Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Saturday, January 2, 2010

April 26, 1842: London

Left trunk of books to be forwarded to Liverpool in bond and departed from Southampton by railroad to London, arrived in three hours. Put up at Collonade Hotel - Italian Opera House. Uncle James come and dined with me and accompanied him home to Turnham Green and saw Cousin Mary Hoole and Miss Pott, a young and interesting girl slender made and in thoughtful mood from the recent loss of her father -

Posted Online Friday, January 1, 2010

April 24-25, 1842: Excursion

At this season the steamers run several times a day to the Isle of Wight. Got up late had only time to get on board at the warf without taking breakfast. Found half a dozen gentlemen bound on a similar excursion to myself, some to land at Ryde and some at Cowes. In sailing down Southampton water admired the views. The new forest on one hand and Netley Abbey etc on the other. Enlivened by a mild spring sunshine. In a couple of hours arrived at East Cowes, for there are two towns - one on each side the Medina a river that divides the island in two parts. In the port of Cowes are some small fishing and coasting vessels, but few or none in the foreign trade at this time. From the steamer, transferred myself to a couch for Newport. In the interior of the island, had for company inside a young and modest girl, a native of the country. Before arriving at Newport there is an establishment called a Reformatory, for juvenile delinquents and the Albany barracks occupied by several companies of red coats. Breakfasted at the Bugle in Newport and hired a one horse vehicle called a fly to make the circuit of the Island at l8' per day. Beautiful weather and the drive from Newport to Yarmouth - agreeable but not very interesting.

Passed Carisbrooke Castle to the left - Yarmouth is a small town on the Solent Channel in width some two or three miles it never was of any importance, except that it sent two members to parliament before the reform act. Its population being only six hundred it was of course disfranchised from a small bastion on which are a couple of mortars had an interesting view of the Solent. At the entrance of which on a tongue of land is Hurst Castle and Light House. Symington on the low shore of Hampshire opposite to and five miles from Yarmouth - the superannuated old soldier that pointed out to me the various places shewed me also his little patch of wall flowers and roses. Coming out as accosted by several sailors with "Boat, Sir?"— when small craft appeared to be the only occupants of the mud filled port of Yarmouth. A few miles farther at Alum Bay descended the cliff and returning drove to the extremity of the island where there is a lighthouse and telegraph here the Needles - rocks are seen to best advantage. The cliff is many hundred feet high and frequented by flights of sea fowl. The inn that accompanied me to the point.

Shewed me the nests of the razor bills and the way they let each other down to get the eggs. His father fell over the cliff in a fog and was killed. From the Needles Light house the road runs on the top of Freshwater Gate. Dined and slept the only guest in the house. Continued the journey early in the morning, stopped at a little village called Brirton to breakfast. Entered the neat little old fashioned church, some quaint verses on the grave stones in the church yard - as

Nancy Ridett - Apr. 23rd 1827
In love she lived
In peace she died
Her life desired
But God denied

Elizg Chipp Mar l8l7
Grieve not for me my husband dear
Altho my body lieth here
Grieve not for me but comfort take
And love my offspring for my sake

A few hours drive brought me to Black Gang chine and St. Catherines Hill from whence the view extends over great part of the island. At the telegraph the men explained to me the signals made in announcing vessels. The Undercliff with a southern aspect and facing the sea, so called from its being protected from the north by a high ridge running parallel with the coast for several miles and considered the mildest climate in Great Britain. Resorted to on that account by numbers of invalids - Ventnor and Bonchurch are pretty villages as also is Shanklin, where I discharged the fly and went on to Ryde by the stage coach. At the end of the long wooden pier the steamer was waiting, which in half an hour landed me at Gosport and in another hour the rail road conveyed me to Southampton in time for a late dinner. This Isle of Wight excursion just occupying two days -

Posted Online Thursday, December 31, 2009

April 23, 1842: Portsmouth

Connected with the London and Southampton railroad is a branch lading to Gosport, a little town on the opposite side of the harbour to Portsmouth. In an hour and a half I had traversed the thirty miles and was crossing the harbour to Portsmouth. The Bay has a fine display of England's wooden walls laid up in ordinary -

"Hail mighty haven justly famed
Land lock'd and free from danger -
By every gallant seaman named
Her majesty's bed chamber"

Portsmouth is surrounded with ramparts which now are probably useless except on the sea side. The suburb in which the government dock yard is situated is called Portsea. First purchased a pamphlet descriptive of this grand naval arsenal and other interesting objects of this port. Went on board Nelssons ship the Victory

"Memorial of that Glorious day
Till centuries are passed away
Still proudly to our children say
We fought at Trafalgar"

She lies anchored in the harbour - used as a receiving ship. The spot on her deck where the brave Nelson fell is marked with a brass plate.

Visited the royal yacht which lies a mile higher up the harbour. Beautiful vessel all glittering with gold and rich carving but never used. By two o'clock the dock yard workmen had returned to their work and was admitted accompanied by a policeman to view the different departments where everything is conducted on the grandest scale. The number of men employed even in these times of peace is near 3,000.

First looked in at the mast houses - largest sized masts are made of segments and hooped together. The rope house 1100 feet long, not so many men employed since the introduction of iron chains and cables. Rope yarns are turned by steam machine, the store houses for hemp and ropes are two magnificent brick constructions, as also very extensive rigging and sail lofts. The grand basin is connected with dry docks in which were several ships of war repairing, besides other docks and basins some of which are covered with large wooden roofs sheeted with copper. The very interesting machinery for saving - turning, boring & mortaring blocks was explained to me. These machines cost 50,000 and are the invention of Mr. Brunnell. The Thomas tunnel architect, the number made per annum 150,000 and four men make with the machinery as many as 50 men by the old method. In the copper mill they were melting and rolling copper into sheets for ships use. A first rate requires 5123 sheets to cover her bottom.

At the anchor forgo fifty men were hammering away at an immense anchor for 120 gun ship - weight 90 cwt. On the stocks are ships of the line, frigates ft steamers, all under wider spreading roofs, each roof costing 6000 pounds each. In the dock yard saw the post admiral Sir E Coddrington of Algiers memory - a fine hearty man of 70. Well pleased during the two hours visit to the dock yard. Walked up the high street, over the parade ground and on the ramparts of Portsmouth. Crossed the harbour and returned to a late dinner at my hotel at Southampton -

Posted Online Wednesday, December 30, 2009

April 22, 1842: Winchester

Took a seat in the first class cars and was transported to the ancient city of Winchester, which would now only rank among the towns of England as a large village. Its old Saxon and Gothic cathedral is in fine preservation and was the first object to which I directed my steps. The monuments it contains are curious and interesting, the tomb St. Swithin and Rufus son of William the Conqueror, also of Edmond the son of Alfred with an inscription in Saxon characters - l66l.

Bishop Fox collected the bones of the Saxon Kings and princes that had been thrown about by Cromwell's soldiery and deposited them in six mortuary chests. In one chest are the bones of pious King Edred 955, in another those of Onute. The earliest date are King Kinegils 641. There are number of monumental chapels in different parts of the church (in length 550 feet) as of Cardinal Banfort in his hat and red robes, Bishop Wykeham, who rebuilt the Cathedral and died in 1404, of Wayne fleet the founder of a college at Oxford.

Besides monuments ancient and modern to the number of several hundred, spent the remainder of the day in visit. St. Marys college, which educated classically some seventy young men, who when I went in were at prayers in the chapel and afterward at their amusements of crickets. This was founded and endowed in a princely manner by the good bishop Wykeham. In a verdant valley about a mile from Winchester lies the hospital of St. Cross, a mighty and venerable rile that has existed for seven centuries and supports 13 old infirm men and in former times many more. It was built and endowed by Henry de Blois, bishop of Winchester and brother of King Stephen. One of the aged inmates shewed me round the gardens, chapel, etc. Returned to dinner to Southampton - well pleased with the days excursion to Winchester.

Posted Online Tuesday, December 29, 2009

April 21, 1842: Passage To England

At daylight this morning our steamer had neared the coast of England, the wind and waves abated, as also our seasickness. Rose with a clear stomach, well pumped out, replenished with a breakfast of cold beef and eggs. Passed the isle of Wight - Portsmouth - the Victory Lord Nelsons flag ship lying in the harbour, Spit-head and the soot where the Royal George was sunk some fifty years since.

At nine, landed at the Pier of Southampton. Took up my quarters at the Dolphin Hotel in a handsome part of the town called High Street. The town is clean and elegant houses in the suburbs. Took a fly and dove to Netley Abbey - venerable ruins. Returned to dinner at the Dolphin, five evening, walked an hour or two in the High Street above the Platform and on the water side -

Posted Online Monday, December 28, 2009

April 20, 1842: Ingouville

Rambled out of one of the gates of Havre this morning to the top of the hill beyond Ingouville. A fine, clear day with the wind from the north and to see the house in the rue de la Corderic where was born Bernardin St. Pierre, the author of Paul and Virginia, who died in l8l4.

At seven embarked on the Steamer Ariadne for Southampton, and bid farewell to the shores of La Belle France. After passing Cap la Heve had the wind in our teeth - a horrid motion that sent most of us to our births to settle accounts with David Jones -

Posted Online Sunday, December 27, 2009

April 19, 1842: Havre

Havre has no antiquities or objects connected with history. A Liverpool or New York in miniature - spacious and secure docks, quays covered with bales of cotton, bags of coffee, piles of logs wood etc. A great coal trade with Newcastle for the supply of the manufacturers and steamers that run to different ports on the coast of France, the Baltic, etc.

After breakfasting in the salle a manger of the hotel this morning took a fiacre and went to the Phan. Light houses situated on the eminence called Cap de la Heve, about a league from the port ascended the light. A fine sea view - the entrance of the Seine, the surrounding country verdant with trees, with the little port of Honfleur on the opposite shore.

Continued my drive to the villages of Grasville and Harfleur 2-1/2 leagues distant. The little church of Harfleur was built during the time the English had possession of Normandy. Is furnished with pews, in the manner of English churches - found no monuments of an old date -