Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Saturday, July 11, 2009

September 21, 1841: Lippizza

Took a carriage this morning to visit the Emperors stud of horses at - a
place about 10 miles from Trieste - was in company of Mr. Sawrell - ascending the hills west of say east of the city ~ had a fine view of the country, seats and pardens in the valley below - the stables at Lippizza are neither spacious nor elegant, but there are some very fine horses - stallions of Arabian, English, Bohemian and Istrian blood - the largest was a noble fellow of Bohemian and Arabian breed - the Istrian horse is a very fine animal - they shewed us an old grey, stricken in years (I think 24) as a horse the son of Napoleon used to ride - - in one buildins: some 40 or 50 colors of choice blood were shown to us - on going among them we found them very gentle and olayfull - none exceeded a year old - Lippizza has been an imperial stable for several centuries - returned to town - dined at the restaurateur La Regina dello Grecia - alla carta in the evening went to fhe Anfiteatro Mauroner - in company with Signor Guiseppe Lofari - a young man from Rome who came from Ancona in company with us - this theatre is a circus the floor of which serves for a pit - the elevated seats around are occupied by ladies alone - and this evening was well filled and had a fine effect - the opera was the Turco in Italia - music of Rosini - and the first representation of the historical ballet of Louis the Xlth - by a new ballet company - the prima Ballerina danced with castanets very gracefully and gained lots of applause - some of the female chorus dancers were very young and of course, were deficient in form and effect the scenery of the ballo storico was grand, only exceeded by that I saw at the grand opera at Paris - in the Juive (?)

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Posted Online Friday, July 10, 2009

September 20, 1841: Ashore

By seven this morning it was announced to us that we might go ashore - the officers came to visit our luggage - Trieste is a free port for everything except tobacco - myself and Mr. Sawrell an english gentleman found beautifull rooms in the 3rd story of Prince Metternich - this hotel is built and conducted by a conrrany - and is one of the finest establishments in Europe - they can furnish 200 beds - dinner is at the table d'hote - and supper a la carte or privately; there are fresh & salt water baths, a cabinet de lecture and every convenience and luxury attached - the table d'hote costs 3 francs - and my room 2 francs per day - such a room in London cost me 6/ - per diem - took a long walk round the town - notwithstanding the commercial embarassments many buildings are going up - particularly a Bazar - on a gigantic scale - the new town is regularly built and all the streets beautifully paved with large paving stones like Florence - most of the townspeople are Italians - but the country women that attend market are Istrians and speak a Sclavonian dialect (Drawing of woman) merchandise is mostly moved about on Trucks so that the streets are comparatively free from the noise of wheel carriages - on the whole am much pleased with the appearance of Trieste - in the evening went to the opera at the Teatro Grunde - the piece performed was Zampa musick of (blank space) - to my surprise the prima donna is a namesake, Maria Shaw, and of some reputation - the theatre is handsome and large - can't say the display of ladies was very good or equal to what I saw at Florence or Naples - -

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Posted Online Thursday, July 9, 2009

September 19, 1841: Port of Trieste

Passed this day in walking the deck of the Steamer at anchor in the port of Trieste - reading and looking with my spy glass at the busy people on shore - a large building close by is pointed out to us as the hotel Prince Metternich - newly built and on a grand scale, the steamer for Dalmatia went out of port this evening, much to my regret, as she does not make the voyage again untill 5th Oct. -in reading the Italian translation of Pausamies - in Attaca - says he forbears (six picture views here) describing the Eleusinian mysteries from a dream that he had that forewarned him - Quatremas de Ouinci has indeed reason for accusing him of superstition - tomorrow we are in pratica -


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Posted Online Wednesday, July 8, 2009

September 18, 1841: Shore of Istria

This morning were coasting along the shore of Istria - and by ten o clock cast anchor in the port of Trieste - there are ships of all sises - with fine lofty houses and warehouses along the Queys -everything denotes a place of great trade - the commercial metropolis of the austrian empire - here we have to perform a quarantine of two days on board the steamer - a very agreeable way indeed - as we have a clean boat, a good table and agreable company -

Posted Online Tuesday, July 7, 2009

September 17, 1841: Ancona

Went on deck this morning at anchor before Ancona - close to us is the temporary embellished pavillion - erected in the water from which Pope Gregory XVI gave his benediction to the city in his visit of last week - we understand many thousand persons were assembled from Romagna and the mark of Ancona to see his holiness - Ancona has a fine appearance from the water - on the ancient mole is the arch of Adrian its constructor - and on another mole the arch of Pope Clement XII - which together with the handsome Lazaretto was constructed by him - the country on the coast above Ancona is highly cultivated & beautifull - could see nearly to Sinigaglia - here we left the General and his amiable daughters to pass the next eight days in the Lazaretto - our steamer started in a heavy shower of rain as we sat down to dinner - after dinner the rain abated - the wind blew and the sea pitched - felt uneasy but resisted seasickness - so that am not now certainly so liable to it as formerly -

Posted Online Monday, July 6, 2009

September 16, 1841: Port of Ancona

After the rain last night the wind got up - and this morning the rough sea continued had difficulty in getting on deck without being sick but the fresh air recovered me - the ladies and nearly half the passengers are sea sick - all day out of sight of land sail up the Adriatic - nothing of interest occurred. Kept on deck most of the day in the fresh air to prevent being sick - passed several islands - one inhabited called (blank space) before morning we are to be in the port of Ancona for which we are bearing across the gulf -

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Posted Online Sunday, July 5, 2009

September 15, 1841: A Rainy Day

A rainy day and the first I have seen for a long time - took passage in the Austrian steamer for Trieste - embarked at one o clock taking leave of my companion Mr. Wall - at four sailed out of the Bay of Corfu - the cabin full of passengers among them General Sivaroli - of the Malta (blank space) and family - two stout daughters and their sons - they are bound for Ancona - there is an english courrier and wife - end Count Rozen and lady from Athens all bound to England, the rest are greek and Italian gentlemen - and a number of priests - bound for Ancona - -