Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Saturday, November 28, 2009

March 6, 1842: Expenses of Living

Mild day but somewhat cloudy. Went to the cathedral, being Sunday, understood there would be a sermon. Finding no one there came away. The ancient pile appeared deserted. Was told afterward that the service was in a chapel in one of the aisles. Rumbled to the hill back of the town, found seats, and shaded gravel walks with a delightfull view . Not far distant from the cemetery, a funeral, four or five carriages. The hearse covered with garlands of flowers drawn by two horses, each with a leader. Very plain and ostentatious. Leave at midnight for Besancon - Vive la belle France.

The following expenses of living at Lausanne from Madame VeBaldy Lamy - epicerie - who is also agent for letting houses, Clermont, 6 minutes walk from the town - 8 rooms cellar etc, coach house and stable for 4 horses garden, Bosquet & promenade, 2400 francs of France per anm. Mount Benoit - 7 rooms, smaller than Clermont - promenade, etc. 1500 francs per anm, furnished Rooms in town 24 francs each.

Servant maids l'0 to 180 francs per anm
Butter - 9 sous per lb. - 4-1/2st. g-
Bread -(best) 3-1 '2 sous - 1-3/4 "
Beef " 9 sous lb.
Mutton - " "
Veal " 8 sous

Labourers - farmers or gardeners 1 and 1/2 francs per day-
Boarding per day best style at Hotel Gifcbon 5 francs
Saloon and two bed Rooms, 1st story -

Posted Online Friday, November 27, 2009

March 5, 1842: To The Market of Lausanne

Market day at Lausanne - streets crowded with women with baskets on their backs. Strolled out to the different parts of the town to get to the upper part where the cathedral and Chateau are situated have to ascend long flights of steps. The former building, a venerable Gothic structure dating from the 10th century and at present devoted to the Lutheran-Protestant worship. Contained a number of monuments - one of Pope Felix V who abdicated the tiara. A little corner is occupied with the monuments of the English who have died here, mostly of the last century. The last and handsomest is to the memory of Henrietta, wife of Stratford Canning - English ambassador to Switzerland in l8l7. But, it is not the buildings that are the charm of Lausanne - its beautiful situation facing the south, the pleasing variety of water, mountains, fertile plains and villages interspersed -

Its inhabitants have an air of respectability and is the capital of the canton de Vaud - with an active little commerce of wine & grain. The produce of the neighborhood - its population over 12,000. Near the church of St. Francis is a house pointed out to me as the one occupied by the author of the decline and fall. At the table d'hote two English ladies and a gentleman their brother who have passed the winter here also a Col. Shaw - venerable in years and infirm -

Posted Online Thursday, November 26, 2009

March 4, 1842: Lausanne

finished watch purchases - packed trunks at dejueniea la fourchette at 11 and in the diligence for Lausanne at 12. Before getting in, a gentleman that I had met several times at the table at the Curonne - a rather shabbily dressed as a military man but who I understood had served under Napoleon, asked me for my address in America and gave me his - Duc d'Alfrheri - a Marseille - France. And desiring me not to reveal it to any one, as he was in Geneva under an assumed name and to mention his name to Mr. Benton our senator, as he intended shortly to see the president. On business that concerned him, don't know what to think of his pretensions to the title of Duke.

The road to Lausanne lays along the borders of Lake Leman. A fine spring day - a lady and young German in the Coupe cheerful company. Passed a number of villages in the pass - say canton de Vaud - neat and pretty of which Morges is the principal. A few leagues farther on arrived at Lausanne entering by the promenade of Mount Benon.

Rows of trees and seats, for half a mile on each side the road. A calm fine evening, talked about the little town. And on the New Terrace, facing the lake and the Alps beyond reflected on the smooth water. Enjoyed the scene while daylight lasted and then retired to my hotel. Called after the historic "Hotel Gibbon" good house, pleasantly situated and genteelly furnished and no doubt much frequented in the season when Lausanne is visited by strangers-

Posted Online Wednesday, November 25, 2009

March 3, 1842: Museum Ruth

Firing of Guns at day break this morning. Learnt afterwards that it was by the democrats celebrating the anniversary of a bloodless revolution - a year ago. An extension of the franchise etc.

People in the town seemed to follow their business as usual. The museum Ruth open today. The pictures mostly by modern artists and few of merit. One that struck me most was the dying Calvin, surrounded by Beza and the senators - council of Geneva. Busy among the watchmakers purchasing, no judge of watches, somewhat embarrassed. Fine weather, leave Geneva for Lausanne tomorrow -

Posted Online Tuesday, November 24, 2009

March 2, 1842: Voltaire

A clean blue sky - the sun throws his cheerful rays on the snowy peak of Mount Blanc. Visible from the windows of the hotel Des Bergues in the western part of the town of Geneva. Took advantage of the fine day to visit Ferney, the well known chateau of Voltaire, a distance of two leagues only from the city and at the foot of the Jura mountains, and surrounded by a little village of the same name. A handsome stone building of some architectural pretensions and of a date some time preceding the illustrious author.

An old man with hoary head and tottering step came up to me on alighting from the carriage and gave me to understand that when a boy, he was in the service of the Signer of Ferney. Was shown two rooms which the present owner Count somebody still suffers to remain as when Voltaire left them on his last journey to Paris in 1787. When he died, a parlor and bedroom. In the latter his little bed and a number of portraits, among the rest, of Frederick the great - from himself as a present and of Catherine of Russia, done in needlework on silk by herself. But, the cabinet where Voltaire wrote the Siecle of Louis XV and Fragmuns sur L'Inde is now a servants room to clean boots in!

The park and Garden are admirably laid out and must look better now than in the life time of the poet. From the trees that he planted, arrived at full growth. The shaded terrace where the author of the Merapi and the Tancrede, walked with quick step, animated by the fire of his compositions. In view of Mount Blanc, to which the flights of his genius elevated him, and eventually accused of his rheumatisms.

Was introduced to his venerable gardener (aged 78) - who shewed his wig and night cap. Also, a very interesting collection or seals, of personages corresponding with Voltaire. Among them noticed - Gibbons - Lausene - Lord Syttleton - Wm. Gray - Anglois.

The little church stands close to the house - Deo erexit Voltaire - where is his tomb, but his bones are at Paris - the theatre - and library have been destroyed. Coming back to Geneva, had a charming view of the lake, and the snow covered Alps, glittering in the setting sun -

Posted Online Monday, November 23, 2009

March 1, 1842: The Hill of Coligny

Some fog - a bad season to see the enchanting beauties of Lake Leman. Its blue waters and shores adorned with villages and country seats. At noon, fog partially cleared away. Took a ride to the hill of Coligny - a fine view - the lake, the city and the mountains. Here is a house occupied six months by Lord Byron. An old fashioned country villa, now in the occupation of another English family. Nothing can be finer, situated a quarter of a mile from the edge of the Lake facing the south west and the horizon bounded by the ridge of the Jura.

In the evening went to the theatre, the little building crowded to see Madme Albert in the Meuniere de Marly - who also performed Marie in the drama vaudeville Albert in a very affecting manner - the female part of the audience who were the most numerous shewed their tender hearted simplicity - they were all in tears

Posted Online Sunday, November 22, 2009

February 28, 1842: The Port

The steamers on the lake have not commenced to run. In the winter months, the water in the port is too shallow to admit anything but the smallest sized boats. A hydrometer to measure the height stands in the street in front of ray window. Many come to look at it with apparent anxiety as to the state of the water. A drizzling rain with fog, scarcely went out, abundance of french newspapers of all sorts in the coffees. No restrictions at the protestant city of Geneva -