Visited the picture gallery of Prince Lichtenstein - 1600 paintings occupying 25 rooms - being the entire palace in the Rossan suberb- among so many there are numbers of the Dutch & German schools that did not strike me as of much merit - there is one very good Raphael - and a holy family by Del Sarto - said to be his best - the three Marys by Leonardo da Vinci - and other great masters of the Italian School.

It occupied me three hours to go thro all the rooms, and then many of them I scarcely glanced at - there are too many - the collection was principally made 130 years ago - went to the lower building of the Belvidere palace to the Imperial Ambras (?) collection of original suits of armour of the middle ages - among them was that worn by Cosmo di Medici - and Pico di M'irandola - the catalogue in Herman - therefore did not get a description of many things.

(Here found the original of my painting of Sussanna and the Elders - by S-da-Pesaro - of the school of Guide - mine at St. Louis is in many respects equal to this ) in the evening went to the Imperial theater Karan Thor-(?) the performance was the ballet of Sylphide - prima ballarina - Farnia Cerito - a fine dancer and her first appearance - she is from Milan - the emperor and Empress were in- the royal lodge - as also the prince of Salerno a grey bearded old man - the audience was delighted and applauded tremendously - the emperor applauded, but observed in a feeble way - the empress kept her bonnet on - perhaps she does not approve of such exhibitions - for there were as many as forty or fifty dancers on the stage at once - dressed in a very voluptuous manner.

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By the railroad that goes to Obernitz - left at half post seven to visit fhe the plain of Wagram - which is situated to the North of Vienna - the road crosses the Danube on a wooden bridge - on the skirts of the mouatains to the north are several villages among them Klosterneuburg - celebrated for its wine - also for the richest convent in Austria perhaps in Europe - the road runs over a level plain all the way - in an hour came to the station of Wagram which is the 2nd from the city - a small village of some fifty houses - at a wine tavern procured bread and coffee - found a man to describe the field of battle - mounted the tour of the little church - from whence he pointed out to me the position of the french and Austrian forces in the battle Napoleons military science completely out generaled the Austrian commanders the Archduke Charles and Prince Lichtenstein who with eighty thousand men to oppose the french forty thousand, would have been made rrisoners if they had maintained the field two hours longer - my cicerone who was in the engagement says that in retreating the french followed them up firing after them with artillery and musketry - there were 12,000 austrians and 5,000 french killed at Wagram - five days after the battle, Napoleon returned and (?) the same town where I stood to view the field of battle - some miles distance the village of Aspum nearer to the Danube was visible - here was a hard fought battle - on 22nd May - Wagram took place 6th July l809 - there is no monument to indicate where the bones of these victims to Napoleons ambition lie interred after the view of the plains had to pass a tedious five hours waiting the return of the rail road cars - which were crowded with passengers - perhaps 400 or 600 - coming from Brunn - Obnitz, etc.

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Rose at seven - Sunday morn - early risers a Vienna - the streets filled with people some going to church and some to market - dressed, and walked out -took coffee at Daams - the proprietor a wealthy man and the largest establishment of this kind in Vienna -went t o Mr. Kriskers rooms - a musical reunion - played Haydn - pleased me better than last Sunday.

Went to mass at the chapel royal in the palace - saw the emperor and empress - they were sitting at the window of a gallery looking into the chapel - his majesty is a little man rather insignificant inexpressive features - and in manner and jesture undignified -the empress is a good looking lady about thirty - an Italian look - of piedentontese extraction - brunette, rather lean intelligent look -a lovely mouth - very devout during mass held her hands in a very pious manner -crossing herself frequently.

Etienna says she has the name of being a bigot - no wonder for she has no children - the (blank space) of the emperor puts him beyond all suspicion of having mistresses.

Chapel over, walked two miles to the rail road station for Brunn , with an intention of visiting the plain of Wagram - was disappointed the cars had started - went to the pleasure garden ca1led the Colliseum every invention that could he thought of is here put in requisition for the amusement of the publick - with dancing end music, etc. etc. - some fine Sundays & holidays it is visited by one or two thousand persons.

Dined at the Casino Nobile - find Austrian wines milder than Hungarian - shall therefore give them the preference in future - Johannsherger from Prince Metternichs estate is marked on the cente 8 florins per bottle (1' 1'St. g) after dinner took a barouche and went to Shonbrun - accompanied by my lackey Etinne - the streets of the suburbs crowded with well dressed people-and the road from the city to the palace thronged with carriages and pedestrians.

The road watered all the way to lay the dust - walked in the ralace gardens - and then went to a celebrated restaurateaur at Hintzing an adjoining village - entering the large and elegant rooms of the restaurataur one of the gayest sights opened to my view that 1 ever cast my eyes upon - nearly fifty tables of from 4 to 10 each, of elegantly dressed ladies and gentlemen - some were dining - others partaking of ices, fruit etc. and one of the finest bands of music 1 ever heard - the leader a comretetor of Strauss his neme is Samror - this is called a Reunion and is announced publicly by handbills - with the music to be performed the German women join with such gaity and freedom on these occasions - as to render these reunions delightful and they seem to enjoy the music so much - they bring their children handsomely and tastefully dress't - that altogether the Germans are a most sociable pleasure seeking people.

Drove back to the city - in the imperial Garden in front of the palace - and between it and the Bastion is a Kaffahaus - built in form of a semi circle - and open only on Sundays and holidays - here the music Kind of Vienna - the celebrated Strauss gives his concerts - paid my ten Kreutzers on entering and pushed in among the crowd - in the middle of the semi circular room on a stage were the musicians - and in front was a small strait limbed neatly made man dressed in black leading the music with a graceful but energetic motion with a keen blank but rather squinting eye, fired on the auditors before him - this was Strauss playing music of his own composition - the company promenaded the rooms - fashionable dandies and ladies gay and charming - -

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The weather grows gradually colder - purchased a paltot - as in coming out of a coffee room or theatre in an evening it is necessary to wear an overcoat - this morning visited the Imperial polytechnic Schael - a magnificent institution which does honour to the memory of its founder the late emperor Francis - in addition to the technical there is a commercial department for instructing and forming youth to all branches of commerce and trade - there is a collection of models and specimens of all the manufactures and productions of the Austrian empire - all admirable arranged in glass cases - among them I particularly noticed:

• Carpets, Rugs & merinoes made at Lintz
• Coarse clothes made at Brunn
• Thread - from Silesia
• Large plate mirror abt. 10'5 ft. - not as goood as the french made at Neahana -
• Cut Glass- from Bohemia - one tumbler valued at 4'00 florins
• Earthenware from Newstadt - very dear
• Porcelain - very fine made at the imperial manuf. of Josephsplatz
• Files - some fine - but generally not as good as Eng from Upper Austria
• Ornaments of Cast iron - made at Vienna
• Blankets - fine wool & thick made at Gudia in Italy

With thousands of other things I know nothing about - tools for watch & clock makers and every other trade - many tools and machines of very expensive kind.

Questa sera ha futro una altru visitu al Sig Carlotta con quella e la sud sorella ha accompagnato del Teatro l'altra sera caru mia la tun semplecita d-i maniere, m'a molto piuciuta - pacha non vuole tu dil mia amore - tre volts te ho fatto visitu e tu non responde a nra desire or vedo, amor che giovinetta donna Tuo regno spizza, e del mio mal non cara"

Nun protera cupiscen, non parla chi pochi parole Itali_no - ou-ndo parlo del amore - dies chi non intende che cos'a e I'-more, m^ fa musics sal piano e c ntu - che puitosto fa increscere il mal cha" spegnerlo - la music° usee della camera, re rrrnda una donna, portando una carta con quiste parole scutti - Carlotta est age quinze ans - elle est nino cente.

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This has been quite a busy day with me - up by six - at seven on the railroad car on the road to Baden - celebrated for its medicinal baths and picturesque scenery - in Cars 1st class were some half doz gentlemen - most of whom spoke french - it appears that a knowledge of French is mostly confined to the upper classes in Vienna - the frequenters of the Casino Nobile - the Imperial Theatre, etc.

Baden is 16 miles from the city - we were 1-1/4 hours in going - my companions enquired of me how I found the road in comparison to the French & English - the road is substantially constructed the property of the Rothschild and another banker - and quite equal to the French road from Paris to Versailles - arrived at the pleasant but irregular built village - breakfasted on coffee and roll - looked in at one of the Badens (Bath) warm sulphurous water - disagreable to the smell - there are seats and benches to sit in the water and in the Tublick baths members bathe together and or both sexes - these thermal waters were known to the Romans under the name of Therince Pannonica- went first to the summer mansion of the archduke Charles called Weilbeagh (?) on the outskirts of the Village - mounted the hill on the top of which is a ruined castle

A view of Baden and the surrounding villages - with the archduke palace & gardens at the foot - from thence to the pretty valley of Helenthal - crossing the little river Schwoehet meandering between the hills on the tops of which are ruined towers either real or artificial - from Rauhenstein an old ruin is a fine view of Vienna the plain of the Danube but Vienna is hid by a mountain - on these hillsides a celebrated Austrian wine called Vesler is produced - Baden in summer is a gay busy place -but at this season is deserted - there is a theatre and assembly rooms - walked through the Schloss garden and park - places much frequented by the late Emperor - but never visited by the present monarch - since he was shot at some years ago by a vagabond soldier.

A fine sunshine but keen air - so that my three hours stay at the pretty town of Baden was pleasant enough - at 12 got again on the railroad and returned 2 stations distance to Modluag - a small town of ancient origin - back of which is a most beautiful wild spot called the Briel - a narrow valley in which are situated neat country residences with tall fantastic rocks to the right and left - after passing the narrow defile an extensive valley opened to view conical pine.

Clad Kill is the poor remains of the castle of Madling which the old prince de Leichenstein has saved from entire ruin by erecting a modern ruin in the place of it - ruins seem to have been in favour with the late prince as he has crooned the summit of every hill with them

Walked some two or three miles on the estate of the prince among plantations and gravelled walks - came to the castle of Leichteaateia - from whence is a view of Vienna-- and the Glorietta at Shonbrun -nearby is the amphitheater a modern ruin - and the village of Brunn am Gebirge - calabretad all over Austria for its wine - by this time had been walking near six hours - quita tired - took glass of beer at a rustic Kaffehauz - and got on the railroad to return to the city at three o'clock.

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Yesterday and today have employed a lackey instead of a valet di place - and a very genteel fellow he is - well dressed and of respectable deportment - a Belgian but has been nine years in Vienna - and says that for most of the time in the service of Baron DeGrasse - at 12 o clock took a fiacre and went to the imperial palace of Schonbrun - near an hours drive from the city - and a beautiful place it is - made so by Maria Theresa when she came to the throne, and which she occupied as her summer residence - the architecture of the palace, does not strike me as equal to Versailles or Caserta near Naples - but the gardens have a finer affect - into which there is an entrance by an open arched Hall supported by pillars on an eminence in the garden is a fancy building called the Glorietta - composed of a collonade of Doric pillars - light - airy and gracefull - from the top lays before one the palace, the garden & trees beautified with the tints of autumn - the trees form tlleya - cut with the greatest symmetry - and to a hit I never saw before - particularly an allay of majestic old lime trees stretching the whole length of the garden there is also menagerie of wild beasts and botanical Garden - in a wing- of the palace my lackey pointed out to me the windows of the apartment occupied by Napoleon when he beseiged Vienna in l809 - in the same apartment his son the Duc de Reistadt died - - drank of the water of the fountain from whence Shonhrun (the beautiful fountain) takes its name - and so took leave of the imperial residence without however seeing the emperor - in the evening went to the Karisthuer Thor to hear the Opera of Belidarius - the primma donna sang with great power - as also did ( blank space) that performed the part of Belidarius the music of this opera pleased me very much - the last time I heard it was at the pergola at Florence - L, Onger & Moriani were the artists - these germans approach if not quite equal the celebrated Italians - -

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Walked out early as usual this morning passing through the city and out at the Burg Thor - in front of the imperial palace is a parade ground & public garden - where is a building called the heseum - erected to contain Canovas Status of Theseus killing the centaur - I consider the centaur good - but the Theseus very tame - none of the masculine energy of Michelangelo - whose Moses in the church of Pietro in Vincoli is perhaps the finest piece of modern statuary in existence - indeed I prefer it to the exaggerated muscular figure of the Faranese Hercules at Naples - visited the gallery of paintings of Count Schonborn - small but choice Carlo Dolce's Lady at Study - soft and gracefull- afterwards went to the palace of Prince Esterhazy in the suburb called Manahilf - the collection is extensive occupying fourteen rooms - the old valet that shews them is quite a conneseur - spoke French - these are of the different schools - of the Italian a fine L. DaVinci and a holy family of Andrea del Sarto - genuine but not as well finished as some of his work I saw at Rome and Naples, there is also a portrait of Caravaggio painted by himself at the bottom of which he has written

Da Caravaggio, son pittor meschino

Che il mio ritratto per un par di nolli

Qual lo vedete, Feci al Sansovino

of Sayders a Flemish painter there is a Viea defending her brood of chickens against a hawk - very well expresced - this gallery has a good many of the Spanish school - there is a Murillo lately purchased by prince Esterhazy for 1500 Ducats the Virgin Mary and the infant Jesus giving bread to an old man - better painting than the St. John & the Lamb lately purchased for the British gallery for L2000- passed the evening at the reading room

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