| Chlorosis is a general term that refers to the
symptoms of uniform yellowing of leaves. It may be
caused by any number of stresses including: nutrient
deficiency, root damage, temperature extremes,
herbicide misapplication, too much light, too little
water or too much water, insect feeding, or
disease pathogens.
Iron chlorosis is a common form of chlorosis. It is
the result of a lack of iron in the new growth of the
plant. Iron is not necessarily deficient in the soil—it
may be there, but just in an unavailable form for
absorption through the root system.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The leaves of affected plants turn uniformly
yellowish-green; or very commonly, they turn yellow
between the veins, but the veins remain green.
Yellowing is most common on new growth. The new
growth may be stunted. In severe cases, leaves may
die and drop prematurely. Twigs and branches may
experience stunting and dieback, and plants may fail
to produce flowers or fruit.
Yellowing is fairly certain to be due to iron chlorosis
if the leaf veins remain green on the otherwise
yellow leaf, and the chlorosis appears first on the
younger or terminal leaves, spreading later to the
lower parts of the plant. Iron chlorosis is most
common on pin oak, sweet gum, and river birch
trees as well as rhododendrons and azaleas.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Monitor the problem. Many factors can cause
leaves to become chlorotic. Therefore, before
assuming the problem is lack of iron, have the
problem diagnosed. Weather conditions and
extreme changes in soil moisture may induce
temporary symptoms of yellowed leaves. These
symptoms may disappear as conditions
normalize. Persistent chlorosis, however, needs
attention. Plants commonly associated with
chlorotic symptoms include holly, hydrangea,
apple, blackberry, blueberry, cherry, grape,
arborvitae, birch, boxwood, lilac, rhododendron,
azalea, sweet gum, pin oak, and other oaks.
2. Use a foliar feeding for temporary results.
Spraying the foliage with an iron compound will
correct leaf chlorosis temporarily. Iron sulfate,
iron chelate, and soluble organic iron complexes
are used. Spraying will not affect leaves produced
later in the season. Several sprays at intervals of 2
or 4 weeks may be needed to keep developing
foliage green. The corrections will last only one
season and will not change the underlying
deficiencies that are soil-related.
3. Give your plants good growing conditions. Longterm
correction of iron chlorosis requires good
soil. Improve the soil surface by mulching with
2–4 inches of organic materials such as leaf mulch
or compost. Also, ensure good drainage. The soil
pH should be measured with a soil test. An
alkaline soil is often the cause of iron chlorosis
because it limits the solubility of iron in soil water.
4.Adjust the soil pH to make the iron available.The
best long-range solution for correcting iron
chlorosis in soils that are too alkaline is to make
the soil more acid by lowering the soil pH.
A pH of 6.0 to 6.5 is desirable for most plants.
As low as 4.5 is recommended for azaleas,
rhododendrons, and blueberries.
The soil can be made more acid by the addition
of sulfur, aluminum sulfate, or iron sulfate. Iron
chelates, ferrous sulphate, aluminum sulphate, or
sulfur can simply be spread on the soil surface
and allowed to dissolve into the soil by watering
and rainfall. This method requires more material,
but is practical and feasible for the home
gardener and may last several seasons, though the
initial results are slow. Quicker effects may be
seen if the chemicals are worked into the soil
taking care not to cultivate too deeply so as to
damage plant roots. Another method is to use
water-soluble materials which can be injected
into the soil with a root feeder.
An excellent technique for solving chlorosis problems has been developed by Dr. Carl Whitcomb of Lacebark Inc in Stillwater, Oklahoma. His directions from his website are included here with his permission Solving Chlorosis Problems and Total Nutrition for Trees.
5. Trunk implantation and injection. Implanting or
injecting an iron chelate or iron sulfate directly
into the trunk of the tree through holes is often
effective in 30 days and will last for 1 to 2 years.
This method is employed by professional arborists
and is quick, neat, and safe. However, it is only
used when the plant has little or no dieback as a
result of iron chlorosis. |