Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Friday, August 7, 2009

October 18, 1841: Imperial Palace

Visited the cabinet of medals at the imperial palace - coins of every age and nation - the largest gold medal struck on the marriage of Maria Teresa - the last lineal descendant of the house of Hapsbursh weighs 12bs there are some beautiful antique cameos - one representing Caaaar crowned by (?) said to be the finest in existance - In one of the suberbs of the city is the imperial castle of the Belvedere - a modern building and laid off in princely style with gardens ornamented with statuary after the Style of the Tuilleries - there I went to see the celebrated gallerv of raintings - but as I cannot describe the contents any more than that it it is probably the richest collection in Europe and pleased me more than the one at the Louvre it contains 3,000 pictures large and small occupying the entire palace - there art admirable specimens of all the principal schools in Flemish - Dutch Italian and German - I particulary noticed the following- -

Italian School

Holy Family by Raphael

Do Do " Del Sarto

Jupiter embracing (space) under a cloud Coreggio

Venus and the Shepherds— Arnmbale Curacci

Virgin Mary & infant Jesus - Guido

German School

2 heads an old man and woman - the nearest approach to nature I ever saw - by an arrtist of the name of Denners - N 1455 - N 1749

The Rubens are better finished than those at the Louvre at least so it appears to me - his three graces are entirly too stout - more like three stout matrons - had the pleasure of Mr. Krieskus company to dine with me at the Casino - after dinner walked in the Karnthuss Strasse and Kohlmarkt - the streets crowded with dandies and dashing girls as usual at this hour - Mr. K and my converse on1y in indifferent Italian & notwithstanding we kept company together for six hours today - a merry lively little fellow - went to the Theatre called the Wien - better decorated than the others - but nothing extraordinary -

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Posted Online Thursday, August 6, 2009

October 17, 1841: Sunday

Sunday morning went by anointment to Mr. Kreiskus rooms, where a reunion of musical amateurs gave - concert - the violin, piano and violin cello - Mr. K. playing the lafter instrumentof which he is passionately fond - from the concert went to the royal chapel in the palace - being without a guide had some difficulty in finding it - must have asked forty persons for the capella reale without baing understood - there being 30,000 Italians in Vienna must be a mistake - unless they are of the lowest class - the mass was sung much in the same style as at the Sistiaa chapel at the Vatican - the boys voices were beautifully soft - enjoyed the music much more than that of Mr. Kreiskus concert - the chapel is very small and crowded - some of the royal family were present, but the females beincr in dress .like other ladies could not distinguish them -- dined at the Casino - distinguished as the restaurateur nobile - a large and beautiful room - about 20 tables - most of which were occupied by people of the first class - a a number of ladies - this mode of dining is quite fashionable at Vienna - the dishes and wines are a la carte, with the prices annexed - for potage - bouillion roast partriga tourte (?) framcasie and fruit - with a half bottle of the best Hungarian - also parmesan paid something less than 2 florins (4 - the best dinner I have had since hte Trois Frares provincaaux at the ralais royal in Paris - which cost near 20 francs, if I recollect aright - in the afternoon took a long- walk in the prater a publick promenade and park on the outskirts of the Leopolstadt suburbs - there are long avenues of trees and gravel walks - went as far as the outer arm of the Danube which in sise is about the same as the one running under the walls of the city - - in another part of the Pratar is the fine work plan - show booths are erected, taverns, coffee houses merry go rounds - and a number of other such entertaining things - in one place a band of music was playing & in another were comic players performing - to some thousands of the merriest, contented people I ever saw servants & working people who resort to the prater on Sundays & holidays to pass a merry hour -

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Posted Online Wednesday, August 5, 2009

October 16, 1841: Sightseeing

Went about today sightseeing - but shall scarcely make an attempt to describe or name the infinite number of objects that I glanced at - the first piece wss the Imperial Treasury containing the various imperial regulia, crowns, sceptres, etc. with ancient and modern curiosities and objects of art of all sorts - iewells, end precious ornaments - here I was at a great loss as the Keeper spoke nothing but germen - a lady speaking frencb who was among the visitors kindly undertook to make explanations to me - then went to the Arsenal - and was in the same predicament - as to language es in the Treasury - never saw such immense piles of muskets - 150,000 in fine bright condition and very teatefully arranged - here are also spoils of the Turks and the hat (?) & military coat of Schwarzenburg and other Austrian officers of celebrity - old coats of arms - flags taken in battle etc. etc. - Then to the part of the palace where the imperial carriages are deposited - most luxuriously and gaudy affairs - the largest & finest is the carriage of Maria Theresa - the pannels of which are paintings beautifully executed from classic there is also the carriage that Napoleon came in to Milan in - and a number of sleighs of the richest materials and most costly workmanship - also the imperial mineralogical cabinet - three halls containing more than 100,000 specimens from every part of the world - very interesting and instructive - every facility is afforded for admittance to the public - as also to the zoological & botanical cabinet occupying 25 halls end rooms & numbering many thousand specimens of birds, animals, fish etc. from the elephant down to the most diminutive species -

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Posted Online Tuesday, August 4, 2009

October 15, 1841: Luxenburgh

Took a carriage and drove to Luxenburgh an hours ride - it is an inroerial domain - the emperors castle is a building of the 14th century the grounds are large, planted with trees and a large garden end extensive fish ponds - there are pretty pavillions a temple in good teste built by Maria Theresa - and one called the temple of Diana - but the most interesting is the Knights Qastle which stands in a lake and to which I went ina a boat - it is an exact representation of a strong hold of the middle ages - and contains a vast number of arms and furniture of ancient date - some trophies taken from the turks in their last attack on Vienna when they were routed - there is a dungeon deep and dreadfull and a figure of a Knight Templar in chains- which looks horridly natural the emporer visits Saxenbugh sometimes in the summer season - in the evening went to the Karnthur Thor Teatre- a comedy and ballet - in which a most gracefull prima Ballerina performed Madme (blank space) the piece was very long but she went through it with spirit - she had pretty features - particularly her mouth where the rose and the lilly vied with one another in sweetness end beauty- person all de1icacy and symmetry - the theatre dirty and indifferent the ladies in the boxes not in full dress and few young and handsome am disappointed in the Theatres of Vienna -

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Posted Online Monday, August 3, 2009

October 14, 1841: Danube

This morning found our hotel close to that arm of the Danube that runs under the walls of the city (Drawing of map here) as marked in the preceding skebh by a cross - my first business was to find out Mr. Krisker and Mr. Lingel two gentlemen that I travelled with in Rome and Naples - and being some weeks together became very intimate - the former I found at his lodgings - situated in an immense large building tenanted by I think fifteen hundred persons - he was employed just as he told me - alone and playing the violincello - to which he is ardently attached - he received me most cordially - as also did Mr. Singel - whom I found at the palace of the Archduke Charles in whose library he is inspector - the library is on a magnificent scale - at the door met the Archduke coming out followed by three young men his sons - who did me the honour to salute me - tho a stranger they knew nothing of - certainly never was before among such a polite people as the people of this imperial capital - Mr. Singel took me to the reading room and inscribed my name as a visitor - my valet de place took me to the different parts of Vienna - to the dom Kirk or Cathedral and other churches also on the batteries that surround the city, which are most agreable promenades- - in the evening parted with my Neapolitan friend - happy fellow - a lady came in her carriage and took him sway-to Klosterneuburg a few miles from the city - promises to call on me when he comes to town - his manners and disposition please me much - and is evidently a man of good education - he also has been at the Florenceconvention of Sur and (space) in the evening went to the minor theatre in the Leopoldstadt - low comedy in the Austrian dialect and pantomime rather vulgar - theatre indifferent - music good - -

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Posted Online Sunday, August 2, 2009

October 13, 1841: Passed through Neustadt

A tedious night got quite cramped remaining so long without getting out of the diligence - breakfasted at a little town called Schottvien - and then ascended for several hours the mountains that divide Syria from Austria - a monument on the top marks the division - the summits of the Semmerung are covered with snow - the air chilly - did not remain long on the mountains - but descended to a champaign country which continued on to the Danube- passed thro Neustadt were we dined and here the new railroad to Vienna commences - in the construction of the part that remains unfinished saw a number of women employed - digging and wheeling away the earth - alas for the sex in Austria as we approached the imperial city, the number of villages increased - there are many large buildings - where steam is employed - either cotton or woolen factories - did not arrive until dark - and were detained some time at the outer boundary by the police officers who were very particular enquiring our professions and so on - crossed the large suburb of Josephstaat (?) and crossing the glacis entered the city by the Kaenther gate - myself and Doctor Francesco Vingiani of Naples took our lodgings together at the Gbldenen Lamm in the Leopolstadt - weary and tired with the four days journey - retired early to bed -

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