| White-tailed deer, Odocoileus virginianus, have
become garden and landscape pests in many parts
of the country. Encroachment of their habitat by
suburban and urban development, reduced hunting,
and the absence of natural predators have all added
to the problem. In the wild, deer will eat the buds,
leaves, and stems of many woody plants. In gardens
they will eat these as well as a variety of garden
plants. Patterns of damage vary from year to year
depending on weather, food availability, deer
population density, and other factors.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Deer can be observed browsing during the day but
feed mostly at night when they often are not directly
observed. Torn leaves or stalks with ragged edges are
common as deer tear or jerk plants when feeding.
Rabbits, woodchucks, and other small animals
usually leave cleanly cut plant remains. Male deer
(bucks) can also injure plants when they rub their
antlers on trees. Saplings are especially vulnerable.
Signs are vertical scrapes and shredded bark on
saplings, exposing the wood.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Develop a plan. Implementing a complete deercontrol
program at once can be difficult. Instead,
develop a long-term plan and phase it in over
time. Consider problems with deer as one of your
landscape design considerations and provide
barriers or fencing where control is critical.
Consult with your local municipality about their
deer control program.
2. Alter the habitat. Deer prefer to feed at the edge
of woods or other cover. Locate desirable plants
as far as possible from woods, brush, or other
areas where deer are known to be. Deer will eat
nearly any plant if they are under sufficient
pressure, such as extended snow cover or
overcrowding, so assume that any plant could be
damaged or destroyed under some conditions.
Nevertheless, it is prudent to use plants that are
considered less favored by deer. See the plant list
which follows.
3. Scare devices. Many scare devices are noisy, and
therefore are not feasible in typical suburban or
urban settings. Under nearly any circumstances,
such devices soon lose their effectiveness because
deer learn that they are not to be feared. A dog is
a good deterrent, but comes with its own care
and containment issues. Containing a dog with an
"invisible fence" device often provides an
adequate solution if the area to be managed is
not too large.
4. Repel the deer. repellents do not eliminate deer
problems; they can serve only as containment
measures. They usually are water-soluble, so
require reapplication regularly. Further, they may
not work when food is scarce. However, new
materials are constantly being introduced, so it is
prudent to stay aware of changing circumstances
and to share knowledge with others who find
themselves in similar circumstances.
(a) Commercial repellents. The following are
some commercially available products that have
proven to be effective. When using chemicals,
read labels carefully and follow directions
completely.
Deer-Away (37% putrescent whole-egg solids)
This product is a contact repellent which
smells and tastes like rotten eggs. Labeled for
use on fruit trees before flowering, ornamental
shrubs and trees, it is a relatively long-lasting.
Hinder (Ammonium soaps of higher fatty
acids) This is one of the few repellents labeled
for use on edible crops. However, it washes off
with rain.
Thiram (11% to 42% tetramethylthiuram
disulfide) This is a fungicide which acts as a
contact repellent. It is used most often on
dormant trees and shrubs. Some trade names
are: Bonide Rabbit-Deer Repellent, Nott’s
Chew-Nott, Gustafson 42-S, and Magic Circle
Rabbit Repellent.
Ropel (0.065% benzyl diethyl [(2,6
xylylcarbomoyl) methyl] ammonium
saccharide), 0.035% thymol) This is a contact
repellent that is applied each year to new
growth. It is not recommended for
edible crops.
(b) Non-Commercial Repellents. These products
have been reported to be inconsistently effective
but may be worth trying.
Tankage This product is putrefied meat scraps
that can be placed in perforated cans and
attached to 4-foot stakes near each shrub or
tree to be protected.
Human Hair Human hair can be used in the
same way as tankage. Place the hair in mesh
bags and hang them on stakes near each shrub
or tree to be protected.
Bar Soap Drill holes in bars of soap and hang
them on stakes near each shrub or tree.
5. Exclude the deer. Exclusion of deer is the only
consistently effective control measure available.
Because this solution is expensive as well as
demanding, it is suggested that detailed
instructions be used. An excellent publication
which provides plans for construction of fences of
various kinds as well as many other details of
deer control measures is “Controlling Deer
Damage in Missouri” (MP685) published by
University Outreach and Extension, University of
Missouri-Columbia. The document can be viewed
on the Internet at:
http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/miscpubs/mp0685.htm.
Plants Not Favored by Deer
Trees
|
Ash (Fraxinus)
Baldcyprus (Taxodium)
Beech (Fagus)
Birch (Betula)
Catalpa (Catalpa)
Chestnut (Castanea)
Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia)
Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus)
Ginkgo (Ginkgo)
Hemlock (Tsuga)
Holly, American (Ilex opaca)
|
Ironwood (Ostrya)
Larch (Larix)
Locust, Black (Robinia)
Locust, Honey (Gleditsia)
Mimosa/Silktree (Albizia)
Pine, Austrian (Pinus nigra)
Pine, Mugo (Pinus mugo)
Pine, Red (Pinus resinosa)
Pine, Scotch (Pinus sylvestris)
Redbud (Cercis)
Russian Olive (Elaeagnus)
|
Sassafras (Sassafras)
Smoketree (Cotinus)
Sourwood (Oxydendrum)
Spruce (Picea)
Sweetgum (Liquidambar)
Sycamore (Platanus)
Tree Lilac (Syringa reticulata)
Tuliptree/Yellow Poplar
(Liriodendron)
|
Shrubs
|
Barberry (Berberis)
Beautybush (Kolkwitzia amabilis)
Boxwood (Buxus)
Coralberry (Symphoricarpos)
Forsythia (Forsythia)
Holly, Chinese (Ilex cornuta)
|
Inkberry (Ilex glabra)
Juniper (Juniperus)
Kerria (Kerria)
Lilac (Syringa)
Oregon Grape (Mahonia)
Pieris, Japanese (Pieris japonica)
|
Smoke Bush (Cotinus)
Snowberry (Symphoricarpos)
Spicebush (Lindera)
Spirea (Spiraea)
Sweet Shrub (Calycanthus)
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis)
|
Ground Covers
|
Ajuga (Ajuga)
Bergenia (Bergenia)
Bunchberry (Cornus)
Catmint (Nepeta)
Epimedium (Epimedium)
Ferns (Various Genera
and Species)
Ginger (Asarum)
Juniper (Juniperus)
Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla)
|
Lamium (Lamium)
Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria)
Lily Turf (Liriope)
Lungwort (Pulmonaria)
Mosses (Various Genera
and Species)
Pachysandra (Pachysandra)
Potentilla (Potentilla)
Sedum (Sedum)
Sempervivum (Sempervivum)
|
Snow-in-Summer (Cerastium)
Strawberry, Barren (Waldsteinia)
Strawberry, Indian (Duchesnea)
Strawberry, Wild (Fragaria)
Sweet Woodruff (Asperula)
Vinca (Vinca)
Violet (Viola)
Willow (Salix)
|
Perennial Vines
|
Akebia (Akebia)
Bittersweet (Celastrus)
Clematis (Clematis)
Grape (Vitis)
|
Honeysuckle (Lonicera)
Ivy, Boston (Parthenocissus)
Silver Lace Vine (Polygonum)
Trumpet Creeper (Campsis)
|
Virginia Creeper
(Parthenocissus)
Wisteria (Wisteria)
|
Hardy Bulbs
|
Allium (Allium)
Autumn Crocus (Colchicum)
Crown Imperial (Fritillaria)
Crocus (Crocus)
Daffodil (Narcissus)
|
Eranthis (Eranthis)
Fritillary (Fritillaria)
Glory-of-the-Snow (Chionodoxa)
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari)
Narcissus (Narcissus)
|
Puschkinia (Puschkinia)
Scilla (Scilla)
Snowdrop (Galanthus)
Snowflake (Leucojum)
|
Annuals and Biennials
|
Ageratum (Ageratum)
Campanula (Campanula)
Candytuft (Iberis)
Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis)
Four O’Clock (Mirabilis)
Foxglove (Digitalis)
Heliotrope (Heliotropium)
Larkspur (Delphinium)
|
Lobelia (Lobelia)
Marigold (Tagetes)
Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia)
Monkey Flower (Mimulus)
Morning Glory (Ipomoea)
Moonflower (Ipomoea)
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum)
Petunia (Petunia)
|
Poppy (Papaver)
Salvia (Salvia)
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum)
Stock (Matthiola)
Sunflower (Helianthus)
Sweet William (Dianthus)
Thistle (Cirsium)
|
Hardy Perennials
|
Anemone (Anemone)
Astilbe (Astilbe)
Bee Balm (Monarda)
Bergenia (Bergenia)
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
Butterfly Weed (Asclepias)
Columbine (Aquilegia)
Coreopsis (Coreopsis)
Crane’s Bill (Geranium)
Cyclamen (Cyclamen)
Daisy, Fleabane (Erigeron)
Daisy, Shasta (Leucanthemum)
Dame’s Rocket (Hesperis)
Foam Flower (Tiarella)
Gentian (Gentiana)
Geum (Geum)
Goldenrod (Solidago)
|
Hellebore (Helleborus)
Hibiscus (Hibiscus)
Iris (Iris)
Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium)
Lychnis (Lychnis)
Marsh Marigold (Caltha)
Meadow Rue (Thalictrum)
Meadow Sweet (Filipendula
hexapetala)
Monkshood (Aconitum)
Peony (Paeonia)
Phlox (Phlox)
Pinks (Dianthus)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea)
Rock Cress (Arabis)
Russian Sage (Perovskia)
Salvia (Salvia)
|
Sedum (Sedum)
Sempervivum (Sempervivum)
Snakeroot (Eupatorium)
Sneezeweed (Helenium)
Snow-in-Summer (Cerastium)
Soapwort (Saponaria)
Speedwell (Veronica)
Toadflax (Linaria)
Valerian (Valeriana)
Violet (Viola)
White Mugwort
(Artemisia lactiflora)
Yarrow (Achillea)
Yucca (Yucca)
|
Herbs
|
Angelica (Angelica)
Artemesia (Artemesia)
Basil (Ocimum)
Borage (Borago)
Burnet (Sanguisorba)
Catmint (Nepeta)
Chamomile (Matricaria)
Chives (Allium)
Comfrey (Symphytum)
Dill (Anethum)
Fennel (Foeniculum)
|
Feverfew (Chrysanthemum)
Germander (Teucrium)
Horehound (Marrubium)
Hyssop (Hyssopus)
Lamb’s Ear (Stachys)
Lavender (Lavendula)
Lemon Balm (Melissa)
Lovage (Levisticum)
Mint (Mentha)
Mullein (Verbascum)
Oregano (Origanum)
|
Parsley (Petroselinum)
Perilla (Perilla)
Rosemary (Rosmarinus)
Rue (Ruta)
Sage (Salvia)
Santolina (Santolina)
Savory (Satureja)
Thyme (Thymus)
|
Special Note: Deer are managed and protected as game animals. Missouri, as well as most other
states, and many municipalities have deer control programs. It would be useful to discuss any deer
problems with such authorities before undertaking extensive control measures. |