Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Saturday, August 22, 2009

November 2, 1841: Augustins church

In the Augustins church the military officers attend in uniform and mass performed for those that fell in the field of battle at Aspern, Wagrum, & Obnitz - in the midst of the church was a cenotaph of arms - which by the inscriptions I judged to be of those that were killed - no officers of high rank were slain, which does not speak well of the Austrian comanders -query - does a day pass without the archduke Charles' throughts receiving to Wagram - after my German lesson went to the Schwarze Adler - dined at the Casino - at the theatre sat next a man who said he knew french well, but for want of practice spoke it badly - pretended to know how the wings of the Sylphide were moved, but concluded he knew as little of the matter as myself - in the corps de ballet - observed

Jeannetta - the Madchen - that Kadame demont introduced me to - she is not one of the best dancers tho young and sprightly -

Posted Online Friday, August 21, 2009

November 1, 1841: All Saints

This is a holiday - All Saints - the shops are shut and business suspended - at 12 o clock went to the concert of Herrn Ritter - a somewhat celebrated flute player - it was held in a music hall called the Musikfreund. A rainy day few attended - the court were not there as expected.

In the evening went to hear (rather see performed) Shakspeare's Hamlet in German at the Burg theater in the palace - the court were there and the little house crowded - Herr Lowe performed the part of Hamlet, and appeared to give great satisfaction - the play scene was admirably done - (blank) performed Ophelia in a very affecting manner.

In many parts of the performance the audience were so interested that the falling of a pin might have been heard and Ophelia drew tears in the eyes of some - the grave diggers scene is omitted there is some objection to it, either political or religious - those admirable translations of Shakspeare are by (blank) and rank among the highest productions of the German drama - the access to this theatre is thro a laberynth of passages - in case of fire or an alarm the effect would be dreadfull.

Posted Online Thursday, August 20, 2009

October 31, 1841: Church

Went into the church belonging to the order of the Redemptorists or Liguoriansnear the Salzgries - one of the oldest churches in Vienna commenced in 882 all that attend a german mass - join in the chanting - in a loud voice which has a solemn and devout effect in these old large churches - the german has not the humble devotion of the Italian - but the hearty manner denotes sincerity - the churches have few fine paintings - and both internally and externally are more substantial than ornamental - - dined at the Casino - at 3 took a fiacre and went to Shonbrun in company with Q who took great pains to teach me the german pronunciation - walked about the gardens and to the menagerie - returned at six.

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Posted Online Wednesday, August 19, 2009

October 30, 1841: Mr. and Mrs. S

Cloudy weather with rain - remained two hours with my German teacher - dined at the Goldenen Lamm Leopoldstadt - in the evening by invitation attended a wedding party at Mr. Sengels house 995 Anaragasse - Mr. S. has no children, the marriage of a niece was celebrated at his house - when I got there the ceremony had been performed at the church - and the company returned - was received by Mr. Sengel very cordially and introduced to Mrs. S. - then to the flower bedecked Bride - and some twenty ladies, nieces and relations of Mr. Sengel.

Mrs. S. speaks Italian, she had frequently (word left out apparently) her husband speak of me, of our excursion together into the crater of Vesuvius and other places in Rome and Naples - several of the other Indies spoke Italian and french - one young lady in particular a niece of Mr. S. - spoke french very fluently - and very talkative she was - was somewhat of a traveller, had crossed the Adriatic to Venice - spoke of Paris and how much she desired to see it -- according to her ideas Paris was a terrestial paradise - was surprised or rather doubted my taste when I told her I preferred Vienna.

Another young lady played the harp with pedals - apparently a very difficult instrument - but played accurately and in fine style by the young lady, who they tell me is only fourteen - several of them sang and -played the piano, which they call a clavecire at Vienna - the young ladies were very gay indeed - and enjoyed themselves in great style - cannot say that any of them are as handsome as the amiable Caroline in the Platzel - her beautifull mouth and white regular teeth - like pearls in the midst of Roses - an oval face, rather pale - eyes modest, but of celestial lustre - arched by regular delicately penciled eye brows - hair, fine & silky - dark brown - neck and bosom whiter than the drifted snow - in person small and delicate with hands and feet beautifully proportioned.

If another Paris had to award the golden apple she would by great odds carry off the prize - but if these young ladies have not the beauty of the Venus, they have a charm, a grace - that makes them admired and esteemed - chastity which Armate eran con lei tutte le sue Chiare virtuti, O gloriosa schiera! Etemansi pu mano a due a due Petrarca - Trionfo della Castita then they danced quadrills - but to waltzing the national dance of Germany they appeared to give a decided preference - all joined in the watlz - old & young - and also a priest who happened to be of the party - when he began to spin round Mr. S. clapped hands saying to me - voyaz done le pietre.

There was an old general there - who has been in Sicily and 20 years in the North of Italy in the Austrian service - he described to me the fortifications of Verona - detached forts each mounting several heavy cannon - a plan for the rendevous of troops - being the key to the passes of the Tyrolese Alps - the most amusing of the evenings diversions was the investing the bridegroom with the order of the pantoufle Mr. S. put the slipper round his neck - and opening a large paper - ornamented with a picture of a man in a cage - and the patent (in German) investing; him as Knight in the Order of Henpecked husbands - of course I understood but little of what was read, but the company were highly amused at the joke - ices, etc. were handed round - a little before twelve I took my departure much pleased with the sociability and gaity of German society.

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Posted Online Tuesday, August 18, 2009

October 29, 1841: Actors in Germany

Joss Statam Blazel beim Schwartzen Adlar in 1 Carolina - with this direction in German found my way to the distant Suburb of Josephstadt. The houses in the suburbs are not numbered but each porte cochere is distinguished by a sign - when arrived at the Platzel - had great difficulty in finding the Black Eagle - from bad pronunciation of the german - and among so many doors had difficulty in finding the right one - and then at the house - had some difficulty - however at last Miss Caroline was called - to her alone would I shew the address and she immediately recognised the handwriting.

In the evening went to the Burg theatre - a small but rather handsome theatre in the palace - here the plays of Shakspeare translated into German are frequently performed and by the best actors in Germany - this evening the piece performed waa Corregio - the events of the life of the pointer, dramaticized - at least as far as I was able to understand - the poor painter appeared to me too much like a puling child - the audience were highly respectable - the men in attendance dressed in handsome uniform.

Posted Online Monday, August 17, 2009

October 27-28, 1841: Days spent the same way

Spent both these days, nearly in the same way - the weather is fine - walked out on the Glacis and bastions - at eleven went to Mr. Nossek the German teacher - find him a man of talent - has read many English authors - and writes and understands English much better than he speaks- is translating Goldsmith - am surprised to hear there have been no less than eleven editions of the translation of Byron - and such is the demand that quarter part of last edition is sold - at the Karnthnor Thor Theatre .

The opera of I Puritani was performed in German - music excellent except the tenore which was a failure - dined at the table d'hote at the Gasthof Zum London - fell in with a young Englishman called Morland - who is come in quest of a commission in the Austrian cavalry - says there are three hundred English officers in the Austrian service - Mr. M. does not speak a word of German how can he be competent to offices German Soldiers

Posted Online Sunday, August 16, 2009

October 26, 1841: German lessons

Found a master for the German language Mr. Nossek - in Blntgasse street - took the first lesson today - its a serious undertaking to learn a language - but Viave lately been at such a loss - that shall make an effort - dined at the Casino - where I invited Mr. Sengel - a good dinner - pleasant & Champaign - which Mr. S. says is made in the country - described to me the characters of several gentlemen that came into the Casino - one old gentleman at an adjoining table who has been the gayest man in Vienna jrining in the balls and parties - and visiting the theatres - is now near seventy and a bachelor - e si dice che non ha giammai aleu na donna toccato - una docu veremunti v incredebele - in una citta orn la castita e cm la castita e om la castita e rarissumma- there was also a general in the Austrian service & several hungarian noblemen - - -