Rainy day - and Sunday the cathedral of Dijon crowded with women. Religion seems to be confined to the sex in France. Dined at the table d'hote at hotel du Pare - a Spanish danseuse at the table a beautiful modest delicate little woman. Went afterward to the Cafe Du Balcon - where to my surprise found enthroned as me manager and proprietor Madame Vergoncey, who left the neighborhood of St. Louis three years ago with her husband and two children, little Missourians. She is now a widow and speaks of the ten years of her best days past in Missouri as lost time -

Walked on the ramparts - crossed the bridge over the river Oache. Reentered the town by the gate of that name after breakfast, kept the appointment with Madam Louise. At the Rue des Forges - exactly opposite the house where Marguerite of Burgundy was born.

Madam, a good specimen of french beauty, small in her person - in size and shape a little venus. Neat turned foot and ankle and delicate hand, but with an ordinary round french face. An amorous brunette, just the very little -only to disturb a mans peace of mind. Well dressed in silks and jewelry. In passing by her mothers tomorrow in the Rue Jeannin if she is at the window, she will come down, but I must look up as if I were not looking at all. For if a Frenchman comes to know she is visited, would ruin her - excellent intriguer - leaving rue des Forges (first calling in at another-house to look at an old Gothic staircase).

Went to Arquebuse - a public promenade and a cabinet d'Histoire naturelle. Here is a remarkable large poplar tree planted in the time of Francis 1st - close by is the Jardin des plantes extensive and well kept. 8,000 specimens of plants and a bronze bust of Legouz Gerland the founder 1772.

Went to a masked ball, which understood to be a subscription ball. Found them mostly students and grisettes. However, the girls behaved better than the students. Met a Mr Richardot - a travelor in the wine trade and was acquainted with cousin H E S of Sheffield -

Such was the number of old Gothic in Dijon that many of then have been turned into storehouses and two large ones are occupied as markets. Walked along the ramparts from the porte de In liberie, past the old castle to the porte St. Bernard in which direction to town must be rapidly on the increase from the number of elegant new buildings. Breakfasted at the hotel and waited on as last evening by the civil daughters of the landlord.

Afterward visited the cathedral, church Notre Dame, and then to the palais des etats or Logis du rois buildings of the last century. In one wing of which is the muse which I found very interesting - the objects that struck me most were the Gothic monuments of the Dukes of Burgundy Philippe le hardi and Jean sans peur, fine specimens of the art of sculpture of the middle ages and in fine preservation the gallery of paintings and engraving very respectable. Spent near three hours in the Muse and then strolling out of the gate St. Pierre.

Traversed the promenade du Parc-near a mile long and handsomely planted with trees. The ground purchased by the city and laid off for this purpose some years ago. In the evening at the theatre an elegant modern building in the style of the Odeon at Paris - the interior indifferent - and performance of the tremblement de terre [earthquake] a Martinique quite wearisome -

Up at four and off by the diligence at five. A stormy, rainy morning, breakfasted at Dole. A little town halfway between Dijon and Besancon - gave a beggar woman two sous. Another comes up and accuses her of being an impostor and then they had a regular set to with words and terms, which the fecundity of the dictionare de l'Academise, hardly fumish. Dole is the limit of Franche-comte.

From thence we were in Burgundy. Large plains highly cultivated, got to Dijon the ancient capital of the Dukes of Burgundy in time for dinner. Walked out a little in the evening to the cafe on the place d'armes. Neither the cafe nor the lady presiding remarkably handsome, but not so with the two girls we met in the Square (Mr. Laidler in company) of whom we inquired the way to the play. Followed them down the rue de la prefecture when they begged us not to follow them any farther, as Dijon was a very scandalous place. Gave us their address to meet them tomorrow with many precautions, etc. all fudge no doubt --

March weather today, rain and wind, cleared off afterwards. Umbrella in hand walked out along the paved bank of the Doubs. Dined at Migons Restaurateur - pate de foie gras and vin chablis - white burgundy. The best Pâtés come from Strasbourg. The waiter tells me the livers of which they are made are from geese nailed fast by a foot, and fed till the liver become of enormous size- they are also seasoned with truffles -

Today the sun shone out warm for the month of March. With a written permit obtained at the diligence office ascended the hill to the citadel, which occupies the place of the roman camp Mons Caelius. This modern fortification is of the construction of the famous Vauban. Mounted on the inner walls had a fine view of the whole as well as of the city and surrounding country. The fortress is strong by nature as well as by art and is considered impenetrable.

The works were mostly constructed by Louis 14th and were so exnensive that the monarch asked if the walls of the citadel of Besancon were not built of gold. The keeper that showed us round informed us that several thousand English prisoners of war were kept here during the war. The room was also pointed out to us from which Gen. Bourmont made his escape in the time of Napoleon. Effected by working a hole through the wall, being covered by a large map of Europe, hanging in his room. Bourmont deserted Napoleon at Waterloo and captured Algiers - during the restoration, is still living.

Besides the citadel there are two neighboring heights - Chaudami and Breville strongly fortified. The latter of which protected the town from Bombardment by the allies in l814. The town which lay underneath us, is divided from the faubourg by the river Doubs. Running round the ramparts and forming as Casar has described it. The figure of a horse shoe remained for hour viewing the course of the river. The villages of Franche comte and Burgundy, the public promenades and walks along the Doubs occupied by people enjoying the fine day.

Descending from the Citadel, entered the cathedral. Meeting a young priest inquired for the tomb of the Archbishop Dubourg who died here some 8 years since and is buried in the subterranean vaults of the cathedral, but was informed he has no monument as yet. He died poor, four months after his appointment to the archbishopric, as only known to the people here by his pastoral charge, given on his entrance. A memorable specimen of learning and piety, a subscription has been commenced to erect a monument, being so little known has made small progress.

I personally knew the abbe Duborg, when bishop of Saint Louis which he left about 1824 walked under the ramparts of the town along the paved quays. Half the circumference of the horse shoe to the stone bridge the foundations of which are from the time of the Romans, there exists little of the ancient Visontio. A triumphal arch near the cathedral - so defied that I should have passed it without noticing it, had it not been pointed out to me. Also, the remains of an aqueduct-the promenade called the Chamars - is the campus martius of the Romans.

The little theatre in the evening was crowded - to hear the Juive - la remiere chanteuse that performed the Jewess. Madm Phillipe a fat, squabby little woman with a fine voice somewhat broken. Got a place in the premiere loges for 2 and 1/2 francs. The pit filled with females all in caps - merry round faced, rosy cheeked franche comtoises -

Left Lausanne last night at 12 by the malle poste, which drove rapidly with good road. At 3 o'clock this morning got to Orbe - a little town about five miles of Verdun at the bottom of Lake Neuchatel, which we left to the right by daylight arrived at the valley of the Doubs and mountains a continuation of the Jura which are the frontiers of France. Baggage underwent a strict search by the custom house officers who made me pay 4 francs on my new watch.

Here the diligence could go no farther - had to take small cars to cross the mountain the scow very deep and tremendous rough ride for about ten miles. Wild scenery, rocks and hills covered with fur trees. Here the river Doubs has its source. The little stream turning numerous saw mills along the valley through which we descended into the plains of France. The road passes close under the Fort du Jaug - the place where Toussaint L'ouverture ended his days.

On a hill bleak and barren, a few miles farther brought us to the next little town of Pontarlier. Made a hearty breakfast a la fourchette for which the mountain had given a keen appetite. Exchanged the jolting car for the well cushioned coupe of a new diligence and off we started. Fine roads and good horses- across the hills and plains of Franche compte, descending a valley came again in view of the river Doubs. Now increased to a majestic stream compared to the little brook of the morning. A fortress on a lofty hill and then city of Besancon broke upon view. Into which we entered by a gate cut through the rock. And here I am in quarters at the Hotel de France and spend tomorrow in seeing the town and fortifications -