Travels with Henry

June 1, 1842: To Boston

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Light winds and clear weather - passed Cape Spry at 7 in the morning, distance about 7 miles. From 8 last night to Noon run 160 miles - Wind N West -

This completes all of Henry Shaw's journal entries. The Missouri Botanical Garden invites you to further your knowledge of Henry Shaw and The Garden by viewing our archives. Thank you for reading!

May 31, 1842: Passing Nova Scotia

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Moderate breezes - at 6 in the morning saw the coast of Nova Scotia, at 10 saw Cape Spry. At one o'clock took a pilot aboard for Halifax harbour, which entered in a fog. Running up the harbour fired a salute and at 3 moored at Cunard wharf. The officer (Mr. Ambrose) landed the mails and government dispatches. Walked up to fort on the hill whilst the ship took in 300 tons of coal. At 7 the officers returned with the mail and we departed for Boston - Wind W to N W —

May 29-30, 1842: Travelling

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[May 29] Sunday light airs and thick foggy weather. At noon light airs with rain. At midnight - moderate breeze and cloudy. Performed divine service in the cabin. At 8 p.m. sounded on the whole bank, found bottom 55 fathoms. Dark gravel - wind variable - distance 246 miles. No longer seasick -

[May 30] Light winds and cloudy weather. At noon, moderate breezes and clear. Got masts and yards up, set all the sails. At midnight gale wind with rain. Wind from North to South east - distance 263 miles -

May 28, 1842: Iceberg

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Strong gales and cloudy weather. In the afternoon light breezes and foggy weather, passed several icebergs. On the edge of the grand bank of Newfoundland. Wind from West to N West - distance 167 miles. On approaching the ice the thermometer fell from 56 to 37 in the air and from 59 to 36 in the water - Farht 167 miles -

May 25-27: Weather

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[May 25] Strong breezes and cloudy - set fore and aft sails. At noon a brig in sight, wind N West - distance I78 miles - heavy swell and seasick again -

[May 26] Strong breezes and squally with rain and hail all the 24 hours - wind W N W to S West. Distance 171 miles heavy head swell - and cold -

[May 27] Fresh gales and rainy weather afterward clear with a heavy sea. Wind S West to West - distance run 175 miles all the time blowing fresh -

May 24, 1842: To Halifax

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Light breezes and clear weather in the morning - at noon strong breezes and rain. At midnight strong gales and cloudy - struck all the yards and topmasts to ease the ship Wind North to West N West. Heavy swell - 242 miles distance

May 21-23, 1842: Under the Weather

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[May 21] Fresh breezes with rain all day - at 4 in the morning. Four miles from Cape Clear. West & N N East - distance run from 4 o'clock to noon, 66 miles - sick in berth all day -

[May 22] Fresh breezes and cloudy- more moderate the rest of the day. Wind from N N E to N West. Distance run in 24 hours 210 miles - rather sick, divine service in Cabin -

[May 23] Moderate breezes and clear weather the whole 24 hours Wind V N W to North - distance 217 miles. Recovered from sickness - moment left violent -

May 19-20, 1842: Liverpool to Halifax

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[May 19] Left Liverpool in steamer Columbia Capt. Judkins - 1200 tons 440 horsepower at 5 p.m. Wind S.W. to N. West -

[May 20] Moderate breezes in the morning strong in the afternoon - at noon Soltees rocks 7 miles distant on the Coast of Ireland. At midnight off Kingsale light - two miles distant - Wind S.West to West N. West -

May 9-17, 1842: Addle Street

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[May 9] Walked from the West End to Addle Street and back. Called on Mr. Bennet - Surgeon Upper Baker Street. Dined at Neries in Regent Street. Excellent veal cutlette en papillotte. Dinner and half bottle postes 4. Met Mr. Lingnish in cheapside - the gentleman whose acquaintance I made in Constantinople last summer -

[May 10-17] Left London for Sheffield where spent near a week with my cousins at Fig Tree Hill -

May 7-8, 1842: Returning to London

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[May 7] Took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Lloyd this morning. Returning to London - as far as Bishop Stortford by coach and thence by railroad, which enters the city to shore ditch. Elevated on arches as high as the tops of the houses -

[May 8] Left Newman Street this morning at ten - breakfasted, dressed and went by omnibus to Turnham Green. Took leave of Cousin Miss Mary - -

May 6, 1842: Cambridge

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note: Mr. Shaw wrote two entries on May 6th

[Entry 1] With the letter of invitation in my pocket, from my friend the Rev. Martin Inv Lloyd of Branches park Suffolk - took an inside place in the stage coach for New Market. Two very sociable and agreeable persons for company - a lady and gentleman going to Bury St. Edmonds, who informed me of the recent marriage of my friend the parson to a lady of near sixty and eight thousand a year. At N Market found a servant and pony phaeton waiting. An hours drive brought me to the seat of Mr. Lloyd in a Park of venerable oaks agreeably situated on a rising ground. Received with much affability by himself and lady in their princely mansion.

Walked about the gardens and park, and to see the horses, stables, dogs and carriages. Spacious grounds with fish ponds, gravel walks, rookery, with pheasants and hares playing about the meadows. A sumptuous dinner - turtle soup (mock) choice wines, ices and other delicacies. The company consisting of three country parsons and three ladies - Miss Trick who is on a visit to Mrs. Lloyd sat next me has resided in Paris ten years and traveled in every part of Italy. The party did not break up until past one o'clock - the Rev. Mr. Hill returning home with the assistance of a servant - -

[Entry 2] Mr. Lloyd took me to Cambridge in his carriage - a very handsome vehicle. Visited Johns College of which he is a member, and several others. Kings College chapel is a most beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture - a lofty arched roof of fretted stone. Was there during evening service, which is assisted by one of the most powerful organs of Europe. The promenade grounds and gardens are on the banks of the River Cam which runs back of the town and is crossed by a number of handsome stone bridges.

After walking about several hours partook of a cold elation. Stopped a few minutes at the museum now erecting - admirable for its magnificent Grecian facade and built by a legacy of Earl Fitzwillam. Got back to Branches Park a little before dusk, spent the remaining part of the evening conversing with Miss Frick on Italy - antiquities etc. A fine sensible girl -

May 3-5, 1842: The Tower of London

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[May 3-4] Called at Addle Street - took a skull at London bridge, struck with its immense arches and colossal construction. Rowed down to the Tunnel about a mile and a half below, passing large coal vessels in the river. The tunnel is a great curiosity and newly finished, but was not struck with its utility in proportion to the immense sum it cost - very deep and difficult of access. Rowed up the Thames again and landed at the Tower stairs. Visited the Tower, which for architecture is rather insignificant. The armouries contain specimens of ancient armour. Old Kings and nobles on horseback and accounted after the manner of their times. The ruins of the armouries burnt are shown, the standing walls and the remains of 200,000 stand of arms etc.

A strangely mingled heap of ruins — The crown jewel room contains four crowns - all glittering with diamonds, pearls, amethysts and sapphires. There are also orbs, chalices, scepters etc, all in gold, set with costly stones. The whole valued at three millions sterling were shown round by his majesty's yeomen, quaintly dressed in scarlet and velvet hats. Left the tower and proceeded on board one of the small steamers that ply on the River and for sixpence was conveyed from London bridge to Westminster. Entered the hall, several courts of Law were sitting in contiguous apartments but did not enter them. The abbey had more attractions, went in by the door at the poets corner, made the tour of the venerable edifice.

"Here, where the end of earthly things
Lays heroes, patriots, bards, and Kings"

A structure with which Englishmen have the strongest sympathies - as the national sepulcher of their country's heroes. Spent two hours looking lie monuments, which closed the days labour. In the evening went to Drury lane - McReady played in the tragedy of Gysippus -

[May 5] Visited Mad— Montrose as Mr. Simos directed me when at Venice. The fair Maria from Amsterdam and the brunette Louise from Paris fascinating and facile. Spent the evening with little Henry, his good natured (deaf) wife and pretty children -

May 1-2, 1842: Richmond

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[May 1] Dined at Turnham Green in comnany with Rev. W. Wood and little Henry Hoole. Walked back to town with Henry, fine young man with wife and four children - salary under a hundred a year -

[May 2] Wrote to Sister Sarah from Halifax Steamer. Took omnibus at St, Pauls Church yard and went to Richmond - crossed the Thames by Putney bridge and in returning by the Hammersmith Suspension Bridge, a noble structure. Richmond Hill presents an extensive view of a richly cultivated country adorned with the mansions of the wealthy and trees of the most luxuriant foliage. The Thames in its serpentine course passed at the bottom of hill. Walked about the park for an hour where numbers were enjoying the fineness of the day as well as myself.
Dined at my hotel with little Henry. Afterward went to the Polytechnic institution and Very's Coffee house in Regent Street -

April 28-30, 1842: Letters

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[April 28-29] Received letters from England and Venice - walked in the parks and Regent Street. Saw Madm Nestris perform in the extravaganza of wild at Covent Garden -

[April 30] Engaged place in Halifax Steam ticket to sail 19th May. Saw the queen at the opera this evening, an ordinary face, nearly all the time secluded behind the curtain of her box. The piece performed was Torquato Tasso - a crowded house -

April 27, 1842: Opera

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Slept at Turnham Green last night, the mice noisy in the wall of the room. Accompanied Uncle and cousins to the Gardens of the Horticultural Society near Turnham Green nicely kept, flowers pretty and so on. Returned to the city in the evening at the Italian Opera. Ronconi sang and Carlotta Grisi danced, the Queen not there, price of admission to pit 8/6' seats inconvenient -

April 26, 1842: London

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Left trunk of books to be forwarded to Liverpool in bond and departed from Southampton by railroad to London, arrived in three hours. Put up at Collonade Hotel - Italian Opera House. Uncle James come and dined with me and accompanied him home to Turnham Green and saw Cousin Mary Hoole and Miss Pott, a young and interesting girl slender made and in thoughtful mood from the recent loss of her father -

April 24-25, 1842: Excursion

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At this season the steamers run several times a day to the Isle of Wight. Got up late had only time to get on board at the warf without taking breakfast. Found half a dozen gentlemen bound on a similar excursion to myself, some to land at Ryde and some at Cowes. In sailing down Southampton water admired the views. The new forest on one hand and Netley Abbey etc on the other. Enlivened by a mild spring sunshine. In a couple of hours arrived at East Cowes, for there are two towns - one on each side the Medina a river that divides the island in two parts. In the port of Cowes are some small fishing and coasting vessels, but few or none in the foreign trade at this time. From the steamer, transferred myself to a couch for Newport. In the interior of the island, had for company inside a young and modest girl, a native of the country. Before arriving at Newport there is an establishment called a Reformatory, for juvenile delinquents and the Albany barracks occupied by several companies of red coats. Breakfasted at the Bugle in Newport and hired a one horse vehicle called a fly to make the circuit of the Island at l8' per day. Beautiful weather and the drive from Newport to Yarmouth - agreeable but not very interesting.

Passed Carisbrooke Castle to the left - Yarmouth is a small town on the Solent Channel in width some two or three miles it never was of any importance, except that it sent two members to parliament before the reform act. Its population being only six hundred it was of course disfranchised from a small bastion on which are a couple of mortars had an interesting view of the Solent. At the entrance of which on a tongue of land is Hurst Castle and Light House. Symington on the low shore of Hampshire opposite to and five miles from Yarmouth - the superannuated old soldier that pointed out to me the various places shewed me also his little patch of wall flowers and roses. Coming out as accosted by several sailors with "Boat, Sir?"— when small craft appeared to be the only occupants of the mud filled port of Yarmouth. A few miles farther at Alum Bay descended the cliff and returning drove to the extremity of the island where there is a lighthouse and telegraph here the Needles - rocks are seen to best advantage. The cliff is many hundred feet high and frequented by flights of sea fowl. The inn that accompanied me to the point.

Shewed me the nests of the razor bills and the way they let each other down to get the eggs. His father fell over the cliff in a fog and was killed. From the Needles Light house the road runs on the top of Freshwater Gate. Dined and slept the only guest in the house. Continued the journey early in the morning, stopped at a little village called Brirton to breakfast. Entered the neat little old fashioned church, some quaint verses on the grave stones in the church yard - as

Nancy Ridett - Apr. 23rd 1827
In love she lived
In peace she died
Her life desired
But God denied

Elizg Chipp Mar l8l7
Grieve not for me my husband dear
Altho my body lieth here
Grieve not for me but comfort take
And love my offspring for my sake

A few hours drive brought me to Black Gang chine and St. Catherines Hill from whence the view extends over great part of the island. At the telegraph the men explained to me the signals made in announcing vessels. The Undercliff with a southern aspect and facing the sea, so called from its being protected from the north by a high ridge running parallel with the coast for several miles and considered the mildest climate in Great Britain. Resorted to on that account by numbers of invalids - Ventnor and Bonchurch are pretty villages as also is Shanklin, where I discharged the fly and went on to Ryde by the stage coach. At the end of the long wooden pier the steamer was waiting, which in half an hour landed me at Gosport and in another hour the rail road conveyed me to Southampton in time for a late dinner. This Isle of Wight excursion just occupying two days -

April 23, 1842: Portsmouth

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Connected with the London and Southampton railroad is a branch lading to Gosport, a little town on the opposite side of the harbour to Portsmouth. In an hour and a half I had traversed the thirty miles and was crossing the harbour to Portsmouth. The Bay has a fine display of England's wooden walls laid up in ordinary -

"Hail mighty haven justly famed
Land lock'd and free from danger -
By every gallant seaman named
Her majesty's bed chamber"

Portsmouth is surrounded with ramparts which now are probably useless except on the sea side. The suburb in which the government dock yard is situated is called Portsea. First purchased a pamphlet descriptive of this grand naval arsenal and other interesting objects of this port. Went on board Nelssons ship the Victory

"Memorial of that Glorious day
Till centuries are passed away
Still proudly to our children say
We fought at Trafalgar"

She lies anchored in the harbour - used as a receiving ship. The spot on her deck where the brave Nelson fell is marked with a brass plate.

Visited the royal yacht which lies a mile higher up the harbour. Beautiful vessel all glittering with gold and rich carving but never used. By two o'clock the dock yard workmen had returned to their work and was admitted accompanied by a policeman to view the different departments where everything is conducted on the grandest scale. The number of men employed even in these times of peace is near 3,000.

First looked in at the mast houses - largest sized masts are made of segments and hooped together. The rope house 1100 feet long, not so many men employed since the introduction of iron chains and cables. Rope yarns are turned by steam machine, the store houses for hemp and ropes are two magnificent brick constructions, as also very extensive rigging and sail lofts. The grand basin is connected with dry docks in which were several ships of war repairing, besides other docks and basins some of which are covered with large wooden roofs sheeted with copper. The very interesting machinery for saving - turning, boring & mortaring blocks was explained to me. These machines cost 50,000 and are the invention of Mr. Brunnell. The Thomas tunnel architect, the number made per annum 150,000 and four men make with the machinery as many as 50 men by the old method. In the copper mill they were melting and rolling copper into sheets for ships use. A first rate requires 5123 sheets to cover her bottom.

At the anchor forgo fifty men were hammering away at an immense anchor for 120 gun ship - weight 90 cwt. On the stocks are ships of the line, frigates ft steamers, all under wider spreading roofs, each roof costing 6000 pounds each. In the dock yard saw the post admiral Sir E Coddrington of Algiers memory - a fine hearty man of 70. Well pleased during the two hours visit to the dock yard. Walked up the high street, over the parade ground and on the ramparts of Portsmouth. Crossed the harbour and returned to a late dinner at my hotel at Southampton -

April 22, 1842: Winchester

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Took a seat in the first class cars and was transported to the ancient city of Winchester, which would now only rank among the towns of England as a large village. Its old Saxon and Gothic cathedral is in fine preservation and was the first object to which I directed my steps. The monuments it contains are curious and interesting, the tomb St. Swithin and Rufus son of William the Conqueror, also of Edmond the son of Alfred with an inscription in Saxon characters - l66l.

Bishop Fox collected the bones of the Saxon Kings and princes that had been thrown about by Cromwell's soldiery and deposited them in six mortuary chests. In one chest are the bones of pious King Edred 955, in another those of Onute. The earliest date are King Kinegils 641. There are number of monumental chapels in different parts of the church (in length 550 feet) as of Cardinal Banfort in his hat and red robes, Bishop Wykeham, who rebuilt the Cathedral and died in 1404, of Wayne fleet the founder of a college at Oxford.

Besides monuments ancient and modern to the number of several hundred, spent the remainder of the day in visit. St. Marys college, which educated classically some seventy young men, who when I went in were at prayers in the chapel and afterward at their amusements of crickets. This was founded and endowed in a princely manner by the good bishop Wykeham. In a verdant valley about a mile from Winchester lies the hospital of St. Cross, a mighty and venerable rile that has existed for seven centuries and supports 13 old infirm men and in former times many more. It was built and endowed by Henry de Blois, bishop of Winchester and brother of King Stephen. One of the aged inmates shewed me round the gardens, chapel, etc. Returned to dinner to Southampton - well pleased with the days excursion to Winchester.

April 21, 1842: Passage To England

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At daylight this morning our steamer had neared the coast of England, the wind and waves abated, as also our seasickness. Rose with a clear stomach, well pumped out, replenished with a breakfast of cold beef and eggs. Passed the isle of Wight - Portsmouth - the Victory Lord Nelsons flag ship lying in the harbour, Spit-head and the soot where the Royal George was sunk some fifty years since.

At nine, landed at the Pier of Southampton. Took up my quarters at the Dolphin Hotel in a handsome part of the town called High Street. The town is clean and elegant houses in the suburbs. Took a fly and dove to Netley Abbey - venerable ruins. Returned to dinner at the Dolphin, five evening, walked an hour or two in the High Street above the Platform and on the water side -

April 20, 1842: Ingouville

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Rambled out of one of the gates of Havre this morning to the top of the hill beyond Ingouville. A fine, clear day with the wind from the north and to see the house in the rue de la Corderic where was born Bernardin St. Pierre, the author of Paul and Virginia, who died in l8l4.

At seven embarked on the Steamer Ariadne for Southampton, and bid farewell to the shores of La Belle France. After passing Cap la Heve had the wind in our teeth - a horrid motion that sent most of us to our births to settle accounts with David Jones -

April 19, 1842: Havre

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Havre has no antiquities or objects connected with history. A Liverpool or New York in miniature - spacious and secure docks, quays covered with bales of cotton, bags of coffee, piles of logs wood etc. A great coal trade with Newcastle for the supply of the manufacturers and steamers that run to different ports on the coast of France, the Baltic, etc.

After breakfasting in the salle a manger of the hotel this morning took a fiacre and went to the Phan. Light houses situated on the eminence called Cap de la Heve, about a league from the port ascended the light. A fine sea view - the entrance of the Seine, the surrounding country verdant with trees, with the little port of Honfleur on the opposite shore.

Continued my drive to the villages of Grasville and Harfleur 2-1/2 leagues distant. The little church of Harfleur was built during the time the English had possession of Normandy. Is furnished with pews, in the manner of English churches - found no monuments of an old date -

April 18, 1842: Passage Down the Seine

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The fineness of the weather induced me to take passage in the daily steamer for Havre. Left the Quai of Rouen at nine o'clock, going at a rapid rate with the current. The Seine is very crooked which increases the land distance of of 19 leagues to 34. Passed a number of picturesque villages on the banks, the principal of which are Meilleraie and Candebec and the imposing ruins of the monastery of Jumieges, whose possessions were of great extent supporting 900 monks and 2300 convents.

Men by Charles the 7th the conqueror of the English had a rural retreat the residence of his beautiful mistress Agnes Sorel was at Mesnil when the magnificence of Charles had raised for her gentle manner. Death early snatched her away from him in the midst of his triumphs. At Jumieges she was buried, to the monks she had been very liberal, but afterward to flatter Louis 9th, they requested to remove the monument. But, Louis ordered them to return her donations if they removed her remains.

After passing the little port of Quillebeuf, the Seine widens into an arm of sea. Honfleur is on the side opposite to Havre into the port of which we entered at 4 o'clock. The Southampton Steamer Graded Turk was just departing and several English passengers transferred themselves to her. Alone sought the hotel del Europe. Remain two days to see the commercial town of Havre and its environs -

April 17, 1842: Arrival in Rouen

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A fine bright morning - the Seine in front of my room window. Several small English coal schooners and the Steamer Normandie smoking for her departure for Havre - sallied out. The Quays and streets full of merry looking people, Sunday morning and in their best clothes. Took a passing view of the two bridges, the suspension and stone bridge. The bronze statue of Corneille, who was a native of Rouen on the latter, up the Rue Grand Point to the cathedral. A venerable highly ornamented Gothic structure. The marche des fleurs was holding in front and mass performing inside. The Tour de Beffroy and the Grosse Horloge were not far.

At the palais de justice met with an intelligent boy (Le Moutardiere) in a blouse who offered me his services - to conduct me to all the antiquities of Rouen for 50 sous. Struck by the ugly names to the streets, as Rue du Massaere and Rue coupe Gorece - La place de la Pucelle with Jeanne d'Arcs statue in the centre. And when she was burnt alive in 1431 - an ancient house called the hotel du Bourgtheroulde. The walls covered with curious bass reliefs cut in stone representing historical subjects and among them the interview of Henry 8th and Francis 1st at the camp of Drap d'Or.

In rue de la Pic the house where Corneille was born, of wood and curiously carved. The church St. Patrice with its windows of highly colored glass and St. Maclou with its Gothic doors, rich in ornaments and sculpture, but the most beautiful of all the church of St. Oven. Commenced 1318 and finished 1522. Highly pleased with its clustered columns and lofty arches, light airy and cheerful, the best proportioned Gothic building I have ever seen. The architect that planned it deserved a high rank for taste in either ancient or modern times.

Understand that in the revolution, smiths forges were erected in it and holes pierced in the roof - some of the columns still blackened by the smoke. It belonged to a very rich monastery of Benedictines - the monks of St. Oven - contiguous to the church is a part of the monastery now used as the hotel de ville and galleries of paintings,which occupied me an hour in looking over.

The other parts of the monastery have been pulled down and the place turned into a large and ornamental square. At the Musee d' histoire naturelle is the usual assortment of birds and animals on a small scale, also the dried and black body of a negro or Abyssinian, disinterred from the sands of Africa. Among the antiquities are some of Roman origin, mostly from Lillebon near the mouth of the Seine and were a Roman circus has existed. Dined at the toble d'hote of my hotel. In company with Mr. & Mrs., just arrived from Canada and who will probably be fellow passengers in the Acadia to Halifax. In the evening my conductor took me to the salle de la Renaissance at St. Sever over the Seine. Crowded with grissettes - well dressed and of respectable deportment. All as merry as dancing and music could make them, but not all young or handsome -

April 16, 1842: Rouen

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Left Paris by the Menagerie of Rue Notre Dame des victoires at 8 o'clock this morning. Took place on the top called the languette in preference to the interior to see the country of which soon repented as it turned out a cold windy day. The road lay for the most part along the banks of the Seine and crossing several times, leaving Paris by the Bariere de L'Etoile. Passed down the avenue Neuilly in front of the Bois de Boulogne. The first town of any size we came to St. Germain en Loye. Breakfasted at 12 a la 14 leagues from Paris at Mantes. At 4 o'clock arrived at Louvier, noted for its cloth manufacturey. Crossed the Seine into Normandy by an old fashioned stone bridge. At Pont de L'Arcke, by the setting sun had a fine view of Rouen. The three last leagues the horses galloped, and by eight in the evening was in quarters at the Grand Hotel de Rouen - on the Oiai du Havre -