Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Saturday, October 10, 2009

January 7, 1842: Paul Veronese

Cold dry air - sky clear and bright. Took advantage of the bright day to see the great works of Paul Veronese at San Sebastiano and of Palma at the church Santa Maria Formosa. Past the church Dei Frari and called in to see what I had overlooked in my visit of Dec. 3rd - a plain wooden coffin said to contain the head of Carmagnuola, beheaded by the senate of the republic in 1431. A subject that is very ably dramatised, by Manzoni.

In a remote quarter of Venice is the church San Sabastiano and here the great artist has perpetuated his memory as long as his works may last. Of the five or six masterpieces, the one that afford me the most pleasure is Saints Mark and Marcellus led out to martyrdom. Their old parents are meeting them on the steps of the prefecture - their wives and children are kneeling, represented with such affectionate grief and respect - and all so natural - happily imagined - pleasing colours, correct drawing, and an inexpressible charm about the unequaled work of art.

Such is the freshness of the colours that the copy along side it now completing for the Duchess of Sutherland looks tame and insipid in comparison. At Santa Mr. Founosa is the noble figure of Santa Barbara by Palma - the church of the Jesuits built beginning of the last century and when the republic was in decline, is a sumptuous affair internally encrusted with oriental marbles and gilded roof.

There is the work of Titian - the martyrdom of St. Lawrence on the Gridiron - it was sent to Paris by Napoleon as a masterpiece and restored in 1820, but is now fast going to destruction, owing to the over varnish or the damn, causing the paint to reel off -

Posted Online Friday, October 9, 2009

January 5-6, 1842: Picture Dealers

Went with the servile to see paintings for Sale. First to a widow lady's, who had nothing that pleased me but a queen of Hungary and the portrait of a Spanish gentleman of the last century. Her asking price, 30 Napoleons each. Then to a superannuated old man - who had a number of good things, which he claimed to be the work of Michelangelo and other great masters. All these Italians that have paintings are more or less charlatans. Made Mr. David Weber an offer, which he sends me word that he will accept.

So, have for 30 Napoleans - the Nyruh Syrene a half figure - robust and as large as life, flying from Pan - by Gaval— Liberi. The other a Madonna - the infant saviour and St. John. The design excellent, and the chino scuro well managed. Nothing can be more graceful than the Madonna - the position in which she is seated, and the expression of her countenance - of this last purchase I feel somewhat proud -

Posted Online Thursday, October 8, 2009

January 2-4, 1842: Snow and Venice

A change in the weather at last - cold wind with snow which melts as it falls in the narrow streets of Venice. The number of men carefully scraping up the snow in the square of St. Mark is in consequence of the will of some benevolent old lady leaving money to be so expended. Perhaps the same who made a legacy to feed the pigeons that are constantly flying about the square -

Posted Online Wednesday, October 7, 2009

January 1, 1842: New Years Day

Last new years day I was in Paris, and the next hope to pass in America. A clear sky, mild and sunshine - a visit from my padrona, Felicita and other compliments of the season. Going out to take my coffee at Florians was beset on every side, the Gondoliers as well as the poor make this a privileged day and every one that had the means distributed centesimi and carantani [Names of currency] as they went along.

The fine day brought out all Venice to the public square and Gardens - in the evening at the opera at the Fenice. Quite taken with the talented and beautiful prima Donna - Sig. Goldberg -

Posted Online Tuesday, October 6, 2009

December 31, 1841: Island San Lazzaro

Standing on the piazza of Saint Mark and looking towards the east over the water and through the masts of the fishing and other small craft with which the port of Venice is now filled, one sees several small islands at a distance or rather buildings and bell towers rising out of the water. Some of these are hospitals and some convents, the nearest and largest is San Georgio Maggiore - with a fine church built by the first architects of the 17th century, Palladio and Scamozzi. At a greater distance and indistinctly seen is the island San Lazzaro.

A bright sunshine, and the waters just rippled by a gentle breeze put me in mind of Father Alepson's invitation to visit the Armenian monastery - barca! barca was answered by twenty gondalier's - ecco lo la Signor - always waiting for passengers in front of the red columns.

A mile and a half over the water brought us (myself and Italian master) to San Lazzaro. Father Alepson was not in the house, but his plan was kindly supplied by Father Paschale, the venerable and learned man who twenty years ago assisted Lord Byron in his studies of the Armenian language - the English and Armenian dictionary on which he was employed in his Lordships time is now published, also his translation of Milton into Armenian and other works & proofs of the indefatigable labours of these Pious monastic's.

He showed us the library, with books and manuscripts in all languages. The table still remains in the middle of the room at which he and Byron used to sit - to my inquiries if his pupil were a man of a cheerful temper, he relayed that at times he was dejected and spoke with acrimony of his wife and the British government and as if he were disgusted with the whole world, at other times he was more cheerful, and that much of the time while in Venice was occupied in writing and composing his poetry.

In his visits to the island was generally accompanied by his friend Mr. Hobhouse, who waiting for Byron used to walk in the little garden under the library window. After looking at the mummy of the Egyptian priest and the printing office - purchased the prayer of the Armenian patriarch in 24 languages. Among the names of American visitors observed Bishop Rosati of St. Louis - inscribed my own - and took leave of the venerable Father Paschale.

Getting to the Gondola from the steps of the convent, rowing back to the city the wind had increased a little, which terrified my Italian to such a degree - that he appeared quite ridiculous. And, which all my assurances of safety failed to pacify - he afterward apologised for his imbecility, saying he had never been accustomed to the water -

Posted Online Monday, October 5, 2009

December 30, 1841: Galleria Manfrin

A cold windy day with rain. After Italian Lezione went to the gallery in the the palazzo Manfrin - one of the best collection of paintings in Venice. Among those that struck me most was the dead Christ by Titian. Portrait of Queen Cornaro who gave up her Kingdom of Cypress to the Ventians in the 15th century - by the same master - a St. Cicelia by Carlo Dolce in his soft and delicate style, many things by Giorgione, whose portraits are so much in the style of Titian that I cannot tell the difference.

A Cartoon of Raphael covers the side of a room and represents Noah, his family, with animals and birds in pairs going into the ark. A curious and rather odd effect - but perhaps as well as the subject could be represented the colours are fresh and distinct after a lapse of three centuries -

Posted Online Sunday, October 4, 2009

December 28-29, 1841: Paintings of Mons De Levy

Went to see the collection of paintings of Mons De Levy - who buys & sells. Has a large palace full of various masters - some good, but mostly retouched. Also to several private houses, old families whose necessities probably compel them to sell, but who ask three times as much as they would be willing to take.

Count a little old man in a thread bare coat, has some good things among them Erodiade with John the Baptists head, which he is very willing to pass for a Guido.

The last of these days mailed letters for Rochester and Mr. Lindell, St. Louis -