Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Friday, November 20, 2009

February 26, 1842: Diligence

One of the most conspicuous objects in Chambery is the monument erected by the city to the memory of Benoit de Boigne, who died at a good old age in l830. Was the founder of a hospital, and benefactor of the charitable institutions of the place to the amount of 3,700,000 francs. He amassed this immense fortune in India in the service of the East India company and returned to his native place where he spent the remainder of his days and so highly benefited.

This is a rainy day and cannot see the few other places in the vicinity, that we intended. Taken my place in the diligence to leave at 11 tonight for Geneva. Strolled under the arcades of the principal street, went into the cathedral -the sculptures of the facade broken by the french in the revolution. Nothing particular to see in the interior. Time hangs heavy in a little town on a rainy day. The population of Chambery is said to be 15,000 -

Posted Online Thursday, November 19, 2009

February 25, 1842: Chambery and the Fountain St. Martin

Chambery is a neat little town, with several streets that may be called elegant. The first that I remember reading of it was in the confessions of Jean Jacques Rousseau - some ten years ago. He resided here in 1736 with Madme de Warrens, a lady who had formed an attachment to him. Took a guide and went to their place of residence - a retired little cottage about a mile from the town called Les Charmettes and where Jean Jacques says he passed the happiest days of his life.

The road to it is a narrow path shaded by trees and skirted by a little brook, along which going to Charmettes the first time Madme de Warrens found the Pervenche. As to the position of this abode it has been minutely described by the sentimental philosopher and things are nearly the same as where he left them - "un devant, un jardin - une vigne au dessus - un virger aa desscua - vis a vis un petit bois de chataigners - une fontagne a portee " etc. etc. - "jetais transports le premier jour que nous y coucharaes."

Opposite the house are the chestnut trees mentioned by J J and above is the hill where he passed such a happy day with Madme de Warrens. It overlooks the plain that extends to the South east of Chambery and in every direction are the finest views imaginable of mountains and vallys. I returned by a road above the house of which Rousseau speaks, "Je me levais tous les matins avant le soleil, Je montais par un virger voisin - dans un tres jolis chemin qui etait au dessus de la vigne et suivait la cote jusqua Chambery."

This leads to the fountain St. Martin, where there is another enchanting view. The town at my feet and in the distance a part of the Lake Du Bourjetwith, the ruins of a castle of feudal times on its borders. The horizon terminated by mountains more or less distant of which their outlines offer in several instances shapes most bold and fantastical. Got into one of those little carriages peculiar to Chambery and in which one sits sideways, like in an Irish jaunting car and drove to "Le Bout du Monde" - a singular and curious place.

A cul-de-sac formed by lofty precipices about an hours distance from the town and from which tumbles a cascade and several springs gush out from the rocks very picturesque. Were it not for a paper mill erected in the vicinity. Finished my days rambles at Chambery by going to the Chateau and Chapelle in the city, and to the different promenades which are not the least of the beauties of this capital of Savoy-

Posted Online Wednesday, November 18, 2009

February 24, 1842: Alps and Chambery

At the hour appointed was in the malle poste - 3 inside - for Chambery. Our route lay along the bank of the Dora and before dark were at the foot of the Alps & passed the little town of Rivoli. Unfortunately though moonlight, the night was misty so that we saw little or nothing of Alpine scenery. At 10 o'clock we were at Susa for the poste drives rapidly along and thence commences the ascent of Mount Cenis. For two hours we ascended on wheels and then passengers and luggage were transferred into covered sledges. As we approached the summit it blew a hurricane, several horses stopped and I put my head out a moment to look, but could see nothing but snow drifted up on all sides - with here and there a guide post sticking out.

Between one and two o'clock the height of 9,000 feet (as my guide book says) was attained, and thence commenced the descent. Galloping down to a milder and less boisterous climate and by six were refreshed by coffee and milk at the little town of Lanslebourg. From hence the road threads through a valley, which in some places contracts to a narrow pass and along a mountain stream called the Arc. A dreary prospect - snow covered mountains, bare rocks, a few stunted pines and here and there a dirty little village.

At Saint Jean de Maurienne the valley widens and is a town of several thousand inhabitants. Here we dined - the wine of the country excellent and the dishes very fair for such a remote place. The waiting maids fresh & rosy cheeked - the stout landlady, a large wen on her neck, wens and sore eyes very common. Passed a silver mine worked by government and at Aiguebelle iron works, both on a small scale.

Approaching Chambery the valley widens, and more fertile. Crossed the Isere, a tributary of the Rhone and a couple of hours after sunset arrived at our destination. And, here I am at the hotel de la poste writing this - when they shewed me the rooms. I inquired for a carpet, they replied it was not customary at Chambery and that here the Queen of Spain put up -

Posted Online Tuesday, November 17, 2009

February 23, 1842: Adieu Turin

The environs of Turin are considered well worth the attention of the traveler, but this is not the season for country and mountainous excursions. From Superga - crowned as its lofty summit is with the church, executed in commemoration of the victory of prince Eugena over the troops of Louis 14th - a century and a half ago.

Must be a lovely view in clear weather - this is the spire I saw from the top of the Duomo at Milan, a hundred miles distant have taken a place in the malle poste for Chambery, near Susa and Mont Cenis, to start at four and arrive in 27 hours . So adieu Turin and the river Po. Italy and the Apennines - when shall I see them again -

Posted Online Monday, November 16, 2009

February 22, 1842: Turin

Completed my tour round the city, nothing left of the walls but a small section contiguous to and supporting the gardens of the royal palace. Streams of water conducted from the Dora skirt the city and must be of great convenience as the women in Italy carry on their washing operations in the open air. Contiguous to a running stream, hospitals and charitable institutions abound in Turin as well as Milan and a kind of penitentiary at a short distance where juvenile offenders are employed in agricultural labour. Silence and separation at night are the punishments.

The present King Carlo Alberto is a great encourager of modern amelioration. Also, of the arts and sciences. Went through the museums of natural history and mineralogy, also of Egyptian, Grecian and Roman antiquities promenaded among the arcades and after dinner went in company with Mr. Laidler to the Teatro Diurno or equestrian circus. The female performers - young and handsome but not very active -

Posted Online Sunday, November 15, 2009

February 21, 1842: Gallery of Paintings

Turin has always possessed a few fine paintings of the old masters. They are now collected together and occupy 17 rooms in the old palace Madama. There is a Madonna of the divine Raphael, which is engraved and admired throughout Europe. The Samson of Guido, who in colour and fine proportions of the body has well represented the warrior of the Almighty. The Prodigal Son of Guercino, who in misery and humiliated would move any heart, much more a fathers, who with an air of forgiveness and affection receives him with open arms. There are several Titians with his miraculous colouring. Among them our Saviour at supper in Emmaus, also of Grambellino and Palma Vecchio, the one with his gracious forms and the other with his correct design.

Some of the magnificent compositions of Paul Veronese, particular Pharaohs daughter finding Moses in the bulrushes. Among others of Poussin, Bassano - Mouvermans, Nandyke etc. etc. Altogether forming one of the finest galleries I have seen in Italy. Was accompanied round by a servant of high majesty in scarlet livery, who well understood the subjects and their merits. Leaving the palace Madama - walked across the public square called Emanuele Filiberto to the fine stone bridge of one arch over the Dora, considered a fine specimen of modern bridge building - finished 1830-

Posted Online Saturday, November 14, 2009

February 20, 1842: Arrival in Turin

Before midnight passed the Sesio and town of Vercelli, and by five this morning at the Porta Vittoria of Turin. Day just began to break as we passed through the streets of the city - the public squares - the Castello - and the arcades had an air of grandeur in the twilight and silence of the early morning. Selected a comfortable room at the Hotel Feder and though had slept a little in the Malle Post, rolled myself in great coat and pelisse [three-quarter length coat] and took a two hours nap till nine o'clock. At eleven went to the Cathedral, where being Sunday his majesty was attending mass. His pew resembled a royal lodge at a theatre - sumptuously decorated with crimson and gold, and lighted with a profusion of tapers.

A tall straight man apparently past fifty reading very attentively. Near him knelt his son in military uniform and his young daughter in law, lately come from Vienna. After mass a sermon by a little old priest in Italian, who laid it on in right good earnest. The rest of the day spent in walking about - over the handsome bridge of the Po, to the Capuchin monastery on the hill a delightful view of the river and the city. The barefooted monk that accompanied us round the convent said he had worn the same stout cloth coat fourteen years. Dined at the table d'hote, a number of officers in uniform who spoke the Piedemontese dialect. Also a youngEnglish gentlemen son of Col. Cockburn. After dinner walked under the spacious arcades for which Turin is noted - some of the cafe's are splendidly furnished, being lent the theatres are closed -