Welcome to Henry's Travel Blog!

Although he kept detailed business papers, Missouri Botanical Garden founder Henry Shaw left little personal material for biographers to consider in analyzing his life. One of the few items which remain is a series of five journals. Following his retirement from the hardware business in 1840, Shaw traveled abroad and made notes, recollections, and even sketches in these small bound books. Join us as we chart Henry's journey to Europe and beyond.
 
Shaw's variable spellings, punctuation, and grammar, preserved throughout, are typical even for well-educated gentlemen in the 19th Century. Important note (4/14/09): The entries from March 11, 2009 through April 8, 2009, correspond to recently discovered text from Henry Shaw's journal. They will be posted online under the correct dates to preserve chronological accuracy.
 
   
   

Posted Online Saturday, June 6, 2009

August 17, 1841: Macchiavelli

Wrote a letter today to Uncle James Hoole in London - have become quite tired of my companion who is a fat lazy Greek - snores in his sleep - and when awake always coughing and spitting - besides other disagreeable habits - - finished reading Macchiavellis prince - which is a very learned production - and evidently the result of much study - and a pity that he could not have come to different conclusions - the first person of any note that condemned the work appears to have Cardinal Pole, - who passed thro Florence on his leaving England at the time Henry 8th separated from the church of Rome - and with very few exceptions has been condemned ever since - tho his principles have by no means ceased to be acted upon by princes and governments - - in the 7th Chapter of the prince - Macchiavelli holds up the actions of Casare Borgia as worthy of imitation - who by deceit - and pretended friendship - induces men to become his auxiliaries in arras and confide in him, for the purpose of putting them to death - which in its results turned out favourable to Borgia for a time - -

Chap X - The bad actions of men are mentioned and extenuated but not held up as examples of honest fame (?)

Chap XII - The putting to death of Cannignuola - their general by the Venetian senate a cruel and unprincipled act is here justified by Macchiavelli - - -

Chap XIII - Casare Borgio's cruelty and treachery in this chapter is defended and extolled as specimens of political Knowledge & sagacity -

Chap XIII - on military affairs - as reprehensible as are some of the preceding chapters so is this worthy of every attention - the precepts are unexceptionable -

Chap. XVI - reommmenda economy to the price (?) (May be prince - EF) but with some shew of liberality.

Chap. XVII - as military men the cruelty of Hannibal is approved of - and the humanity of Scipio blamed - says that the prince must consider men generally as ungratefull, changeable, deceitfull, avoiders of dangers and greedy of Gain - - -

Chap XVIII - Macchiavelli asserts that such is the wickedness of the people in his time- that for a prince to be humane, faithfull, honest and religious - he looses his reputation as well as his power - - but he must dissemble these virtues

Chap XX - on Fortifications - this chapter is replete with good sense - have the rulers of France decided on the fortreaaes of Paris - from these precepts?

The last chapter is a powerfull appeal to the house of Medici - to take up arras and restore unity to distracted Italy - and is full of patriotism - but in giving the people of Italy such a fine character he must have forgot what he said in preceding chapters of their wickedness and depravity - - -

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Posted Online Friday, June 5, 2009

August 16, 1841: Isle of Winds

This should be called the isle of winds it blows a gale all the time - with clear sky and bright sunshine - wrote a letter to my friend Mr. Sindell - in which had to notice the cruel murder of his nephew - Jess Barker by thieves who broke into his employers store to rob murdered the two young men and set fire to the premises -

Have commenced the celebrated work of Macchiavelli, II principi - which he dedicates to Lorenzo de Piero de Medici - and is the result of his Knowledge of the actions of great men acquired by long experience of the affairs of the world in modern times - and a continued study of ancient history - which with great diligence he had long thought upon and examined - considering that he could not offer a greater gift - than to give him the means in a short space of time all that he with so many inconveniences and jerils had attained the Knowledge of - and reasons against being thought presumptuous - that a man of his station - should discourse upon and regulate the government of princes - and prays Lorenzo to accept the little work with the same mind that he offers it - which by diligently reading and studying - would decern that his great desire was, that he should attain that greatness, which his fortune and other good qualities promised - and concludes by hoping that his highness would notice how he Macchiavelli, supports heavy and continued malignity of fortune - -

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Posted Online Thursday, June 4, 2009

August 15, 1841: Sunday

This is Sunday - the windmills which are eternally turning, on the point of rocks at the entrance of the port are stopped - in the next room to ours are two sisters of charity - who with a french priest - have collected, some few catholics who are in quarantine, and performing Mass - indeed we hear their little bell going every morning - they belong to Santorin - an island of the archipelago to the south of this - they are french and have been to Smyrna, where they have an establishment - one of their boxis (?) is directed La Seur Mia tres chere Seur Gosselin Centoria -

The greeks keep Sunday very strictly this is also a time of fast in the greek church - our old gardien - wont touch meat, he appears to subsist on bread and fruit - in the afternoon numbers of boats came over from the town - with visitors - they speak to their friends thro the bar - indeed some come every day one old gentleman has daughters who shew great attention in this respect - sent word to Mr. Evangeles that I am here - am afraid the late news from Candia will be quite discouraging to him - - -

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Posted Online Wednesday, June 3, 2009

August 13-14, 1841: Lazaretto

In confinement the days pass without variation - from a hard bed I rise early - before dressing go down to the sea and bathe - there is too much surf to swim indeed the wind blows constantly; the waves coming up in foam against the rocks that bound the Lazaretto - return to our room dress - read - then walk about in the yard in front of our venerable old gardian, who is to see that we do not come in contact with others - at ten take breakfast - brown bread ordinary greek wine - eggs, mutton (lean and indifferent)- figs & grapes - which are delicious—breakfast done resume Machiavelli - his history of Florence is written with great perspicuity and order, is very severe against the popes, when bad actions he criticises - whilst the treachery and want of principle in other potentates he passes frequently without - his characters of the Medici up to Lorenzo who was his contemporary are the portraits of a masterly hand -

Today and yesterday have written two letters one to ray parents and sisters - and another to Mr. F. Hoole - at 4 oclock go out side and sit and walk about - in front is the port - and above, the mountains, bare and sterile, with here and there a fig tree and a little hut on its sides - walking very unpleasant amongst loose rocks and stones - the lazaret is crowded - mostly greeks - seafaring people - at 6 o clock dinner - plain and indifferentnot varying much from breakfast - afterwards coffee - walk about, and read untill bed time - ten o clock - -

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Posted Online Tuesday, June 2, 2009

August 12, 1841: Quarantine

QUARANTINE - awoke this morning in the strange dress furnished me for spoglio the evening before - viz a check shirt - dark trowns (?) socks, slippers and gown, with a thick cotton night cap - our fumigation clothes are to be returned to us today at the expiration of the twenty four hours - there has been a strong wind all night, which blows almost a storm this morning - am curious to know how the minister and the ladies have fared in the cutter - must have had a rough night to toss about in such a small vessel -

The Lazaretto is pleasantly situated on the opposite side of the bay to the town of Hermonopolis - of which we have a cheerfull prospect and of the busy port - in the distance are the islands of Tinos - studded with villages on the slopes of the hills - and Mycone (?) - the five steamers in port last evening are all departed - viz two for Athens, one each to Smyrna - Alexandria, and Malta - have set to in good earnest with Macchiavelli: beginning with his Florentine history - - - found our clothes have acquired no disagreeable odour by the fumigation the books and papers were not even taken out of my trunk - -

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Posted Online Monday, June 1, 2009

August 11, 1841: Syra

In the habour of Syra - here we are ever since three o'clock this morning went on deck quite refreshed by the little of last evening - the quarantine ground is right before us - to receive those that remain here, or wish to go to any part of Greece - there are three french steamers in port to convey passengers to Malta, Alexandria & Smyrna - many of our companions going to France - proceed on to Malta to perform quarantine there - the Greek minister is provided with a government cutter to go to the Pirens (?) to perform his quarantine where he can communicate with his friends or on business - the (?) and ladies accompany him -

Find that the quarantine finished at Syra shall still be detained a week on the island waiting the Austrian boat to go to Corfu - requested the minister to be permitted to accompany him and perform quarantine at Pyreus, but not knowing that there would be accomodations on board the cutter - wished to see the captain first and if convenient would send for me at the Lazaretto - under this promise went to the Lazaretto - and waited several hours when seeing the cutter preparing to sail lost all hope of being sent for - took the only room unoccupied at the Lazaretto at Syra - gave up the contents of my trunks to be fumigated, along with the clothes that I had on - and went into the salt water bath - this is called Spoglio and reduces the term of quarantine from l4 days to nine - had not been more than half an hour out of the bath when the director sent for me saying the minister had sent for me to the cutter which was just on the point of sailing - shewing the card of address that I had left with him - and that he had sent a messenger two hours before, who mispronouncing my name in Greek -

The reply was that no one of that name was here - this was a sad disappointment to me - as now in my spoglio dress, and todo thes in fumigation could not possible get ready in any reasonable time for the cutter- - - myself and a greek gentleman Mr. (no name shown) have a room together in an airy situation, furnished with plain and necessary furniture - which is at a certain rent per day as also the provisions of the plainest sort at a stated list price - we have an old man who speaks a little Italian for a gardener and servant - to whom we pay a drachma & a half per diem - - -

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Posted Online Sunday, May 31, 2009

August 10, 1841: Leaving Smyrna

Fared little batter last night in regard to sleeping, than on board the Scananare - my room was a close hot place and sadly infested with bugs & mosquitoes - was glad when daylight appeared - thus early went in search of an Arrainian Jeweller with who I had yesterday priced some diamond rings - purchased one for 1750 Turkish piastres - and paid in Spanish dollars at 25 piastres each = 70 Dollars -

Found the arminian still in bed - but was soon up and ordered sweetmeats and coffee for me appologised that his wife was not up to do me the honours - went with him to the bazar where he keeps his jewellry and from thence on board the boat - which was already smoking - shewed my purchase to Cole Mustapha - who valued it at 1500 piastres - the Col is quite sociable and is going to Alexandria with dispatches, accompanied by several turkish soldiers, he was lately with Tahir Pasha to quell the disturbances in Candia, he says the rebels were unable to make any resistance as in several skirmishes numbers of them were killed and wounded - and the wounded had their wounds dressed their arms taken from them and sent home - not cruelly butchered as the Greeks have reported - only a few turkish soldiers were killed in each engagement -

Mustapha Bey is thirty three years of age speaks Italian, french and has some knowledge of Arabic, persian and the Tartar languages - he was educated in the modern military school established by the late Sultan Mahmood he says his nation is sadly in the decline they were once conquerors, and are now losing their acquisitions - among the lost provinces are Servia, Wallachia & Moldavia, Greece & Algiers - he says they have borrowed some of their customs of the greeks and fallen into some of their vices - the baths of Smyrna as being destroyed he says they were notorious as being attended by Greek boys -

By eight o clock we were under way and sailing out of the bay of Smyrna - the surrounding mountains have a much more parched appearance than two months ago - vegetation, and the grass that then covered is dried up - there has been no rain & none looked for untill September - still all kinds of fruit are in the greatest perfection and abundance - our breakfast table this morning was covered with grapes red & white of most delicious flavour - figs of the size of oranges bursting with the red & luscious pulp - melons of exquisite aroma - and for which Smyrna is famous - besides pomegranites plums, pears & filberts - an och of grapes (2-3/4 lbs) is sold at Smyrna for half a piastre (2 cents) so that the poorest enjoy the luxury of ripe and wholesome fruit - -

Out of the Bay of Smyrna we coasted along the island of Sciochesma in Asia was only very indistinctly visible - and is the place where the russians in the time of Catharine - captured a Turkish ship of war - one of our passengers was a native of Scio - and was greatly interested at the sight of it - having left when a child and at the commencement of their misfortunes - I lent him my spy glass - to view the pleasing prospect of the green slopes of the hills - but the ruin'd houses remained as monuments of its misfortunes -

The wind increased so that out of the channel that separates Scio from the continent the sea was quite rough - by evening the ladies had all left the deck, the gentlemen were quite uneasy - I remained on deck till near eleven trying to brave it out in my blanket capot, but at last gave it up - and turned in quite sick -

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