There is a change in the weather, the water in the canals has risen and threatens to inundate some of the streets - caused by the wind out at the sea backing up the water into the lagune or lakes on which Venice is situated. From observations taken, the sea gains on the land in this part of the Adriatic - at the rate 4 mis per hundred years.

The place Saint Mark has once been raised a foot and a half - some roman remains have been found near 6 feet under the water which once were even with the surface. This morning we had thunder and lightning and rain has poured down ever since -

In the fifth century there were two Doges Barbarigo - on the grand canal opposite my palace, (I say mine for I am at this time the only occupant of the front part of the Garzoni palace. The residence of one of the Doges is now visited by the stranger to see the large and well known painting of Paul Veronese in which the painter has so nobly represented the family of Darius at the feet of Alexander.

Close by is the residence of the other doge Barbarigo, but afterwards inhabited by a man of far greater fame. We were shown into a room the ceiling of which had been formerly richly gilt and carved, here the great Titian worked and at his death the well known chef d'arvie of the Magdeline remained where we saw it, but three centuries have had their effect - the colors are blackened and have lost their beauty.

Close by is the Venus with her lovely countenance and many other works of the same artist - an artist was taking copies and for which he asks the liberal price of fifty Nanoleons each -

Called on a Mr. Brown, whom the consul tells me is an American artist - an old woman answered the bell from a window of the 4th story, "non ze a vedere" Mr. B will have to change his colour before I call on him again. Made some further purchases of the Italian books - Italian lessons as usual & history of Venice - [Dec. 14]

Another visit to the academy delle Belle Arti - few or no visitors there today. It appears to me there but few strangers in Venice - no English that I see at all. Dined at the vapore - soup, pilaf, beefsteak, roast veal & salad - charlotte de pommes & wine, for 2-1'2 lires. At the best restaurateur in Venice - which is not saying much [Dec. 15]

The churches of Venice are the mausoleums of the ancient doges and senators, many of whom figure in history. They are also conservatories of the works of her great artists, and now more so than the church of St. Giovanni & Paulo, which forms one side of a square of the same name, or campo as they are called in Venice. For Saint Mark by way of distinction is alone called Piazza - in the Campo Stances the equestrian statue of Colleoni in bronze, which all who have seen the opera of Manno Faliere must have noticed in the scenery.

Under the wall of the church is a tomb with an obliterated inscription, here was deposed the body of the decapitated Doge Falier. The church is full of monuments Mocingo's & other Doges whose naval victories and military achievements in Greece, Syria & Constan are pompously set forth in their epitaphs.

Among the paintings are some lovely things of Bellini, Tintoretti, etc. - but the birth of our Saviour by Paul Veronese, struck my attention the most. Beside the meek & lowly Mary there is a countryman stooping down & resting on one hand, looking at the infant - than which nothing can be more true & natural.

Attached to the church is the chapel of the Rosario - the life the virgin cut in alto basso relievo in white marble - a work of wonder & admiration -

Went last evening to the Theatre San Benedetto - it was the first appearance of a young Venetian prima donna in the Son mbula. The crowd great, and applause beyond bounds. The Venetians are forward to encourage their compatriots & applause costs nothing, not even gloved at Venice.

Some beautiful languishing eyes in the boxes - the two pretty sisters, one of whom Simos was so taken with. Brava Signorina queste pome di paradiso, bellissimo sono, e buoni frutti non sono fatte pu nas condere. A continuance of the same fine weather - military music on the Piazza San Marco. Dined at the table d'hote of the Europa in company with Mr. Risch, a young German gentleman. Retired early to my room, wrote a long letter to Mr. Lindell -

Reading as yesterday - in the evening at the theatre Malibron - the tragedy of Medea & Jason was performed - theatre cold and uncomfortable - [Dec. 10]

My fellow travelers Mess— Simos & Bouba left Venice this day for Bologna & Florence - we have been together since meeting on the Graben the 7th Ult, at Vienna - long enough for travelers - for variety is the very soul of traveling - [Dec. 11]

Commenced reading Corticelli - "Regole della lingua Toscana" - and history of Venice in the family library - mostly taken from Siprismondi - and affecting the style of Gibbon. These studied employed me till one o clock. Not far from Venice is the island of Giudecca, went over to see the church of the Redeemer - erected in 1576 - after the design of the great Venetian architect Palladio. It is plain, almost without ornament - but in respect to architecture is considered the best in Venice. Without fault - the alters are adorned with the works of Bussano and Tintoretto - in the sacristy there are three paintings of Giovanni Bellini one of them the Virgin Mary bending over the infant Saviour sleeping - with two little angels. A work of such grace & loveliness - that I was never tired of looking it it. Bravo Giovanni - may God bless thy soul - for it did mine good, to look on the meek and heavenly face of the mother of God -

Returning to the city went into the church of I Gesuati - rich in marbles & sculpture - the principal alter resplendent with Lapis lazuli - cost 70,000 ducats near a century ago & at the sole expense of a Doge - it is now thought - it would cost more double as much owing to the greater scarcity of Lapis lazuli -