| Aphids are a very large and diverse group of insects
that plague the garden especially during the
beginning and end of the growing season. At least
4,000 aphid species have been identified; variations
in color, size, and appearance make it impossible
to generalize.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Aphid damage may appear as pale yellow spots on
leaves, leaves that are curled, puckered, or stunted,
and/or distorted blossoms. Look for aphids at the
beginning of the growing season. They should be
especially abundant on stems and buds where
nitrogen concentrations are higher. Aphids multiply
more rapidly with high nitrogen levels. Another sign
to look for is a sooty black layer on the leaves.
Because aphids suck more plant sap than they can
use, they exude honeydew onto leaf surfaces.
Envied by honeybees and ants, this honeydew
substance is very sweet and molds quickly.
Life Cycle
Females lay eggs toward the end of the growing
season in the bark or bud scales of their favorite
plant. When the eggs hatch the following spring, the
nymphs are all female and are called "stem mothers".
These females will give live birth to daughters
without mating. Toward the end of the growing
season, males are produced, mating occurs, and the
eggs will again overwinter in the plant material.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Through good horticultural practices, aphids can
be minimized. One step is to control the amount
of nitrogen added to the garden. By using slowrelease
fertilizers such as ammonium or
urea-based fertilizers, compost, decomposed
manure, fish emulsion, or liquid seaweed, you
slow the rate at which the aphids can reproduce.
Another step is to prune moderately in winter and
early spring, saving the heavy pruning for midgrowing
season. This prevents the aphids from
destroying fresh growth in early spring. The last
step is to encourage a continuum of flowers that
will attract the aphids’ natural predators—
ladybugs and praying mantis.
2. Try spraying the aphids off the plants with plain
water, or remove them by hand with a cloth.
3. Insecticidal soap can be used, but in moderation,
as it will kill beneficial insects as well as the aphids.
4. Insecticidal baits that contain boric acid can be
used to control the ants, which have a symbiotic
relationship with the aphids. The ants protect the
aphids and get the honeydew that they ooze in
return. Use caution; boric acid is toxic to people
and animals. Ant barriers placed at the base of
infested plants is another way to discourage
ants and allow predators to attack the aphid
population.
5. Silica Aerogel/Pyrethrin is a product that will
dissolve the cuticle layer on the insect causing it
to dehydrate and die.
6. Use chemical insecticides. Pesticides registered
for use include carbaryl (Sevin), disulfoton (Disyston),
malathion, bifenthrin, imidicloprid, permethrin, petroleum oil,
and pyrethrins. |
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Woolly apple aphids (Hemiptera) on hawthorn (Crataegus) with death lurking over head--egg of predaceous green lacewing (Neuroptera)
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High resolution image available.
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The upper surface of some leaves on this river birch (Betula nigra) look puckered and distorted because of the aphids (Hemiptera) feeding on the underside
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High resolution image available.
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The leaf of this tulip tree (Liriodendron) is shiny and sticky from honeydew, the excrement of certain piercing sucking insects (Hemiptera), in this case, aphids
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High resolution image available.
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Aphids excrete honeydew as they feed and in turn sooty mold sometimes feeds on the honeydew, as on this tulip tree leaf (Liriodendron)
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High resolution image available.
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Aphids (Hemiptera) come in many colors; sometimes they blend into the background and are difficult to see; other times, they stand out, as do these red aphids
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High resolution image available.
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