had become established. The eastern island
shore abuts the Niagara River current and is completely riprapped. The
western shore facing the Black Rock channel of the Niagara River is a soil
embankment that in 2001 was covered with a lush weedy growth, which has been
cut down in 2002. Starting at the
southern extremity of Squaw Island on the western shore, there is a bare wall
against the river current from which fishing is enjoyed and large masses of
water weeds, particularly Eel‑grass (Vallisneria americana) and Potamogeton
spp. (P. pectinatus), were pulled up with fishing lines and heaped on
the concrete. There is an asphalt biking lane parallel to the shore, on the
eastern margin of which occurs a chain‑link fence delimiting the sewer
plant and enclosing a mown lawn and numerous landscaped trees (Robinia
pseudoacacia; Gleditsia triacanthos, Salix fragilis). A
high diversity of weedy plants occurs along the fence: Cirsium sp.,
Peppermint (Mentha piperita), Bird's‑foot Trefoil (Lotus corniculatus).
The ballasted
area has a sparser flora of similar species: Chicory (Cichorium intybus),
Quack‑grass (Agropyron repens), Great Burdock (Arctium lappa),
Hedge Bindweed (Convolvulus or Calystegia sepium), Field
Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis), Bastard Toad‑flax (Linaria
vulgaris), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale), Curly Dock (Rumex
crispus), Lamb's Quarters (Chenopodium, cf. album or glaucum),
Catnip (Nepeta cataria), English plantain (Plantago lanceolata),
Plantain (Plantago major), Biennial Wormwood (Artemisia biennis), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota),
Common Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis
or S. altissima), Day Lily (Hemerocallis probably the fulva
or the orange flowered species), Multi‑flowered Rose (Rosa
multiflora) by the fence. Japanese Knotweed (Polygonum japonicum) is
escaping here; scrambling over the ballast occur Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus
vitacea), Common Pepper‑grass (Lepidium virginicum), a
species of Dogbane (Apocynum sp.), Black Mustard (Brassica nigra)
occur. Sprouting trees include Norway Maple (Acer platanoides) and
White Ash (Fraxinus americana). On the stone
ballast and gravelly path margins to the north where the breakwall ends
occurs a somewhat different weedy flora, including many sprouts of Tree‑of‑Heaven
(Ailanthus altissima), White Mulberry (Morus alba),
young Cottonwood (Populus deltoides), Burdock (Arctium lappa),
Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), Cockle‑bur (Xanthium strumarium),
Black Mustard, Common Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), Horseweed (Conyza
canadensis), Catnip, Hungarian Brome‑grass (Bromus
inermis) and a species of Love grass (Eragrostis), a Brome‑grass
(Bromus cf. secalinus, with bent awns), Scentless Chamomile (Matricaria
maritima although this should be checked whether it is rather a species
of Anthemis (Corn Chamolile or Mayweed, A. arvensis or A.
cotula), Canada Blue‑grass (Poa compressa). Just at
the International Railroad Bridge to the north of the mound there is numerous
young Staghorn Sumach (Rhus typhina) establishing itself with a
thicket of Bebb Willow (Salix bebbii) and Cottonwood (Populus deltoides). Note that the
rocks here appear to be sprayed with herbicide because much of the vegetation
appears blackened. Note also here, as to fauna, was a dead Striped Skunk (Mephitis
mephitis). At the end of the
sewer plant area and the settling ponds occurs the dumping mound supporting a
hard, dry, gravelly soil which is covered with grass species with
interspersed forbs. Species include: Red Top (Agrostis cf. gigantea),
Quackgrass (Agropyron repens), Timothy (Phleum pratense), Hungarian
Bromegrass (Bromus inermis), Orchard Grass (Dactylis glomerata),
Lolium cf. perenne, English Plantain (Plantago lanceolata), Knapweed (Centaurea spp.), Chicory,
Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense), Common Mugwort, Hairy Aster (Aster
pilosus var. pilosus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa),
St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum, Millefoil (Achillea millefolium,
White Sweet Clover (Melilotus alba), Where the
ballasted shore meets the International Railroad Bridge there is a backwater
area of essentially stagnant water with numerous pioneer native taxa:
Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) in the water. Although Purple
Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) has established itself, it grows side
by side with a species of Iris, possibly the locally rare, as so far understood,
Iris virginica var. shrevei. Broad‑leaved Cattail (Typha
latifolia) was established with Jewelweed (Impatiens cf. capensis) and
the lovely alien Flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus). Ambient shrubs
were Bebb Willow (Salix bebbii), Red‑osier Dogwood (Cornus
stolonifera) with Cottonwood (Populus deltoides). Moist soil on
the shore of this pool supported an abundance of the Mild Water Smartweed (Polygonum
hydropiperoides) and beside the path a patch of Lolium (probably perenne,
English Rye Grass). Beyond the bridge
with its great Salix cf. fragilis willow tree occur more weeds,
denser but apparently not more diverse. North of the
bridge occurs a very large, open area whose surface is completely stripped
with isolated mature trees of Crack Willow (Salix fragilis),
Weeping Willow (S. babylonica) and Trembling Aspen (Populus tremuloides).
Subsequently (in early 2003) evergreens had been planted. There was no
asphalted surface. Along the western
shore of the island on the Niagara river, there is a more developed forest
above the riprap with more mature trees and shrubs of Staghorn Sumach,
Cottonwood, White Ash, Crack Willow, much Box Elder (Acer negundo),
some Catalpa (Catalpa cf. speciosa). Shrubby thickets were
composed of Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) and some River Grape (Vitis
riparia). Summer‑cypress (Kochia scoparia), a foreign
weed spreading throughout the streets of Buffalo, was also present here. At the narrowed
northern tip of the island occurred a sterile lagoon on the west side and a
channel on the eastern. Extensive Trees‑of‑Heaven grew around the
lagoon with Canada Thistle and Bouncing Bet (Saponaria officinalis).
The northern end
of Squaw Island is connected to the stone pier or mole to the north of it by
a walkway: contained water empondment due to this causeway occurred on the
west side of the Black Rock Canal building complex. This empondment tapers to
a low, moist ditch to the south with muddy to moist shores starting exposed
and ending in a shaded weedy woods. Lawn and bulldozed areas extended quite
to the muddy edge of this area. Quieter water
here supported a mix of native and introduced species: some Narrow‑leaved
Cattail (Typha angustifolia), Scentless Chamomile (Matricaria
maritima, but see note above), Clovers (Trifolium pratense, T.
hybridum, T. repens), probably from lawn seed, Bird's‑foot
Trefoil, a field of White Sweet Clover, a tiny plant of what appeared to be a
Lobelia, Polygonum cf. persicaria, Chenopodium
album/glaucum, the native marsh Bluejoint Grass (Calamagrostis canadensis)
grew with alien Lolium grass and Timothy, Black Mustard, Biennial
Wormwood, Lettuce (Lactuca cf. serriola), Canada and Bull
Thistle (Cirsium vulgare), abundant Goldenrod (Solidago cf.
gigantea‑canadensis), Purple Loosestrife, Peppermint (Mentha piperita),
Evening‑primrose (Oenothera cf. biennis), Curly Dock,
Motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca), New England Aster (Aster
novae‑angliae), possibly Hairy Hedge‑nettle (Stachys
hispida), Jewelweed (Impatiens cf. capensis), Pensylvania
Smartweed (Polygonum pensylvanicum), a large‑flowered Willow‑herb
(Epilobium cf. angustifolium), Joe Pye‑weed (Eupatorium
maculatum), Creeping Buttercup (Ranunculus repens); Comfrey (Symphytum
officinale). An interesting grass Poa nemoralis, occurring
throughout the shaded Niagara river woodlands and conspicuous in late summer
growing in shade where no other grass likes to grow. Red‑osier Dogwood
thickets developed at the edge of shaded trees, with abundant River Grape (Vitis
riparia), Bebb Willow. Mature trees of Cottonwood developed here, with
Honey Locust and Black Locust in the more disturbed northern parts. Japanese
Knotweed is developing at the edge as well. On flat concrete
surface of the stone pier occurred dense carpets of Mossy Stonecrop (Sedum
acre), which was also present, although not as extensive, on the mole
extending southward of the southern tip of Squaw Island. This species also
forms mats on the artificial berm or mole on the northwestern extremity of
Buckhorn Island State Park on Grand Island above the Niagara river cataracts,
as well as alvar areas in the caprock shelves or tables of the Niagara River
gorge. Amid the Sedum
grew more Bouncing Bet. Along the pier and lagoon areas occurred a forest of
Box Elder, Honey Locust (Gleditsia triacanthos), Black Locust (Robinia
pseudoacacia), Crack Willow, Mugword, but also Elderberry (Sambucus
canadensis), Honeysuckle (Lonicera tartarica), Panicled Dogwood (Cornus
racemosa), White Ash, Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica). A coarse Elm
(Ulmus spp.) appearing at the end of the pier did not appear to be
either of our native species. The pier was armed with fresh ballast. The east side of
Squaw Island is armed with walls on the north, and from the International
Bridge south there was, but since removed, a dense weed forest on the
embankment of Cottonwood, Crackwillow, Staghorn Sumach, fields of Mugword,
Japanese Knotweed, Purple Loosestrife, Black Mustard, River Grape. There is
here a little muddy beach more or less exposed at times of low water. No access is
available to the shoreline from the entrance to the Buffalo Sewer Authority
Road and entrance to the north, south to the park area on the south extremity
of the island, but there seems little doubt that the embankment flora just
described north of this area describes this area as well. Two moist areas
of native regenerating habitat were indicated and with some well‑informed
weeding, could conceivably develop into a community of native taxa typical of
the present shoreline Niagara river plant habitats. Since many of the native
species here of trees, shrubs and herbs are opportunistic and pioneer taxa
and hence quite tough and aggressive, management of the enthusiastic weed
flora and a curtailment of noxious horticultural species such as Buckthorn,
Box Elder, and species such as Mugwort and Purple Loosestrife, both of which
appear generally manageable here, could generate a well‑developed
riparian habitat with associated avian, mammalian and other fauna. Maintenance and
other disturbance regimes, the planting of inappropriate and invasive species
of trees (Robinia forms cloned colonies difficult to subsequently
eradicate; Gleditsia escapes), mowing, lawn implementation, use of
herbicides on ballast promotes a deteriorated landscape at odds with a naturally
regenerating riparian shoreline community. Although the
southern pier or mole was not examined on this day, a brief field trip for
photographic purposes was made later on March 29, 2003. The author took a
walk down this stone pier between the ice‑dotted Niagara River on the
west (the Lake Erie ice pack kept at bay by the ice boom out in the lake
above the mouth of the river) and the Black Rock harbor on the east. There
was plenty of substrate available for botanical establishment and the plants
noted, although blighted by winter conditions, were somewhat recognizable.
There were several unnamed and dwarf tree species, at least two willow
species, just exposing their fuzzy buds, one species of the two quite
frequent, one bush of Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus stolonifera), a
large mint (four angled stem with verticles of dried flowers, Leonurus?)
and a smaller (Lycopus?), Cockle‑bur (Xanthium strumarium),
a large Chenopodium, several stems of Summer‑cypress (Kochia scoparia),
one Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica), a clump of Japanese Knotweed (Polygonum
cuspidatum), a clump of Evening‑primrose (Oenothera cf. biennis),
Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare), Horseweed (Conyza canadensis),
Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum
salicaria), stems of Solidago and Artemisia. Mossy
Stonecrop (Sedum acre) forms mats here in one area just as it does in
the stony structures at the northern extremity of Squaw Island. It should be
noted that the vegetation favored the Black Rock Harbor or eastern side of the
pier perhaps avoiding the strong and harsh winds of the prevailing westerlies
coming off Lake Erie. Note many of the species named are the same as those
mentioned elsewhere on Squaw Island. No rare species
were observed, although Iris virginica var. shrevei needs looking for earlier
in the year. A record for Cirsium altissimum was misidentified in the
collections as BUF. No Equisetum species were noted anywhere on the island. A
possible rare species of Oenothera noted from the late 1800's should also be
looked for. French, J. H. 1860. Historical and Statistical Gazetteer of New York
State. R. P. Smith Publisher, Syracuse. Reprinted by Heart of the Lakes Publishing,
Interlaken, NY. 1980. Greenhill, Ralph. 1984. Spanning Niagara, the International Bridges
1848‑1962. University of Washington Press. Seattle. Introductory map: U.S.G.S. Buffalo NW Quadrangle, New York-Ontario,
7.5 minute series (topographic), 1965. Views (If you have a modem connection, the pictures
will take a while to download.)
Looking north (downstream in the Niagara River)
from the north end of the Bird Island Pier at the southern end of Squaw
Island. In view is the parking lot, park area and the east-west International
Railroad Bridge in the background. Bridge in the foreground is the Ferry
Street (lift) Bridge over the Black Rock canal. The Niagara River is on the
left (west).
Looking north on the Bird Island Pier toward the
southern end of Squaw Island showing established vegetation that tends to
favor the Black Rock channel side of the pier (winter view). Plants include
Evening Primrose, Purple Loosestrife, Mugwort (see text).
Another winter view from the Bird Island Pier
looking toward the southern end of Squaw Island, the Niagara River on the
left (west), the Black Rock canal on the right (east). The bridge is the
Ferry Street (lift) Bridge. |
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