I reported last time that the berries on the Foster hollies were being devoured. Well, it is robins that have the voracious appetite. Not just a few, but a flock of the fattest robins I have ever seen. One flew so low when I approached the trees that it hit the top of my head!!

Late fall has brought us the most amazing color on many shrubs and perennials. Once again it reminds us that pruning all herbaceous plants to the ground really cuts this autumn season short. Our new tree roses ‘Polar Joy’ have the most amazing purple foliage. Across the way is Iris ‘Autumn Tryst’ also purple and still re-blooming. I took a whiff this morning and the fragrance reminds me of Mothers Day, when the bearded irises are at their peak in the spring. The whole palette of fall color is represented with Hydrangea quercifolia and its cultivars. Stunning reds and purples with splashes of yellow. We wouldn’t think of cutting off all of the old flowers on the hydrangea as now they look like natural ornaments. Crepe myrtles are displaying shades of purple and very attractive seed pods as well and will be left alone until spring. The grasses are incredible and are starting to dominate the fall garden. The difference this season so far is that the turf that sets off the gardens is brilliant green due to all the rain. I might even have to admit that I like it. Happy Thanksgiving!

We have observed that almost all the berries on our Foster Hollies in the George Washington Carver Garden are gone already!! Most years, the red berries persist until late winter when the sugar in the fruit turns to a more palatable form. However, we are not sure if the berries are being devoured by birds or those rascally squirrels. I shall come to work earlier and try to see just who has diminished the crop. Actually, we grow the hollies, not only because they are so beautiful and provide evergreen screening but also to feed the Garden wildlife. But it is interesting to see the fruit almost gone at such an early time of the year. We are all so busy, but sometimes it is good to bide-a-wee (this Scottish saying means stay awhile) and see what is going on in your garden. Wildlife seems in a hurry also, to eat and store as many treasures as they can find. The garden scene is changing quickly now, and carpets of leaves cover the very green grass marking this cycle of the natural year. If the sun ever comes out during the day, I am going to sit on a bench and observe the torrent of falling leaves and while I bide-a-wee, maybe catch a glimpse of who is eating our berries.

I hope you can visit the Kemper Center in the next week or two and see a most beautiful perennial. Located in the Enterprise-Rent-A-Car Flower Border, both by the ramp and under the arbor is a most different chrysanthemum. Its’ cultivar name of ‘Single Apricot’ is not very creative but very descriptive. Apricot it is, but the most luminous shade I have ever seen. This plant remains vegetative for the balance of summer and then overnight, a flower bud appears at the end of each stem.

The buds are just now beginning to open. If it ever stops raining, I am positive that the sun will pop all of the buds open. The flowers are designed to illustrate with intensity the phenomenon of phototropism. All of the flowers search for the bright light of the sun and turn their faces in that direction.

As gardeners, it would be good to notice this tendency and position this lovely plant so the front of the flowers is in full view. The translucent quality of the petals is the greatest attribute along with the observation that nothing bothers it for the entire growing season.

You can leave it uncut for the winter and then in spring, cut it within a couple of inches to the ground. When it reaches half the mature height of about 24 inches, give it a pruning to about 12 inches. This will keep it shorter than normal and bushier. Even if you don’t give it a spring pruning, it will reward you with a beautiful but lankier specimen. The only downfall is having to wait so long in the growing season to see it again. To everything there is a season.

We are planting our pansies in various gardens in the Kemper Center. It was very hard to take out the summer annuals as they were still looking good. Time marches on and the task is at hand. We plant both Viola cornuta better known as Johnny Jump Up and Viola x wittrockiana, the bigger pansies, both single colored and those with blotches. Of the two kinds, the Johnny Jump Ups always come through the winter best. They will grow on now in the nice fall weather and persist over the winter. Flowers will be sparse during cold weather, but then in the spring, they quickly achieve a mature habit. Some even form hedges of color, unlike any others that are planted in the spring.

Look for new series of pansies in the Flower Trial Garden - Velocity, Velour, Venus and improved Panolas. Many have been bred for wintering over. Now hybridizers are working on heat tolerance. Are you ready for pansies that bloom all summer?

The summer is fleeting and September signals the time to accomplish fall gardening in our area. Many perennials can be moved now, if needed. Dig as many roots with the soil as you possibly can and keep the soil moist, even if the weather seems cool. Remember, it will be adjusting to its’ new home and needs a little help from you. If you have perennials that are only marginally hardy here, I would wait until spring to move them.

I would not transplant ornamental grasses as they are at their seasonal splendor and adjust poorly to a new site if transplanted this time of year. Also, late blooming perennials such as asters and goldenrods are probably better divided or moved in the spring as they are still looking wonderful in the garden. A rule of thumb is if the plant blooms in the spring, transplant it in the fall. If it blooms in the fall, transplant it in the spring. If the plant blooms all summer, you probably are ok dividing or moving it in the fall, such as cone flowers. I can remember many times I would consult a reference to make sure the timing was correct and my books show the results with muddy fingerprints!

Peonies can be divided now. Each division should have three eyes and be planted with the top of the eye two inches below the soil. Remove all foliage and discard, do not compost the leaves as it may have a disease that could winter over if you save it. This applies to the herbaceous peony but not the tree peonies. The tree peonies are not divided as the growth is on woody stems.

It would be better to start now as we can’t really predict the fall weather. If the soil temperatures cool off considerably, adjustment to new locations will be harder for the plants that are divided or moved. Fall goes so fast, get to the nurseries for more perennials for your garden. We can never have too many.

The Kemper Gardens are looking stellar. The weather has been cooperating with cooler temperatures and rainfall just when the soil is drying out. However, the incredible labor force taking care of the gardens is the real reason it looks so good. The staff is absolutely the best ever and takes great pride in their areas of responsibility. Self motivation prevails and the creativeness they exhibit is growing by leaps and bounds.

Equally amazing is our volunteer staff. We have about 25 folks who come in on a regular basis, usually three hours a week and garden with us. Some are Master Gardeners , others are not. They come from all walks of life and have some extra time to give to us during the week. Not only do they labor in sun or shade, sometimes they bring us food! It doesn’t get any better. Many enjoy the social aspects of working in a group, while others like to work alone in the solitude of the garden. They all share a love of nature and see the beauty of gardening for their own personal reasons. We are very fortunate to have volunteers and pout when they cannot come.

Where did all of that wonderful moisture go so quickly? Our soil is quite dry in all of the beds as well as in my home garden. It is difficult to remember that cooler temperatures do not lessen the need for moisture for very long at all. The surface plants such as groundcovers, perennials and annuals are the first to show dry soil stress. Trees are somewhat more forgiving.

Also, the ideal growing conditions of last spring could have contributed to excessive root growth. Extra roots are harder to keep alive when the moisture content drops in the soil. We are just now noticing wilting shallow-rooted plants in the Native Shade Garden. This particular garden doesn’t get irrigated near as much as some of our other gardens as it is fairly shaded. Never the less, it is dry and we did irrigate it for a few hours last night.

It is said that evening is not the desired time to water your plants but we have to choose between the plant watering time or soak our visitors. In the home garden, early morning is definitely a more advantageous period. The moisture lasts longer and the initiation of disease is less as the sun dries the moisture on the leaves in the daylight.

This is certainly powdery mildew season and quite predictable with present muggy weather conditions. The zinnias still look quite good for right now, but Monarda, Phlox and Coreopsis have a whopping case of powdery mildew. We have purchased a product called Ultra Pure Oil. It is listed for use on ornamentals for powdery mildew control. So far, so good. We have used it twice and the phlox looks better. This product is non-toxic and does not contain sulfates that might burn the leaves in hot weather. I still would apply it in the evening or early morning and skip torrid afternoons. I will report later on the progress of recuperation on some of our most affected plants.

We invite everyone to visit our fabulous annual trial gardens. The beds are so colorful and are growing vigorously. All of the flowers are in divided beds by the name of the grower or breeder. We are fortunate to exhibit the best of new plant introductions for our homeowners. One of the displays is the American Award Bed with six introductions that one can vote on. All of the plants are looking wonderful. It is difficult to pick just one favorite. One other bed is the All America Selection bed where winners of the prestigious award are displayed each summer. They are hand picked by our staff and myself as being the best of the best for the St. Louis area. Many plants stand out but one in particular is Gomphrena ‘Fireworks’, a tall blousy purple flower. Another selection is an annual Pennisetum ‘Jade Princess’ with yellow leaves and indescribable plumes (see photo). There are several new petunias. One very different cultivar is ‘Pretty Much Picasso’ a smallish flower edged in green with a purple middle section. The trial plants are evaluated by the staff three times during the growing season. They are judged on heat tolerance, growth rate, attractiveness and production of flowers, if appropriate. I urge everyone to come and see the trials. And, I hope I have tempted you with a couple of the standouts to inspire you to choose some of these winners for your own home gardens next year.

In our efforts to simplify our lives and gardens, summer weather reminds us that tending our green spaces is still necessary. Minimal attention may include keeping the garden watered and removal of dead or dying material consistently, especially slimy bulb foliage that has long since ripened. Many problems can be minimized or avoided by not providing organic havens for plant eaters such as slugs and roly poly bugs to hide under and then come out in the evening to devour our ornamentals.

Don’t attempt to transplant much of anything, as it is very difficult for a moved plant to put down roots in hot soil that does not even cool off during nighttime hours. Wait until the dew dries before working in flower or vegetable beds, especially areas where green beans are growing.

It looks like a good tomato year with all the rain we’ve had but the contest is just beginning. At least, mulch around the base of the tomato as disease can be initiated by soil being blasted onto the leaves of the plants. Actually, drip irrigation is better as it waters the roots without wetting the leaves.

Note any tall plants that are flopping onto shorter ones and vow to give them a tall neighbor to lean on next year. If the plant blooms from late summer on, such as goldenrod or asters and tall sedums, early spring pruning can help keep the plants shorter. More minimal gardening hints to come ……………..

Garden when the sun isn’t beating on your back. Drink lots of water.

The Kemper Center is fully planted for the summer season. We planted 20,000 annuals! The ‘we’ part consists of 5 incredible staff members, some interns and many, many wonderful volunteers. They are so loyal and diligent and this is their garden as well as ours. Their work is so appreciated, words seem inadequate.

We are now busy mulching to keep the weeds down. The trial gardens are looking good, but we sure could use some more sunshine to help them grow. Our entrance display has a Victorian theme with our beautiful iron urn planted with the same idea.

Vegetables are doing nicely with many heirlooms for Henry Shaw’s era. We hope that they will last all summer as many are not disease resistant.

Our new Apple Allee design and implementation of Pachysandra ‘Green Sheen’ and Carex ‘Ice Dance’ are coming along nicely and the area is much improved.

Come see our ‘Growing Up Green’ exhibit in the Kemper Childrens Garden. The theme shows the concept of wind power rather than using electricity, a solar fountain that stops the water when you put your hand over the panel and plants which may, someday, be used for fuel. Notice the green roof located on our little house as well as the rain barrel for the rain water run off. We hope to teach children from an early age that everyone can make a difference by growing up green.

The long awaited rain garden at Kemper has been planted. It is located on the north side of the Kemper building, across from the amphitheatre. The Kemper Center is dedicated to home gardening, so we wanted to build this feature in a manner that could be accomplished by the home gardener. This type of feature is rapidly becoming the sustainable practice for absorbing rain water rather that having it pour down the sewer. When the plants absorb the water, it is also purified of the less than pure elements so if the excess reaches the sewer system, it is not contaminating the municipal water system. A group of plants have been used that will tolerate periodic inundation followed by dry conditions later in the summer, when rainfall is at a minimum. We have used both native plants and good cultivars of plants not native to the metropolitan area. This results in a more ornamental display that the homeowner may be more likely to want to have in their garden.

We have selected this site because it has a significant slope where the runoff during rains comes from the front bed of Kemper and also across the driveway from the Children’s Garden. The water runs to a drain with overflow going to a lower drain, if necessary. For the moment, we have left the drains until we can be assured the rain garden will distribute the water and take the place of the drain. It would also be better, to leave the drain in place until the plants become somewhat established and we can count on the garden to absorb all of the free water. When we feel confident that the new garden is efficient, we will bypass the drains.

Please come visit this new feature and see if you might want to give the idea a try in your own home garden.

Now is an excellent time to divide perennials that have overgrown their allotted space. The spade we like best is one made of stainless steel that is all one piece and has a flat edge. You can stand on it and it won’t break. It needs to be sharp to accomplish the task at hand.

If you don’t want to save the wandering perimeter plants, simply dig them out and compost them. Or, you can replant these extra plants somewhere else. They have been through winter already and are vigorous.

If the plant is growing in a clump, you have two choices. Either, dig around the edge of the whole clump out from the leaves about 3-4 inches and lift the entire clump out of the ground. Turn the clump on its side and begin to cut it into as many pieces as you wish. Start cutting it at the root end and move up through the above growing parts. You now have more than one clump. If you need to put one back in the ground, set it at the same level as before you started to divide it and firmly press the soil back around the entire plant. Air spaces can occur if you press clumpy soil next to the severed roots. If the plant dries out, you will see wilted leaves around the circumference shortly.

Another method is to take your sharp spade and severe the plant into several parts while it is still in the ground. Then dig and lift at least half of the clumps and move them to a new home. Fill in the area where the clumps were removed with soil.

Take care to water the old clump and all the divisions after dividing. Spring rains may or may not reach the roots. One should always give plants a drink of water after they have been relocated or divided. The Garden is full of beautiful flowers. Don’t miss it.

Plants are popping out of the ground almost before our eyes. The gardening bug has sprung into action, for sure. Garden centers are bursting with all sorts of treasures for our planting. However, it is good to remember that it is spring, not summer.

Skilled personnel at garden centers should be able to tell you which flowers and veggies are appropriate to plant at this time of year. The fatality risk is high for plants that need our hot summers to prosper. Usually, nothing is gained by planting too early, unless you have a lot of trash bags or old sheets to cover the early-bird plantings on cold nights.

Right now is a good time to plant broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, carrots, potatoes, beets, lettuce and radishes. Onions are just right to plant from bunches called ‘sets’. Snap peas are easier that regular peas in our climate, but if spring is long enough, they also will thrive. No, tomatoes, way too early. Peppers love hot weather as well as eggplant so wait until the soil warms before planting.

Spring flowers such as pansies, calendulas, linaria, sweet alyssum, creeping phlox and sweet William are fine for cool weather. Others such as marigolds, vinca, pentas and of course, all tropicals are sensitive to cold soil and chilly air temperatures. They may be stunted if subjected to unfavorable weather for their culture.

House plants should be left indoors for several more weeks or more. I know that it is a very good day when they finally go out but we just must wait.

Spring is relatively short here, so enjoy every minute. We saved a robin this morning. She got tangled in some nest material and was hanging from the nest. We hurriedly carried her in and cut the string around her body. She rewarded us with trying to bite out of fear, but was then able to fly immediately away. Some days are better than others. This is a good one.

A most wonderful fragrance is prevalent as you stroll along the paths of the Garden. It is coming from the many different boxwood (Buxus) planted all over. You can gaze closely at the flower and see the tiny creamy flowers along the upper parts of the stem. The sweet scent is fleeting, enjoy it soon. Yes, they bloom. No, the flowers don’t have a disagreeable odor associated with cats.

Our beehive is very active and bees will visit the small blooms on warm sunny days as a prelude to more yummy treats awaiting them as other attractive plants begin to bloom in earnest.

Aside from providing early season nectar for the bees, boxwood (Buxus) has become a stalwart of evergreen selection in our Midwest climate. Thanks to plant breeding, we have a choice of cultivars that grow well in our gardens. Buxus sinica var. insularis ‘Wintergreen’, Korean Boxwood was the best choice for many years. The winter color is light green and not very attractive. The newer cultivars such as Buxus ‘Green Gem’, ‘Green Mountain’ and ‘Green Velvet’ are so beautiful. The leaves stay a rich green and can be used in quite exposed areas even during the cold winter months. Buxus microphylla ‘Morris Midget’, a Plant of Merit, stays about two feet tall and isuseful as a hedge or specimen. For the adventurous gardener, a tiny cultivar ‘Kingsville’ is barely a foot high. Collectors, rock gardeners and outdoor railroad buffs love to use small cultivars which can look like tiny trees or shrubs.

Hold off any trimming until after the first flush of new leaves has grown. They can then be pruned to eliminate any winter damage and errant stems. Well aerated soil with average moisture helps encourage good growth. A good source for unusual boxwood is Arrowhead Alpines. Most local nurseries stock the best varieties.

Resist the temptation to uncover certain plants or prune them back just yet. It will be March in a few days but it is still winter. If a plant has spent flower stalks, they can be removed. Also, wet, mushy foliage such as last years hostas can be removed to increase air circulation around the crown.

Plants that can be pruned are those that bloom on this year’s wood, such as Hydrangea arborescens and Hydrangea paniculata. Just nip the spent flowers off others such as Hydrangea quercifolia and the old fashioned big leaf hydrangea, Hydrangea macrophylla. Knowing which cultivar of this species is necessary to make the decision as to how far down the stems can be cut without loss of this year’s flowers. If you don’t know the cultivar, do not cut it back at all, except for the spent flower s and a tiny piece of their stem.

Most viburnums bloom on last year’s wood, so leave them alone. If the Japanese spiraeas have become gangly, they can be pruned back to a pleasing shape now.

Then there are the ornamental grasses. As they start to blow around, think about cutting them down. The best idea is to tie them up like corn stalks, cut them back to about 4-6 inches and haul the bundle off all in one piece. This saves time picking up pieces all over the Garden.

Perennials that have been left alone all winter may still need their own leaves to protect the crowns for awhile longer. You can begin to remove any leaf litter that has accumulated on them. But wait a couple of weeks at least before exposing the crowns to the rest of winter.

‘Woody’ perennials such as perovskia and caryopteris should remain untouched for at least three weeks. At that time, cut them back to about 18 inches They will be more vulnerable to the rest of winter, if pruned too soon.

Generally speaking, wait for the emergence of new leaves on most herbaceous plants before jumping the gun with removal of old foliage. If the old leaves are not really protecting the crowns, one could go ahead and clean them out. It is hard to hold back when we are out gardening on warmish days, particularly after a long cold winter. Come to the Garden to appreciate the waning of the season by treating your senses to the outstanding display of Hamamelis, the witch hazels.

Warmer winter temperatures tease us with tidbits of spring in our Midwest climate. More than just a tidbit is the exquisite flowers of Helleborus. This lovely plant normally blooms in mid- to late winter. Hellebores are best grown in organically rich, humusy, well-drained soils in part shade to full shade. The fast growing clumps can be divided in spring.

The plants are mostly evergreen, even in very cold winters. However, depending on the species and the severity of the season, some leaves may not look stellar right now. During warm spells, visit your Lenten rose and nip off the worst leaves at their base. I would suggest leaving a few compromised leaves, if that is all you have. They still need some protection but really can stand very cold temperatures, but do not like wind. Be careful not to snip off any emerging flower buds coming from the center of each plant. What a shame that would be.

There are several species that do quite well here. Helleborus orientalis is probably the one you see most often in the nurseries around town. It is a Plant of Merit and the Perennial Plant Association’s Plant of the Year for 2005. The whole leaves with pointed lobes are most attractive. Nodding flowers come in shades of greenish white, pink to deep maroon depending on cultivar.

Helleborus foetidus has fine cut foliage and clusters of apple-green nodding flowers. It is the longest bloomer and sometimes blooms in December.

Helleborus niger commonly known as the Christmas rose, has white flowers that turn pink or red-pink with age. Many of the flowers can be double. The leaves are thick and leathery but do not persist totally unscathed in our winters . They are reduced in number to one per stalk. A large array of Helleborus strains are appearing in catalogs. Some of them have the most beautiful colors of flowers and are the result of crossing different species. One can easily see why they are so popular with plant breeders. Variations also occur as seedlings from different species in our own gardens. Look for them and perhaps you will see a lovely new color of flower yourself.

By the time you read this, the snow will more than likely be gone. This a good thing but the best news is that we really needed the moisture for our in-ground plants. We noticed that the ground was just like dust in areas where shrubs are planted. It is hard to imagine that it was that dry. Snow offers a slow percolation of moisture into the ground.

The bad news is that we have to shovel the snow on the paths all over the Garden. Our horticulture staff is absolutely the best and strive very hard to make the Garden walkable. We would love to leave the Garden pristinely undisturbed for all to see and feel the solitude of muffled noises lost in the layers of white. However, this is not practical or safe. Still, there are glorious picture opportunities at every turn. This is truly a Garden for all seasons, winter being no exception. It is hard not to appreciate the serenity of the season, even if you have a shovel in your hand.

The ugly comes a few days later when the color of the day is black. That is black snow, on the sides of walks, buildings but most of all, there is the gray snow on the highway. Not a pretty picture. Cars have this black stuff hanging from the body and washing them would be of no avail for a few days, anyway. Take heart, the sun will warm and wonderful streams of liquid will make their way off all of the hard surfaces.

Besides, we need to get out and smell the early witch hazels which are starting to bloom. They laugh at the snow and give us a glimpse of spring that we all need.

Every year at this wintery time, I start yearning for green gardens. My background includes working in the Climatron/Temperate House where gardening never ceases. As I grow older, I do treasure the quiet time of plant dormancy outside. I can read all of the new catalogs and see what new treasures they have to tempt me.

The Kemper Center Gardens spotlight new plants and try to keep up with so many new introductions. Spring Meadow/Proven Winners Color Choice Shrubs, a wholesale source remains one of the premier sources for new woody plants. This year they feature some promising developments for our gardens.

A new Buddleja (yes, it is spelled with a j)! Buddleja davidii ‘Miss Ruby’ sounds just lovely. It is a compact size of 4-5 feet with vivid rich pink blooms, said to be unlike any other Buddleja. It will be a welcome addition to our Bird Garden.

Clethra alnifolia ‘Caleb’ VANILLA SPICE is advertised as having extra large flowers and double the size of other Clethra flowers. This will be a worthy advancement as the flowers of Clethra are fairly small compared to the size of the shrub. It can get fairly tall at 8 feet.

Another selection is Hydrangea arborescens ‘Abetwow’ INCREDIBALL. The description calls the stems ‘beefy’. I hope so as the blooms are said to be 12 inches across and four times as many as ‘Annabelle’. Those beefy stems are said to keep the plant from flopping unlike its’ predecessor. The height is similar at 4-5 feet.

We could use a new Spiraea as it is such a useful plant for the front of the landscape and it looks like we have one. Spiraea japonica ‘Galen’ DOUBLE PLAY ARTIST sounds wonderful. It has blue-green foliage that emerges a rich purple red. The flowers are a pure pink that is supposed to be different than other Spiraeas .The mature height is 24-30 inches tall and as wide.

Since they are new, it may take a bit of time for your local nursery to get them. There are more new plants offered, but perhaps this number will be enough for your reading enjoyment right now. You can see more at www.SpringMeadowNursery.com.

Pinus virginiana ‘Wate’s Golden’ is a fine example of the diversity of needle color within the plant group of evergreens. The needles turn a rich golden color for the winter months and dispel the assumption that all evergreens are just that- green.

The specimen in the Kemper Vegetable Garden (We have a test area in the northwest corner for new plants of all kinds) is about twenty feet high and has been with us since the opening of Kemper Gardens in 1995. This uncommon pine has been given a less than stately common name of scrub pine, attesting to the wide range of soils that it will thrive in. Clay or poor soils are not a problem.

The habit is loosely pyramidal with a fairly open habit. We prune our specimen to fit in a rather tight space. Some of us may have small gardens which can only accommodate trees that can be selectively pruned to maintain size such as this pine.

The nativity of the pine is at the foot of the Appalachian Mountains. We positioned it against a north wall for protection. It has made it through every winter since planting and I am convinced that it will grow in our area as long as it is not planted in the middle of a windy field.

Visit our Kassabaum Dwarf Conifer Garden in front of the Climatron this winter. You will see a very large array of conifer colors as well as golden selections. Some turn a plumy color in the winter while others are blue all year. Green does not aptly describe all of the many hues of the green colors present. Evergreens come to center stage in the dormant winter season of other deciduous plants. They add to the ‘bones’ of the garden as well. Treat yourself to a winter visit. Maybe you have room for one or more of these beauties to enhance your garden all year long.

The Kemper Gardens are all dressed up for the winter season. The subtle shades of browns, golds, and cream sparkle, even on days when the sun is hiding behind gray clouds. Electric holiday lights cannot come close to the beauty nature provides during this season.

We do not clean the garden of all foliage as some plants need it for their own protection. Many have special beauty of form, color, and even seed heads which we leave for the winter. Beneficial insects can sometimes live over the coldest winter in the stems of plants. To eliminate the stems is to limit the survival of insects for natural control in our gardens. What a good excuse for just leaving the garden be.

The grasses blow in the wind with creamy inflorescences (flowers). The prairie drop seed, (Sporobolus heterolepis) bends under the weight of snow and ice and looks like a garden of sparkling open umbrellas. Crepe myrtles stand erect and show off their round seed heads that belong in a bouquet of other natural wonders. Quite a few perennials have attractive foliage such as amsonia, hellebores and carex that add to the palette of color for many autumn into winter weeks.

I think I like the Prairie Garden best in the winter. It is resplendent in beauty with various textures and tawny colors. It provides a cozy hiding place for birds, small animals and who knows how many other smaller critters that are hunkering down for the duration of the cold weather.

Seeds are abundant and provide food for our birds. We let the plants alone and the birds go through the sequence of what to eat first, sometimes based on availability and also for sugar content.

Winter will persist and finally take a toll on some of the plants that we have left alone. We will remove the foliage as they start to collapse. Enjoy the natural beauty of the season and Happy Holidays.

I have just come inside from the Kemper Gardens. The collective color of the plants, both herbaceous and woody is still outstanding. Of course the array of hues is more subtle than autumn, but still beautiful. Winter is the best time to view the form of trees. The structure of the trees anchors the landscape to the ground.

Right now is the right time to mulch any bare ground in your garden. This will keep the ground cold and the plants dormant during any warming periods. We do not want to see any new leafy growth during a winter thaw. Right now is also exactly when you probably don’t feel like doing this chore. I don’t either. I would rather sip tea and listen to Holiday carols. So you can leave the garden alone for right now and not cut off their withered leaves. The foliage will help protect the herbaceous material from the unusually cold temperatures. Actually, we have had a good long period of gradually cooling temperatures which acclimates the plants much better to their long chilly dormant period.

If you do mulch your garden now, cut back heavy leaves that could smother. Do not cover the crowns of almost all plants that die to the ground for winter. The plants can stay too wet and many can be lost because of this winter moisture. Shrubs can be covered right up to the woody base. However don’t cover the trunks of trees deeply or you will make a perfect winter home for rodents. They will nibble on the trunk and can cause major damage to the tree.

Maybe we will have warmer temperatures after the Holidays to accomplish these gardening tasks or perhaps snowfall which provides a steady temperature around the plants and acts as a blanket. If you do complete these necessary chores at this time, you will feel so accomplished and frozen. Have a hot drink and toast yourself for being such a good gardener.

Please visit the Cornelia Sunnen Backyard Garden to see the ‘Mary Potter ‘ crabapple. It is a wonderful plant for quite a few reasons. One is the fall display of fruit which is incredible. The bright red crabapples cover the whole canopy, bringing their cheery color to the landscape.

This crabapple has the most architectural form of most of the plants within the Kemper Gardens. The weeping habit of the small tree (10-15’) is pleasing in the summer when draped with leaves, but in the winter, the bare branches create a sculpture. We grow three together as a hedge but one alone is quite a specimen. The tree is not pruned to achieve this weepy look, but occasionally we nip off any wispy branches that would detract for the pendulous habit.

It is easily under-planted with a shade loving ground cover and also can be planted with flowering bulbs for more drama in the spring. The flowers occur in early April with reddish pink buds and then, fragrant white flowers. The foliage remains fresh and green all growing season as it is resistant to many of the problems associated with older cultivars of crabapples. This lovely tree is hardy to zone 4. It appreciates evenly moist soil in full sun but is not that fussy as long as the drainage is good.

The Backyard Garden is filled with specimens that show off their best beauty in the winter. After all, our gardens can be attractive all year long, even winter.

Discover the all season beauty of oak leaf hydrangea. Right now, fall leaf color ranges from yellow to dark purple, a stunning combination. The persistent flowers are now brown and add to the autumnal look. One cultivar, Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Brido’ SNOWFLAKE has panicles of flowers that are at least ten inches long.. I have been watching it all year and it is so beautiful. It reminds me of a cascading waterfall, both in full bloom with white flowers and now when they are brown. Other cultivars are also very nice. This hydrangea thrives in part shade but will tolerate full sun as well. It is very hardy and with maturity becomes a specimen for the garden. After the leaves fall, the exfoliating (peeling) tan bark is revealed and remains a focal point for the winter season. Do not cut it back in winter as the flowers are borne on old wood and you will lose them with late pruning. Instead, wait until after the shrub flowers in late spring if you need to prune any branch. The plant is not for very formal gardens as the form is loose and curvy.

I have a mature specimen in my own garden which is about six feet tall and have it under planted with a spring bulb, Eranthus hyemalis (Winter Aconite) - a good marriage.

In spring, remove the tattered flowers just above their origin. Normally you can see the two green leaves emerging on the stem just below this point. Add this low-maintenance shrub to your garden for all-year glory.

There are still a handful of stunning plants in our gardens at Kemper that merit attention for late blooms.

Tatarian aster ,Aster tataricus‘Jindai’ is a smaller version of the species. It is perfectly vertical with beautiful lavender flowers. It waits until now to bloom to be the queen of the late season. The painted lady butterflies would certainly agree as it is covered with them. We do not prune it back in early spring to increase more compact growth. It really does take care of itself.

Helianthus ‘First Light’ can be seen from a block away. It also refuses to show its brilliant yellow flowers until later on in autumn. It can be a bit floppy but is stunning next to the aster above and uses it for support.

The next plant is Chrysanthemum ‘Single Apricot’, a favorite for many years in the garden. The translucent quality of the apricot daisy flower is magnificent. The color is very unusual for this time of year and this makes it all the more wonderful.

Visit the Kemper Center and enjoy the various ornamental grasses located throughout the gardens.

They are all at their peak right now, exhibiting many shades of autumn colors in their inflorescences (flowers). We are so fortunate to have so many specimens from which to choose in the nursery trade.

We have to divide all every spring - they are vigorous growers. None of the grasses should be cut down until late winter when they literally start falling apart and blowing around in the wind. They need their own foliage to protect the clumps from the cold.

Some are quite large and would not work in a small garden. One of my favorites is Panicum virgatum ‘Dallas Blues’, the native switch grass. This plant has rich blue foliage all summer and then bursts forth wonderful blue-green inflorescences for the autumn season.

Another wonderful choice would be Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind. It stands very erect and works well along other tall plants. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’ looks best where the sunlight illuminates the foliage either morning or evening.

Mulygrass, Muhlenbergia capillaris is not completely hardy here, but still worth trying as the pink clouds of blooms are stunning. Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Cassian’s Choice’ is a low variety, loved by birds for cover and seeds. There are many more, too numerous to mention. Come see for yourself the autumn splendor.

The Kemper Center outside staff will be installing our pansy trial beds in the next two weeks. Every year we trial around 50 different violas to test performance over the winter months. Many series today, have been bred with this attribute in mind. There are very few that actually do not persist after winter.

Their winter appearance is not attractive, but the root systems are what counts at this time of year. We are not concerned with their appearance during the cold winter but look forward to spring when they begin to grow. The violas that endure winter grow leaps and bounds with the warming temperatures of spring. You don’t have to be a professional to recognize the fall planted varieties contrasted with those planted in the spring. It usually takes all spring if even then, for the spring planted varieties to have a mature, full appearance. The winter survivors are bushy and floriferous.

Each year new varieties of violas are selected and it is unbelievable how many there are from which to choose. Please visit our trial beds in late October to see them as late fall and winter approaches. Watch this same area during winter as they hunker down and then burst into bloom next spring.

If you choose to follow this example, make sure they are well watered going into winter and if they are loose in the ground, firm the soil around the little plants during winter thaws.

September is the perfect time to plant or divide peonies. They can be left undisturbed for many years. However, peonies that have diminished bloom because of encroaching shade or have been located in the same spot and are now giant clumps are best moved or divided now.

To move, cut the stems to the ground and carefully dig around and under the plant. Peony foliage should not be composted to stop the spread of any fungus present on the leaves. Retain as much of the root system as possible.

Division requires additional steps. After digging the plant, remove loose soil from the root system. Divide the clump into sections, with at least 3-5 eyes (fleshy protrusions that are like pink noses and are the shoots for next year), with a good portion of the roots.

Peonies like to grow in full sun and well drained soil. Dig a hole large enough for the plant. Place in the hole so the eyes are only 1-2 inched below the soil surface or they will be reluctant to bloom profusely. Backfill the hole and water thoroughly. Plants should be placed 3-4 feet apart. Mulch the first year to prevent freezing and thawing of the plant due to fluctuating temperatures over the dormant season.

Transplanted peonies may not bloom well the first spring. Sometimes it takes 3-4 years to perform well.

We have a nice display of annual milkweed- Asclepias curassavica in the Kemper Plant of Merit bed in the Experimental Bed. However, many of the leaves have holes in them. If you observe the plants closely, you will see Monarch butterfly larvae munching away on the plant. We all look forward to this time of year when the Monarchs swarm to our plants, lay their eggs and the emerging caterpillars begin the eating frenzy stage of their life cycle.

Ten days later , they start to shed and eat their skins, five different times as they grow. They are naturally green silk machines and begin to form chrysalises from silk to finish this stage of complete metamorphosis. The pupa starts out a green color and evolves to the bright orange and black coloration of the butterfly within. The new butterflies emerge from the pupa and sit quietly absorbing the warm sunlight to strengthen their wings. Upon achieving wing rigidity, the butterfly begins the first flight. More on the migration of this wonderful creature in weeks to come.

‘Hillbilly’. This is an heirloom tomato grown in West Virginia since the 1800’s. It is a huge orange-yellow beefsteak type , streaked and mottled in shades of red and pink. It is indeterminate, which means it just keeps on growing and growing and growing.

Last Saturday, I was one of six judges at the Great Tomato Challenge , sponsored by Nature Sweet Tomatoes , here at the Garden. 169 people entered their tomato in hopes of securing a monetary prize and the honor of first place. Small cherry tomatoes are judged separately and the winner unfortunately, was entered under the name of ‘cherry’ tomato. Too bad.

Three tomatoes of the same cultivar are submitted and the juice from them is extracted and tested for sweetness by the brix index. This is accomplished by a refractometer , which measures the density of plant juices and the degree of sweetness. All the tomatoes are tested and the judges only taste the top four in each of the two categories. ‘Hillbilly’ won by a good margin and the gentleman who won, just beamed.

This is such a fun event and conducted by the Nature Sweet Company who travel all over the country with the tomato tasting show. It is so well organized and our visitors love it. The Garden only came in second for number of entries after Louisville, Kentucky.

We finally began harvesting tomatoes in the Kemper Vegetable Garden. The first one to ripen was ‘Celebrity’, followed by ‘Pink Girl’ Big Boy’ and First Lady II. The plants have grown well but the size of the fruit is much smaller than normal. Little cherry tomatoes are just starting to ripen. Planting occurred at the normal time but the weather remained cool. Tomatoes like it warm and normally grow so well in this climate.

To give them a boost, fertilize when the tomatoes are the size of a golf ball and again when the fruit starts to ripen. Use a fertilizer with the middle number, which is phosphorus, that is larger than the first number, which is nitrogen. Feeding is even more important if you are growing tomatoes in a container, as they have so little room to draw on for nutrients. Whenever it stops raining and you see the need to water, make sure the plants do not dry out. Tomatoes much prefer steady even moisture rather than being soaked and allowed to dry out between waterings.

Check Mobot.org for other pest and diseases of this popular plant. Go to Gardening Help . Click on IPM Management, type in “tomato” and there you are.

Many gardeners may be unfamiliar with this blousy beautiful shrub. This underutilized treasure is at its peak bloom right now. It is located just west of the dry stream bed and accessible by veering east of the main path flanked with the classic bottle brush buckeye planting. Also, growing with this lovely specimen is Hydrangea paniculata ‘Little Lamb’. The two shrubs have intertwined their blooms and make a super plant marriage.

The shrub tops out at 10 to 15 feet tall but can be kept somewhat smaller by cutting it back in the spring. In the coldest winters, it may even die back to the ground as well. It blooms on new wood so blooms will not be sacrificed with this pruning procedure or the coldest temperatures.

It is supposed to cascade to the ground and the flowers develop on almost every branch. The grape colored panicles are its greatest attribute and start blooming from the bottom up in early summer. The leaves are silvery on the back and sparkle in the wind.

It is called many common names but chaste tree is what we hear most often in the nursery trade. In its native habitat of the Mediterranean and western Asia, Monks ingested the berries for maintenance of chastity. For that reason, it is also called Monk’s pepper.

The Jenkins Daylily Garden is at its very best this week. Like so many other flowers this year, the blooms are just enormous. This garden is filled with the various kinds of daylilies such a species, tetraploids (which have more chromosomes and feel rubbery), as well as spiders with thin, long petals. (my favorite). The labeling system is excellent.

The genus Hemerocallis means ‘beautiful for a day’ and this refers to the fact that each lovely flower only lasts that long. It helps the overall appearance if one can remove the spent flowers as they fade.

It is interesting to note that some cultivars are re-blooming while others exhibit their unbridled glory only once during the growing season. Cultivars that bloom only once can be rejuvenated by cutting off all of the foliage after bloom. The plant is then triggered to send up a whole new set of attractive foliage for the rest of the growing season. Many who have grown daylilies will appreciate this procedure and give up pulling off old brown leaves one by one over the next month or so.

Almost all colors are represented and mixing these beauties with other perennials adds a cheery note to any garden.

This season’s emergence of the Japanese beetle has been observed within the last week. Individual metallic green beetles with hard, copper brown wing covers live about 30 to 45 days with activity over a four to six week period. They decline in late July but some are found as late as September. It is too soon to tell if there will be a plentiful population. The Japanese beetle, commonly known as the jitterbug is a serious pest to roses, grapes, cannas, and crape myrtles as well as other plants. Odor and location in direct sun seem to very important for plant selection. They usually feed in groups, starting at the top of the plant, working downward. Adults feed on the upper surface of foliage, chewing the tissue between the veins. This gives the leaf a skeletonized appearance.

During the larval stage, this insect lives in lawns and other grasslands, where it eats the roots of grass, During that stage , it is susceptible of a fatal disease called milky sport disease , caused by a bacterium called milky spore. The USDA developed this biological control and is commercially available in powder form for application to lawn areas. Standard applications take form one to five years to establish maximum protection against larval survival.

Research has shown that the traps containing a pheromone attractant bring in more beetles than without a trap and have fallen into disfavor. Natural repellents include catnip, chives, garlic and tansy as well as the remains of dead beetles. Tolerance of small populations is certainly a consideration. For other controls please consult the Garden website--- and consult the Pest Management tracker.

Do your azalea plants seem off color? (mottled leaves, eventually turning yellow) It may be that you have an infestation of lacebugs. They are about 1/8 inch long and have sucking mouth parts which take the chlorophyll right out of the leaves. The insect is found on the underside of leaves and visible to the eye, moving around when disturbed. Some azaleas are not affected while others turn almost completely white.

The first rule of management is close observation of the health and normal color of the azalea. Many underestimate the power of a hard stream of water as a method of pest control. But, many insects can be blasted off plants with a forceful stream of water. Repeat as needed for an organically-sound control. This also works well for mites and aphids as well.

Should the infestation continue, please consult our Integrated Pest Management information on lacebugs. for a complete treatise of the insect’s life cycle and further control methods. The web site is www.gardeninghelp.org. Click on Gardening Help and scroll down to Pest management. Type in “lace” and the explanation will appear.

Most azaleas and rhododendrons have finished blooming by now. If any need to be pruned, now is the correct time. In just a few weeks, all will begin forming flowering buds for next year. We are noticing that last year’s freeze is still taking a toll on the vigor of some azaleas. Remove all dead wood down to a living branch or ground level, if needed. Pruning stems down to a set of new leaves controls stray stems that may disfigure the shape of the plant.

They are very hungry right now. It is time to feed azaleas and rhododendrons. They like acidic soil conditions and an acidic water-soluble fertilizer such as Mir-acid or Peter’s Acid special are good choices. Granular fertilizer works more slowly but can be effective. Use a fertilizer intended for acidic plants such as gardenias, hollies, and azaleas. Follow directions on the box or bag for the correct amount. Water-in the granular fertilizer and do not cultivate under the plants as they are shallow rooted. The plants should be mulched with pine mulch, if available. Otherwise leaf mould or oak material will suffice.

Spring is in full swing and plants are growing by leaps and bounds!! Some late season bloomers can be reduced in size so they won’t flop as they flower. A few are Aster novae-angliae. Sedum spectabile, Solidago (tall varieties) and Boltonia. If they have grown to one third of their mature height, prune the main stems down by cutting half of the present growth off, right above a node (where the leaves are attached to the stem) . This will trigger the plant to develop side shoots which makes the plant bushier. When they grow one third of their mature height again, repeat the pruning procedure. One should probably discontinue this practice around the fourth of July. Your plants will be stockier, bloom at the normal time and eliminate staking.

The 2007-8 pansy trials results and top 10 picks are now online also. Note that two cultivars received a perfect score from all 6 reviewers.

The Flower trial garden at the Kemper Center is at its glorious peak of bloom. This wonderful kaleidoscope of color is provided by 50 different violas that were planted in the fall.

The many cultivars featured this year are evaluated by the Kemper staff for performance, winter hardiness, visual effect, and flower production.

Results of this evaluation will be compiled and reported on the Missouri Botanical Gardens’ web site. I will let you know when the results of our 2007-8 trials is available online. Here is the results from our 2006-7 trials: 2006-7 Pansy Trial Results

Different cultivars are tested each year. The purple, yellow, and white varieties always do better. They shoot up in spring and take on a mature look quickly. The red-pink violas do not seem to fair as well and always seem to grow slower. The smaller violas Viola cornuta always do better as well as they are closer to the old fashioned Johnny Jump Up. This year we have included many red and pink cultivars, hoping to glean out the ones that show hardiness and vigor.

Plant breeders have been very pro active with this genus (Viola) in recent years. We find that most cultivars come back, even in cold winters. They are now working on heat tolerance to climates, such as ours for summer performance. Are you ready for pansies in the hot months???

Interest in heirloom plants is growing by leaps and bounds! Watch for our own heirloom tomato test bed this summer in the Experimental Garden. We will be testing 12 varieties for taste and performance. Some may even be included in our Heirloom Vegetable Garden Display next year - which will highlight varieties that grew the last half of the 19th century - to help celebrate Missouri Botanical Garden’s sesquicentennial in 2009.

Fall planted pansies are vulnerable to heaving during winter warm spells. If they were not well rooted before the ground froze, they may pop up from the ground exposing those tender roots. Visit your garden as the weather warms and if this phenomena has occurred, gently press the whole plant back down. Make sure they remain moist, if a dry spell occurs. Visit the Kemper Center this spring to see our Viola trials. Pick some favorites for your fall plantings this coming year. Click here for last year's trial results.