Travels with Henry

February 28, 1842: The Port

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The steamers on the lake have not commenced to run. In the winter months, the water in the port is too shallow to admit anything but the smallest sized boats. A hydrometer to measure the height stands in the street in front of ray window. Many come to look at it with apparent anxiety as to the state of the water. A drizzling rain with fog, scarcely went out, abundance of french newspapers of all sorts in the coffees. No restrictions at the protestant city of Geneva -

February 27, 1842: Arrival at Geneva

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To be placed between man and wife is not always right - but my place in the diligence was of 3 - Doctor and his wife on each side. The lady complained on getting in at the bulk of my pellice and cushion. Being a genteel little person, squeezed my self into the least possible space for her accommodation, and from fear of incommoding her, scarcely suffered myself to fall into a dose all night. For fear of falling on my fair neighbor - the doctor - a learned man had been at the congress of Savans at Florence, was very intelligent and communicative.

A cloudy night was succeeded by a fine morning. The snow clad mountains glittering in the sunshine. By 8 o'clock we were at the little town of Amici, after which a very picturesque country all the way to Geneva, passing the suspension bridge La Caille across a terrific deep valley. The charm of the Mount Jura in sight and lastly the Lake of Geneva, with the city of that name at the foot and its shores studded with villas & villages as far as the eye could reach. The hotels of Geneva are renowned, none that I have seen exceeds them. Elegant buildings neat and comfortable apartments.

I am now seated in my room at the Gouronne. The window of which looks out on the Lake. Before dining at the table d' hote, took a walk crossing the Rhone and along the bastions that surround the town -

February 26, 1842: Diligence

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One of the most conspicuous objects in Chambery is the monument erected by the city to the memory of Benoit de Boigne, who died at a good old age in l830. Was the founder of a hospital, and benefactor of the charitable institutions of the place to the amount of 3,700,000 francs. He amassed this immense fortune in India in the service of the East India company and returned to his native place where he spent the remainder of his days and so highly benefited.

This is a rainy day and cannot see the few other places in the vicinity, that we intended. Taken my place in the diligence to leave at 11 tonight for Geneva. Strolled under the arcades of the principal street, went into the cathedral -the sculptures of the facade broken by the french in the revolution. Nothing particular to see in the interior. Time hangs heavy in a little town on a rainy day. The population of Chambery is said to be 15,000 -

February 25, 1842: Chambery and the Fountain St. Martin

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Chambery is a neat little town, with several streets that may be called elegant. The first that I remember reading of it was in the confessions of Jean Jacques Rousseau - some ten years ago. He resided here in 1736 with Madme de Warrens, a lady who had formed an attachment to him. Took a guide and went to their place of residence - a retired little cottage about a mile from the town called Les Charmettes and where Jean Jacques says he passed the happiest days of his life.

The road to it is a narrow path shaded by trees and skirted by a little brook, along which going to Charmettes the first time Madme de Warrens found the Pervenche. As to the position of this abode it has been minutely described by the sentimental philosopher and things are nearly the same as where he left them - "un devant, un jardin - une vigne au dessus - un virger aa desscua - vis a vis un petit bois de chataigners - une fontagne a portee " etc. etc. - "jetais transports le premier jour que nous y coucharaes."

Opposite the house are the chestnut trees mentioned by J J and above is the hill where he passed such a happy day with Madme de Warrens. It overlooks the plain that extends to the South east of Chambery and in every direction are the finest views imaginable of mountains and vallys. I returned by a road above the house of which Rousseau speaks, "Je me levais tous les matins avant le soleil, Je montais par un virger voisin - dans un tres jolis chemin qui etait au dessus de la vigne et suivait la cote jusqua Chambery."

This leads to the fountain St. Martin, where there is another enchanting view. The town at my feet and in the distance a part of the Lake Du Bourjetwith, the ruins of a castle of feudal times on its borders. The horizon terminated by mountains more or less distant of which their outlines offer in several instances shapes most bold and fantastical. Got into one of those little carriages peculiar to Chambery and in which one sits sideways, like in an Irish jaunting car and drove to "Le Bout du Monde" - a singular and curious place.

A cul-de-sac formed by lofty precipices about an hours distance from the town and from which tumbles a cascade and several springs gush out from the rocks very picturesque. Were it not for a paper mill erected in the vicinity. Finished my days rambles at Chambery by going to the Chateau and Chapelle in the city, and to the different promenades which are not the least of the beauties of this capital of Savoy-

February 24, 1842: Alps and Chambery

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At the hour appointed was in the malle poste - 3 inside - for Chambery. Our route lay along the bank of the Dora and before dark were at the foot of the Alps & passed the little town of Rivoli. Unfortunately though moonlight, the night was misty so that we saw little or nothing of Alpine scenery. At 10 o'clock we were at Susa for the poste drives rapidly along and thence commences the ascent of Mount Cenis. For two hours we ascended on wheels and then passengers and luggage were transferred into covered sledges. As we approached the summit it blew a hurricane, several horses stopped and I put my head out a moment to look, but could see nothing but snow drifted up on all sides - with here and there a guide post sticking out.

Between one and two o'clock the height of 9,000 feet (as my guide book says) was attained, and thence commenced the descent. Galloping down to a milder and less boisterous climate and by six were refreshed by coffee and milk at the little town of Lanslebourg. From hence the road threads through a valley, which in some places contracts to a narrow pass and along a mountain stream called the Arc. A dreary prospect - snow covered mountains, bare rocks, a few stunted pines and here and there a dirty little village.

At Saint Jean de Maurienne the valley widens and is a town of several thousand inhabitants. Here we dined - the wine of the country excellent and the dishes very fair for such a remote place. The waiting maids fresh & rosy cheeked - the stout landlady, a large wen on her neck, wens and sore eyes very common. Passed a silver mine worked by government and at Aiguebelle iron works, both on a small scale.

Approaching Chambery the valley widens, and more fertile. Crossed the Isere, a tributary of the Rhone and a couple of hours after sunset arrived at our destination. And, here I am at the hotel de la poste writing this - when they shewed me the rooms. I inquired for a carpet, they replied it was not customary at Chambery and that here the Queen of Spain put up -

February 23, 1842: Adieu Turin

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The environs of Turin are considered well worth the attention of the traveler, but this is not the season for country and mountainous excursions. From Superga - crowned as its lofty summit is with the church, executed in commemoration of the victory of prince Eugena over the troops of Louis 14th - a century and a half ago.

Must be a lovely view in clear weather - this is the spire I saw from the top of the Duomo at Milan, a hundred miles distant have taken a place in the malle poste for Chambery, near Susa and Mont Cenis, to start at four and arrive in 27 hours . So adieu Turin and the river Po. Italy and the Apennines - when shall I see them again -

February 22, 1842: Turin

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Completed my tour round the city, nothing left of the walls but a small section contiguous to and supporting the gardens of the royal palace. Streams of water conducted from the Dora skirt the city and must be of great convenience as the women in Italy carry on their washing operations in the open air. Contiguous to a running stream, hospitals and charitable institutions abound in Turin as well as Milan and a kind of penitentiary at a short distance where juvenile offenders are employed in agricultural labour. Silence and separation at night are the punishments.

The present King Carlo Alberto is a great encourager of modern amelioration. Also, of the arts and sciences. Went through the museums of natural history and mineralogy, also of Egyptian, Grecian and Roman antiquities promenaded among the arcades and after dinner went in company with Mr. Laidler to the Teatro Diurno or equestrian circus. The female performers - young and handsome but not very active -

February 21, 1842: Gallery of Paintings

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Turin has always possessed a few fine paintings of the old masters. They are now collected together and occupy 17 rooms in the old palace Madama. There is a Madonna of the divine Raphael, which is engraved and admired throughout Europe. The Samson of Guido, who in colour and fine proportions of the body has well represented the warrior of the Almighty. The Prodigal Son of Guercino, who in misery and humiliated would move any heart, much more a fathers, who with an air of forgiveness and affection receives him with open arms. There are several Titians with his miraculous colouring. Among them our Saviour at supper in Emmaus, also of Grambellino and Palma Vecchio, the one with his gracious forms and the other with his correct design.

Some of the magnificent compositions of Paul Veronese, particular Pharaohs daughter finding Moses in the bulrushes. Among others of Poussin, Bassano - Mouvermans, Nandyke etc. etc. Altogether forming one of the finest galleries I have seen in Italy. Was accompanied round by a servant of high majesty in scarlet livery, who well understood the subjects and their merits. Leaving the palace Madama - walked across the public square called Emanuele Filiberto to the fine stone bridge of one arch over the Dora, considered a fine specimen of modern bridge building - finished 1830-

February 20, 1842: Arrival in Turin

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Before midnight passed the Sesio and town of Vercelli, and by five this morning at the Porta Vittoria of Turin. Day just began to break as we passed through the streets of the city - the public squares - the Castello - and the arcades had an air of grandeur in the twilight and silence of the early morning. Selected a comfortable room at the Hotel Feder and though had slept a little in the Malle Post, rolled myself in great coat and pelisse [three-quarter length coat] and took a two hours nap till nine o'clock. At eleven went to the Cathedral, where being Sunday his majesty was attending mass. His pew resembled a royal lodge at a theatre - sumptuously decorated with crimson and gold, and lighted with a profusion of tapers.

A tall straight man apparently past fifty reading very attentively. Near him knelt his son in military uniform and his young daughter in law, lately come from Vienna. After mass a sermon by a little old priest in Italian, who laid it on in right good earnest. The rest of the day spent in walking about - over the handsome bridge of the Po, to the Capuchin monastery on the hill a delightful view of the river and the city. The barefooted monk that accompanied us round the convent said he had worn the same stout cloth coat fourteen years. Dined at the table d'hote, a number of officers in uniform who spoke the Piedemontese dialect. Also a youngEnglish gentlemen son of Col. Cockburn. After dinner walked under the spacious arcades for which Turin is noted - some of the cafe's are splendidly furnished, being lent the theatres are closed -

February 19, 1842: Departure

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Made a hearty breakfast on rolls & coffee - packed trunks (a great bore), paid bill and waiters at the Gran Brettagna, and got comfortably seated in the right hand corner of the Malle post. By one o'clock the fine weather continues so that furred pelisse was unnecessary. Drove along the level plain of Lombardy at a brisk pace. In a few hours crossed the Tecinus over a beautiful granite bridge of 11 arches, which landed us in Piedemont - the territory of Carlo Alberto King of Sardinia.

Soon after dark arrived at Navara, a walled town of 15 thousand inhabitants. Here our trunks underwent a search - my books were particularly examined - Le Roi des marmots appears to be very cautious that his subjects morals be not injured by improper books. Dined or rather supped at Novara - five dishes & wine for 1 3/4 francs. Stowed away in a confined Piedemontese Malle poste. Gave it roundly to the conductor - so off we started at a rapid rate for Turin - a fine moonlight night -

February 18, 1842: Adieu to Milan

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Change of scene tomorrow - have taken a place in the courier for Turin in company with Mr. Laidler. Have taken my last walk on the corso and bastions a farewell visit to Claudina - so Adieu to Milan -

February 17, 1842: Simonetta

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About a mile outside the Gate Tenaglia is a country house called Simonetta - noted for a very wonderful echo. Was taken there by Mr. Laidler. A large old building, of palace like dimensions and stone columns in front, built by the Viscontis - Dukes of Milan.

Went up to the 3rd story, shouting out of the window is repeated thirty times, and firing off a pistol they say not less than fifty times. And what is very singular, there is no accounting for it. As the buildings in the vicinity are not particularly lofty or conspicuous for the sound to strike against, the last and most distant reverberations must be from the buildings in the city. Left this curious phenomenon, like others have done before me - quite puzzled to account for such a continued and endless repeated echo.

Dined at the Marino with no less than four counts. Titles are cheap in Lombardy - claims to be called good looking they certainly have. Never saw more handsome young men anywhere, tall well formed, with handsome black hair and beard - would certainly cut out the dandies of Paris -

February 16, 1842: Echo

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The fashionables of Milan certainly do not go to the opera to listen to the music. Last night there was such loud talkers in the boxes, that it was impossible to hear anything of the Maria Padilla of Dorrizetti. Whatever the ladies can find to say I can't immune, but there they sit for four hours chattering incessantly so that to a stranger without acquaintances or company the opera of Milan is quite a bore - shall not go again. To sit there like Hogarths critic, while all around is gaiety and amusement, but not at the performance. Besides, one gets tired of gazing -

February 15, 1842: Letters

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Received letters from England - Uncle expects me to give him a particular account of men and things, but what do I know of the politics and government of Lombardy. Am now ready to depart - have found company to Turin and perhaps Geneva in Mr. Laidler, an elderly gentleman from North of England and whom I fell in with at the Marino. Spent the evening in my room reading Ferri's Storid di Milano, wrote to Henry E. H. and to Rochester. Sent back Foraier's important letters to Venice without opening them -

February 14, 1842: Duomo

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The diversions of the past night do not keep the Milanese ladies from their devotions. A number of elegantes at the sermon at the Duomo - some accompanied with their husbands or brothers and others "pun troppo" without "caro sposo [spouse]."

Among the last Claudina in her neat little velvet bonnet, adorned with modest flower. Her little round face and short person looked as amiable and serious as any of them. Dined at the Marino, took leave of Monr. Crosnier of Lyons, who departs for Genoa -

February 12, 1842: Carnival

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The last day of the Milanese carnival, extended four days beyond the rest of the catholic world by Arabrosian rites. People from the surrounding towns of Pavia, Bergamo, Lodi, etc are flocked to Milan to enjoy the last of the diversions of the season. At two o clock the corso began to throng with carriages and the pelting with berries commenced. Those in masks were in open vehicles, and passing along threw up at the girls on the balconies who vigorously returned the fire on the assailants besprinkling them with plaster dust and corianders.

To the great amusement of the crowds of spectators in the streets who also came in for a share of the missiles - indeed with such vigor did some of the fair ones throw their ammunition, that I thought they were taking revenge on their unfaithful lovers. The old viceroy joined in the sport which nothing but old usage could tolerate. By 5 o clock it was all over - not to be reacted till this time next year - the last masquerade at the la Scala more crowded than ever - came away at 5 in the morning - the streets filled with music & merry making which only finishes with daylight -

February 11, 1842: Iron Crown

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By ten o'clock got to the railroad Station. Outside the Porta Nova, which is the only Strada Ferrata in Italy and goes ten miles over a champagne country to Monza, where we arrived in about 20 minutes. A little town of 12,000 inhabitants - a university once imperial palace, the residence of the vicere in summer, jumping down from the cars of the prima classe. Immediately found a cicerone who though only employed him for a few hours, found to be a great rogue.

The palace is a handsome modern building nearly as large as Shonbrun, surrounded by an extensive park and garden. Escorted by the gardener, walked over the latter and was surprised to find a large & beautiful magnolia - as flourishing as on the banks of the Mississippi in Louisiana. As February is not the month even in Lombardy for seeing horticultural beauties, spent the remaining two hours in walking over the town and outskirts, where are several sumptuous villas owned by the nobility of Milan. The most conspicuous of which is the villa Archinta - with its beautiful marble gateway.

The Basilican church is very celebrated and ancient, being founded by Queen Theolinda in the 6th century and whose ashes repose in an urn near the alter. There are a number of historical paintings, illustrative of the pious actions of the queen and the treasury rich with her gifts, among which is preserved a curious antique comb adorned with gold and rubies - also a fan.

Here is also the iron crown, a venerable relic and used from time immemorial to crown the Kings of Italy with and lastly the emperor in 1838. Internally is a small circle of iron, said to be of a nail used in the crucifixion of the saviour. In the adjacent cemetery is shown the dried body of one of the dukes Visconti, who bled to death on horseback from a wound in 1413.

Mounted the belfry and had an interesting view of the surrounding country - the park of the palace and the Alps to the north, but of Milan the view was obscured by smoke and mist. Whirled back on the railroad in 16 minutes and in time for the promenade on the Corso of Milan -

February 10, 1842: A Chase

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A gay scene last night or rather this morning - the large theatre brilliantly illuminated, the boxes filled with ladies in full dress and the stage and Plateau with dancers & promenaders in masks & dominoes. None admitted without one or the other, so put on a silk and rose col Manteau, which I eventually twisted round my arm to prevent being torn off in the crowd.

Came across a couple of elegantes in satin cloaks - costly plumes gold chains etc., but of natural beauty far outshining their luxurious dress, graceful form, neck & bosom of snowy whiteness etc. etc. Followed them round & round and to the ridottoes most of the night. Spoke to them several times, taking them by the arm etc. and at last began to have hopes of making their acquaintance, when alas a sudden damper put a stop to my aspirations. For passing through the corridor, slipped into one of the dress boxes, filled with ladies and gentlemen. Then saw how I had miscalculated, but how to account for such freedom of manners in respectable ladies? As I patted the tallest on the neck several times saying, Oh come bella, bella, so quite disheartened.

At half past four, made my way to the Gran Brettagna - but too restless and excited to sleep. Rose at nine - took a walk & felt quite refreshed. In the corso this afternoon the balconies filled with throwers of dragets on the passengers in the street. Did all I could to avoid them, but still got my coat & hat besprinkled over. Am told this custom is peculiar to Milan & Rome, as last carnival saw nothing of it at Florence -

February 9, 1842: Festa di Ballo

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The last days of carnival are at hand - grand Festa di ballo tonight at the La Scala. Dined at the Restaurateur del Marino and thence in company with two french gentlemen Mons Crosnier of Lyons & Mons Renay of Calais repaired to the little theatre del Gerolarao (des Marionettes).

Crowded as all the theatres at Milan are and which my guide book says should be seen once. Was not disappointed as the puppets in the Qazza Ladia were played well and the diminutive scenes admirably painted. The audience mostly juvenile, appeared highly delighted. It is now 11 o clock at half past twelve, I leave my room for the festa at La Scala -

Feb. 7–8, 1842: Porta Toso

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Bright clear sky - walked out on the bastions and to the several gates of Milan. At the one called porta Toso, sought for the statue from which it takes its name representing the punishment that women of evil life formerly underwent. Purchased the history of Milan by Count Verri -

February 6, 1842: Service in the Duomo

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The corso crowded with a procession of carriages. The viceroy and his sons attended by Chaoseurs in dashing uniform. Sermon in the Duomo - the preacher occupying the bronze pulpit to the right of the alter, his voice scarcely audible in the lofty dome and arches of the colossal pile -

February 5, 1842: Count Ettore Pallastrelli

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A bright sky - put my spy glass in my pocket and ascended the Duomo. Accompanied by a guide in priestly robe who pointed out to me the different edifices, most conspicuous in the city. Beyond, the rich plain of Lombardy lays, extending to the North some thirty miles to the Alps - in this direction Como. At the foot, the lake of that name is visible and a little more to the east of Bergamo. Far away in the horizon to the west is a single tower, indistinct - this my guide said was Turin - not less than 80 miles distant. The roof and spires of the Duomo are a forest of sculptures and marble statues - mostly in good taste and in fine preservation. The building of different spires is still going on at an annual cost of 100,000 livres.

After feasting my eyes in the airy regions, descended to the sacristy where the treasures and relics are kept. A silver statue of St. Ambrose, as large as life, holding a golden book in his hands. This present of the city to the Duomo cost the sum of 700,000 livres some sixty years ago. Also a number of others adorned with emeralds, rubies and topazes of large size. The silver utensils used at the coronation of the emperor in 1858 and an anterior cloth of gold embroidery by Pelligrino.

The foliage and figures in excellent style. At our table d'hote - entered into conversation with a literary man who appeared much pleased at my little knowledge of the Italian poets and reciting a few lines from Petrarch gave me his card. Count Ettore Pallastrelli - has traveled in England and understand has published some poetry -

February 4, 1842: Return to Milan

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My two companions left this morning at half past five. Strolled through the corridors of the University, reading the epitaphs of the learned men, distinguished in this part of Italy during the last centuries. The buildings are modern and extensive, and the principal cement of this once seat of the Lombard Kings. The Ticinius about the size of the Genesee at Rochester skirts the walls of the city.

Walked across the bridge but could see little, the town and country being enveloped in frost and fog. At 11 embarked on a canal boat to return to Milan, with some 20 or 30 other passengers of all conditions, but many of them students going to Milan to spend the remaining week of the carnival. The fare 3/4ths of a livre - 6 stirlg. - never traveled twenty miles at so low a price before. But, rather slow as it was five o'clock when I arrived at the Gran Brettagna before arriving at the city, a poor poet erne on board - recited one of his verses for the amusement of the passengers, who rewarded him with a few coppers. Being in the Milanese dialect, understood very little of what he said -

February 3, 1842: Excursion To Pavia

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At our table d'hote have made the acquaintance of two young Englishmen — Bright, who started today for Genoa per Vetturino. I accompanied them as far as Pavia, some 20 miles from Milan to see Certosa, a very famous church and monastery founded by Giovanni Galiozzo Viscounte – first duke of Milan. He same who commenced the Duomo. Certosa dates from 1396.

The road, leaving Milan by the Porto Ticino, runs along the canal which connects Milan with Pavia & then joins the river Ticinus. We arrived at Certosa in three hours for the snow had rather retarded our progress. As much as I had heard of the richness of Certosa, was surprised and my expectations exceeded in the beauty and variety of the marbles and mosaics of which its numberless alters are formed. Some of which are resplendent with rubies, emeralds, topazes and other reddish stones.

The monks of St. Bruno had once a revenue of a million lives per annum - which for a century or more they employed in adorning this temple, which is still in excellent preservation though the leaden roof was taken by Napoleon & converted to bullets, and one of tiles substituted. There is a marble monument & statue of Galeuzzo the Duke, and of Beatrice d'Este, a little short woman with a pleasing round face. The clog shoes on her feet is still the fashion of the country people in this part of Lombardy.

Leaving Certosa we entered Pavia an hour before dark, which gave us time to stroll through one or two of the principal streets. Noticed some very lofty brick towers intended in former times for defense, and which once were to be number of one hundred. In the evening went to the masquerade at the theatre, but cut rather an odd figure in our caps 6 traveling dress. The ladies merely looked on from the boxes, not being the custom at Pavia to mingle with the students of the university who number near 2,000. Got a fine dinner before bed at the Hotel della Lombardia -

February 2, 1842: The Corso

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A great holiday high mass and a procession in the Duomo by the archbishop. The numerous attendants appeared small in comparison to the gigantic dimensions of the edifice. A fine day - the streets and churches filled with well dressed people. Went and spent an hour in the churches San Fidele and La Scala [opera house] - a good show of the sex.

At two o'clock carriages began to assemble on the Corso and the bastions and for many a day have not seen a gayer sight. The carriages on the bastions were in four lines and some of them very sumptuous equipages -the viceroys had six horses.

The gravel side walks occupied by promenaders, many of whom had descended from the carriages. The ladies of Milan are stout, and at this season are fresh looking, their eyes remarkably brilliant. The La Scala in the evening not over well attended in consequence of a soiree dansante [a formal ball] at the Governors -