Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Saturday, October 3, 2009

December 27, 1841: Purchase of Paintings

Received sister Saralis two letters the last dated Nov. 24th - have great pleasure in hearing from my dear friends. Poor Sarah still complains - am afraid the day is not distant when we shall have to lose my dear sister.

From David Weber, an old and respectable merchant of Venice, who says he sells off his gallery because his sons have no taste for paintings - purchased the following -

Madonna-infant Saviour & St. John - by Titian but retouched with frame

Lucretia - by Bassano

Boys head Deo with frame

Scipio Africana by Antonio Balestra Do

Sacra familia

Sea View - Coast of Greece with frame

Stewart & Revel - An Eng & french

Travello in Greece of the last century

Head of Saint - by Giuseppe Diamantini with frame

Ladies playing music by Giorgione some say Pietro Vecchia with frame

Brought these paintings in a gondola to my rooms with intention of packing & forwarding to English - wrote a long letter to Mr. Simos at Florence -

Posted Online Friday, October 2, 2009

December 26, 1841: Letter From Florence

The warmth and sun of yesterday have brought on angry clouds today, distilling themselves in copious and drenching rain. Received a letter from Florence from my friend Simos - who finds the capital of Tuscany quite dull and devoid of the usual amusements of the season. The court is in mourning for the death of the Arch Dukes eldest daughter. The 9 theaters are all to open today at the Pergola (this word means a vine harbour), the operas of the Huguenots and Robert le Diable had been to the venerable residence of Maccni ar elli, last winter the residence of Macchiar elli - last winter the residence of la bella Esthere.

The colombe solitaire has flown and in her place a family of bambini piccini says that poverty is but too visible at Florence. His 3rd visit but more enthusiastic in his admiration of the Fornarina, the Magdalena, the Cleopatra and other works of the great masters than ever. Will shortly pack and off for Naples where he understands is great concourse of fashionables.

At the opening of the Fenice this evening - a large and splendid theatre, crowded to excess, all the boxes filled. The first night of the season every body goes to the grand theatre at Venice, even if a family have to deprive themselves of necessities to pay for a loge, or pawn a piece of plate, rather than be so unfashionable as not to appear at the Teatro nobile.

The opera of Sappho did not seem to give much satisfaction, lie and the ballet was hissed. Was sorry for my favourite Madame Groll - she appeared quite dishearted at the fastidious Venetians. But, the music of the great Rubin was hissed at Venice at the commencement of his career. Got home to my rooms as late as one o'clock - five hours in a theatre entirely too long. The Signora mia padrona had arrived from the San enedetto two hours before -

Posted Online Thursday, October 1, 2009

December 25, 1841: Campanile of St. Mark

A fine day as ever was seen at Christmas - and all the world of Venice out on the Square San Marco - the Riva & the Guardino. The sky being bright & clean ascended Campanile of San Marco, and with the assistance of spy glass had an interesting view of the lagune surrounding Venice.

The main land on one side skirted by the distant snow covered alps - on the other, the littoral or narrow slip of land enclosing the lagune with the blue Adriatic beyond. The champagne country to the west and south covered with innumerable little towns & villages - the dome & towers of Padoue at a distance of 15 miles, and toward the north an indistinct glimpse of Trevi of sa, with the town of Chioggia to the south 20 miles distant.

The Campanile is of easy ascent - was built by the Doge Morosini. The second of that name rises to the height of 350 feet, serving as a landmark to the mariner as he approaches the low shores of the Venetian territory, and is celebrated as having being used by the great Galeleo to take his astronomical observations.

Dined at the table d'hote del Europa, invited Mr. Fornier my Italian tutor. Being Xmas day fared sumptuously - champagne and all manner of delicacies, a dish I never met with before the Italians call mostarda - fruit preserved with sugar & mustard. Rather warm for my pallet. Spent the evening pleasantly at Florian's - ladies in full toilette partaking of ices were among the company. A gay promenade to a late hour under the illuminated arcades of the Piazza, every body talking of the opening of the Grande Teatro noble - tomorrow night the opening of the season -

Posted Online Wednesday, September 30, 2009

December 24, 1841: Patriarch

Went to an old gentleman called Weber who has a collection of paintings and for sale. Also to Quirini, a grey headed artist - who though old, appeared to work hard - has a number of copies and originals for sale.

This evening Xmas eve, the bells are ringing merrily, the churches are illuminated. Went into Saint Marks, high mass was celebrating by the Patriarch - with vocal and instrumental music. The large wax tapers lighting up the old domes and arches, covered with gilded mosaics had a fine effect. The ceremony grand and imposing, it appears everything changes in Italy but religion.

The Doges, senators, & nobility are among the things past but the ecclesiastical ceremonies are still performed with the same zeal & splendor as a thousand years since. There are no Arch-bishops in Lombardy and Austria - the patriarchs are nominated by the Emperor and confirmed by the Pope -

Posted Online Tuesday, September 29, 2009

December 22-23, 1841: San Salvadore

The first of these days, rainy - only went to the piazza St. Mark and to the Vapore to dine. Today my padrona introduced me to an Armenian priest from the island of San Lazzaro, where they have a college for the instruction in the Armenian Language. The priest Doct. P Gregoni Alepson speaks French & Italian and invited me to the island, in sight of Venice a mile or two across the lagune -

Visited the church San Salvador - a noble edifice containing the monuments of two Doges - and a picture by Titian painted when past ninety years of age. It appears the person for whom it was painted not being satisfied the brave old painter touched it over again and subscribed his name at the bottom fecit. But, what could be expected from a man of such advanced years - but what is most beautiful in San Salvador is the pavement of highly polished, red black & white marble -

Posted Online Monday, September 28, 2009

December 21, 1841: The Violante

Purchased the Violante of Paris Bordone late in the collection of the cabinet of the deceased Sig. Guspero Gruglietto of Venice. It has been engraved by Antonio Viviani. Pope Alexander the 3rd in the l2th century distressed & persecuted by the emperor Frederick Barbarossa - came to Venice in disguise - went to the porch of a convent where he passed a night and for three days served as a menial in the Kitchen.

Venice & the Doge espoused his cause. A red marble in the pavement of the vestibule of St. Marks is shown as the place where Barbarossa came and made his obeisance the Pope treading on his neck -

Posted Online Sunday, September 27, 2009

December 19-20, 1841: Venician Palaces

The unfavourable weather still continues - warm & moist. People here call it the Sirocco. Yesterday, Sunday - after my Italian studies took a walk - past the ducal palace, along the Riva Schiavone to the Grindini publici few people out. The Venetian ladies don't like to wet their feet. Dined at the Trattoria Vapore - indifferent. Only one theatre open, the Malibran - the play of Marco Viscoati, met a poor reception.

Today, Monday - the sun shone out a little - sought for Carraras tomb in the church San Stefano, but without success. Carrura, the last Lord of Padua was together with his children cruelly and treacherously put to death by the Venetian Senate.

The old palaces, convents, & churches of Venice, now no longer occupied are put to various uses, different from their original destination. Some are in ruins and not used at all - some churches are used as lumber yards. One old palace in the Square San Salvadore is occupied by an old antiquarian - who I am told has spent a fortune in filling it with old pictures, statues (mutilated) arms, armour, furniture, etc. etc.

Went in and never beheld such an assemblage of old fashioned trumpery - the proprietor himself quite an original, called some of his old paintings - Guido's & P Veronese's -