Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Saturday, December 26, 2009

April 18, 1842: Passage Down the Seine

The fineness of the weather induced me to take passage in the daily steamer for Havre. Left the Quai of Rouen at nine o'clock, going at a rapid rate with the current. The Seine is very crooked which increases the land distance of of 19 leagues to 34. Passed a number of picturesque villages on the banks, the principal of which are Meilleraie and Candebec and the imposing ruins of the monastery of Jumieges, whose possessions were of great extent supporting 900 monks and 2300 convents.

Men by Charles the 7th the conqueror of the English had a rural retreat the residence of his beautiful mistress Agnes Sorel was at Mesnil when the magnificence of Charles had raised for her gentle manner. Death early snatched her away from him in the midst of his triumphs. At Jumieges she was buried, to the monks she had been very liberal, but afterward to flatter Louis 9th, they requested to remove the monument. But, Louis ordered them to return her donations if they removed her remains.

After passing the little port of Quillebeuf, the Seine widens into an arm of sea. Honfleur is on the side opposite to Havre into the port of which we entered at 4 o'clock. The Southampton Steamer Graded Turk was just departing and several English passengers transferred themselves to her. Alone sought the hotel del Europe. Remain two days to see the commercial town of Havre and its environs -

Posted Online Friday, December 25, 2009

April 17, 1842: Arrival in Rouen

A fine bright morning - the Seine in front of my room window. Several small English coal schooners and the Steamer Normandie smoking for her departure for Havre - sallied out. The Quays and streets full of merry looking people, Sunday morning and in their best clothes. Took a passing view of the two bridges, the suspension and stone bridge. The bronze statue of Corneille, who was a native of Rouen on the latter, up the Rue Grand Point to the cathedral. A venerable highly ornamented Gothic structure. The marche des fleurs was holding in front and mass performing inside. The Tour de Beffroy and the Grosse Horloge were not far.

At the palais de justice met with an intelligent boy (Le Moutardiere) in a blouse who offered me his services - to conduct me to all the antiquities of Rouen for 50 sous. Struck by the ugly names to the streets, as Rue du Massaere and Rue coupe Gorece - La place de la Pucelle with Jeanne d'Arcs statue in the centre. And when she was burnt alive in 1431 - an ancient house called the hotel du Bourgtheroulde. The walls covered with curious bass reliefs cut in stone representing historical subjects and among them the interview of Henry 8th and Francis 1st at the camp of Drap d'Or.

In rue de la Pic the house where Corneille was born, of wood and curiously carved. The church St. Patrice with its windows of highly colored glass and St. Maclou with its Gothic doors, rich in ornaments and sculpture, but the most beautiful of all the church of St. Oven. Commenced 1318 and finished 1522. Highly pleased with its clustered columns and lofty arches, light airy and cheerful, the best proportioned Gothic building I have ever seen. The architect that planned it deserved a high rank for taste in either ancient or modern times.

Understand that in the revolution, smiths forges were erected in it and holes pierced in the roof - some of the columns still blackened by the smoke. It belonged to a very rich monastery of Benedictines - the monks of St. Oven - contiguous to the church is a part of the monastery now used as the hotel de ville and galleries of paintings,which occupied me an hour in looking over.

The other parts of the monastery have been pulled down and the place turned into a large and ornamental square. At the Musee d' histoire naturelle is the usual assortment of birds and animals on a small scale, also the dried and black body of a negro or Abyssinian, disinterred from the sands of Africa. Among the antiquities are some of Roman origin, mostly from Lillebon near the mouth of the Seine and were a Roman circus has existed. Dined at the toble d'hote of my hotel. In company with Mr. & Mrs., just arrived from Canada and who will probably be fellow passengers in the Acadia to Halifax. In the evening my conductor took me to the salle de la Renaissance at St. Sever over the Seine. Crowded with grissettes - well dressed and of respectable deportment. All as merry as dancing and music could make them, but not all young or handsome -

Posted Online Thursday, December 24, 2009

April 16, 1842: Rouen

Left Paris by the Menagerie of Rue Notre Dame des victoires at 8 o'clock this morning. Took place on the top called the languette in preference to the interior to see the country of which soon repented as it turned out a cold windy day. The road lay for the most part along the banks of the Seine and crossing several times, leaving Paris by the Bariere de L'Etoile. Passed down the avenue Neuilly in front of the Bois de Boulogne. The first town of any size we came to St. Germain en Loye. Breakfasted at 12 a la 14 leagues from Paris at Mantes. At 4 o'clock arrived at Louvier, noted for its cloth manufacturey. Crossed the Seine into Normandy by an old fashioned stone bridge. At Pont de L'Arcke, by the setting sun had a fine view of Rouen. The three last leagues the horses galloped, and by eight in the evening was in quarters at the Grand Hotel de Rouen - on the Oiai du Havre -

Posted Online Wednesday, December 23, 2009

April 13-15, 1842: Departure from Paris

Called on Bishop Rozati who has just returned from Haiti - as the Popes Legate. Breakfasted at Tortoni , dined as a farewell dinner at Cafe de Paris with Mr. Laidler. Went last night to the Performance of Racims tragedy of Andromache Madlle Rachell as Hermione. The fureurs d'Orestres admirably performed.

Today busy packing books and trunks for departure tomorrow for Rouen per diligence -

Posted Online Tuesday, December 22, 2009

April 12, 1842: Preparing for Departure

Breakfast at the Cafe Foy on the Boulevards Italian corner of Rue de la Chasse d' Antin. One of the handsomest coffee houses in Paris, sought shawls etc, and am beginning to prepare for departure from Paris. Sad & sorrowful to leave all the pretty girls behind. Madmlle Esther Madm Herni and all the rest of the retites maitresses entretennes that rendezvous in rue St. Augustine-

Posted Online Monday, December 21, 2009

April 11, 1842: Artwork

Weather cold and raw - a slight fall of snow, which melted as it touched the ground. Dined at Vefours in the Palais Royal. Visited the rooms of the palace in company with Mr. Laifiler, formerly the residence of Louis Phillippe when duc d'Orleans.

Some good paintings illustrative of the history of the Orleans family. In the evening at a hall in Salle St. George vue Ne Breda - pretty women and very gay hut made no acquaintances. Came away at eleven -

Posted Online Sunday, December 20, 2009

April 4-10, 1842: Leisure Day

Spent these days in leisure and amusements, visited the exhibition at the Louvre. The fortifications which are beginning to rise from their foundations in different quarters around Paris, particularly at the Bois de Boulogne.

Rode out to the detached Fort at Mont Calvaire - had a beautiful view of the city and surrounding country. Also, from the top of the arc de l'Etoile and while there the King rode past in carriage and six on his way to St. Cloud and Versailles. At the Theatre Francais attended the performance of Molieres' Misanthrope and the couturiers at the Port St. Martin -