(Henry Shaw's personal map pictured right)

A cloudy wet morning - and remained in my room - about noon was conducted by Mr. Ruboli who has formerly acted as drayman or interpreter to respectable foreigners across the bay to the city -

Landing at the custom house - or the gate of the city called Walido Rapussi- from the mosque of the Walido close by - did not find the streets so much crowded as they were crooked and narrow - mosques and fountains sumptuous - but houses & shops mean - passed along the wall that divided the seraglio from the city to the gate or Porte - from which the court of Turkey is called the ottoman or sublime porte -

In the street saw a number of nairuls or porters loaded with bags of money - had no conductor or person in charge - such is the honesty of these men that they are entrusted with treasure - could we do the same in America? -

Gased externally at St. Sophia a turk sat waiting at the door - asked to go in was answered with a shake of the head - asked for portions of the crumbling mosaics- which the keepers of the mosque sell to strangers - purchased a piece for five piastras - offered him money to let us in - replied that if he were to do such a thing he should expect to be punished by banishment -

Little to be seen at the - inside it is now an open space about as large as the St. Louis market Square - the marble steps and balconies - and the statues brought from all parts of the world for its embellishment have long disappeared - what was not destroyed at the taking of the city by Baldwin and Dandolo - were used by the different Sultans in the construction of the mosks - the Egyptian obelisk is still erect - and as fresh as if just from under the sculptors chisel on a marble basement - and reused by the Emperor Theodosius -

The ground as in ancient Rome is much elevated above its original level as the basement is partly buried - there is another crumbling pillar close by - said to be formerly covered with brass plates - and to support the three brasen serpents - twined in the form of a column and now planted in the ground close by - and is of most remote antiquity - being brot from the temple of Delphi - leaving the Hippodrome - and the mosque of Sultan Achmed - came to a beautifull Mausoleum & fountain of Mahmoud - drank of this water out of a shining brass cup and to the repose of the soul of the deceased Sultan - the mausoleum and fountain are of white marble & just finished - taking off my shoes - but keeping on my hat entered the former - the tomb is in as splendid an apartment as painting and gilding can make it - the body is encased and covered with richest cashmeres and cloth of gold - the red cap and diamond star of the dead Sultan on the top - numbers of turkish women as well as men were spectators as well as ourselves on the whole the effect is magnificent and pleasing - showing great respect for the dead - here his son the present Sultan frequently comes to pray

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Rose from my narrow berth swarming with fleas at an early hour - to get a sight of the approaching Stamboul - by the dawning light could just distinguish the shore of Europe - along which we were sailing - found by enquiry we were yet three hours from the city -

Many of the turks on deck were yet paying their devotions to the sleepy God - there is one turbaned gentleman who has a wife of some pretentions - but constantly muffled up as she is, can hardly tell what she is - and if he observed any one looking at her he evidently cautions her - as the veil is drawn closer or the umbrella hoisted - her age is from 20 to 25 a fine eye and a delicate hand - with the tips of the fingers tinged with yellow which I cannot think is becoming - during the voyage they have been all the time seated, never did I see her rise untill we came in sight of the city - she has a black woman servant with - who hides her sable charms after the fashion of the mistress - -

Opposite Stefano point the domes of the mosques were observable and the Sea of Marmora covered with sails large and small as far as the eye could see - soon up to the seven towns which is the commencement of the wall on the side of the sea - considering the age of the wall built by Constantine - it is yet in fine preservation - in one place alone did it appear to have crumbled - many places it rises out of the water - in other small buildings have been erected between it and the waters edge - nothing can be more beautifull than the peninsula on which the city stands rising gradually from the water - the houses are generally small and mean, for a great capital -

On the more elevated sites the minarets and crescent crowned cupolas appear to fine advantage only one ancient column of the emperors reared its venerable head blacked by time among the white and spiny crested minarets of the mahomidan conquerors - the Seraglio at the extremity of the promontory occupied a large space with its gardens (kiosks) or summer houses and shady cypresses - it is the winter residence of the sultan - and with its harems or tomans appartments - Kithums- calvairy barracks , armouries - treasuries - and many others - forms a city of itself - at this season unoccupied - could only distinguish the mosque of Sophia from several others equally large by he flatness of the dome - which does not add to its beauty for externally the structure was a heavy appearance -

In rounding the point of the Seraglio our boat was near running down a large cayoque filled with musicians and turks, no doubt they were much alarmed - as accidents of this sort frequently occur in a harbour swarming with boats - once in the Golden horn - was struck with the extent of the city or rather three cities - Constantinople & Pera on the two sides of the golden horn and Scutari on the opposite shore of the Bosphorus -

Landed at Pera near the new mosque of the Sultan Ifamoud - and winding along the narrow streets of Para - found Mr Ruboli's private boarding house - elevated, and pleasantly situated opposite the garden of the french ambassadors palace -

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Went on deck this morning about six o'clock - the sun shining brilliantly on the clear waters of the Egean - near the coast - and off the ruins of Alexandria Troas - the Island of Mityline just visible behind us - and approaching Tenedos - on which we soon descried a fortification and a town -

Opposite is the coast on which is the plain of Ancient Troy - with my spy glass could distinguish the called the tomb of Achilles - and Mount Ida in the distance - the country is green and fertile but nearly uninhabited - some cattle were standing in the water on the sea shore - past Tenedos - and the island of Imbros in sight entered the dardanelles, these straits separating Europe from Asia are five miles wide at the entrance - with a fortress on the promontory - passing which is a bay - the spot supposed to be the place where the Greek ships were drawn up in the siege of Troy -

Shortly came to a narrow part of the channel where are the celebrated fortresses on both sides - call'd the castles of Europe and Asia - the heavy artillery of which is on a level with the water - had no communication with shore, as they have become lately infected with the plague - saw a number of tents supposed of the cause an infected nissels -

Passed point Nagura the ancient Abydos - and where Xerxes constructed his bridge of boats - and where Lord Byron swam across - as Leander did before him "To Woo - and - Lord knows what beside And swam for Love and I for glory" The shores on each side the Hellespont are here beautifull, cultivated and interspersed with Trees -

Laasaki is a small town with a mosque and nearby are the ruins of the ancient Sampsaens - nearly opposite on the European side is Gallipolis - with its double harbour but not a ship in either - now we were thro the Hellespont and into the sea of Marmora - and by the setting sun could just distinguish the island of that name in the distance.
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Took passage in Austrian Danube Companys steamer Crescent for Constantinople - walked before breakfast again amongst the bazars & the business part of the city - long lines of slow moving camels were coming in loaded with wool and valohia - which is a sort of large acorn and used in dying - the camel is a patient mild looking creature - uttering occasionally a noise that I can compare to nothing but a loud noise moan - they shed their wool at this season of the year which gives them a squalled naked arpearance - their foals accompany them -

At some of the bazaars roast mutton and bread is sold - a plateful at 2 piastras - abt 80 cents - the turks are very moderate eaters - and drinking anything stronger than water forbidden by the Koran -

At the appointed hour went on board the steamer to depart for Stamboul - the turks all take deck passages and there they sit squatted on their legs - with the chibouk in the mouth - some wearing the fez or red cap and some the turban - the cabin passengers were 7 englishmen, one turkish governor & two Italians - residents of Const- - the governor was from a small place in the interior Anatolia -

Receding gradually from the port we soon lost sight of the city and the surrounding villages - untill alone is visible the gigantic side of Mount Sipylus - about midnight the boat, stopped and a confused trampling and scufling on deck ensued - we were taking in passengers at Mityline - to find room on decks already crowded - creates a disturbance - that threatened to end in a fight.

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This is friday or the turkish Sunday - the mosques are open - but many of them attend to their affairs as usual - went on board the american ship Illinois to put on board the carpets one pack addressed to Rochester and one to St. Louis -

Was much shocked when the mate shewed me a N Yk paper giving an account of the murder of Mr. Jesse Baker and the burning of W. Colliers Store - a most dreadful inhuman affair what will be poor Mr. Sindells feelings - at the loss of such a promising young man his nephew my mind all day running on the dreadful occurence - the St. Louis paror says the murderers are unwhipt of Justice - what an expression - is whipping a punishment proportionate to such crimes - query - from the frequency of crimes in America are not the present laws too lenient for the suppression of crime? -

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This day purchased of a Turk called Mustapha ten persian hearth rugs or carpets - who eventually took one third less than the price asked - the colours are good but the patterns are not much to our taste - cost 9 to 13 Spanish dollars each - the carpets are made in the interior of Asia minor about 2 days march from Koniah -

In the evening took a long walk on the marina or sea side as it is a promenade much frequented at Smyrna where are coffees - at which ice creams or gelatines after the Italian fashion are served out - the ladies partake of these refreshments outside the coffees - that is the Greek ladies.

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Went this morning thro the bazars - which are filled with the various commodities in demand in this part of Asia -
cloathing of all sorts, saddles & harness for asses and camels with trappings of scarlet cloth - pipes with long stems called chibouks,and tobacco, occupy a conspicuous part - cup holders of delicate silver filagree work were offered me as also fancy slippers - and gold corded head dresses and red scull caps for ladies - handkerchiefs of white muslin with gold embroidered corners at 20 piasters (abt 3/- sng. each)

Went to the wharves where the porters or Hummels were employed bringing the loading for the ships - bales of wool and valonia - weighing 300 to 400 1 were carried on the backs of these men who wear an immense pad or saddle - and surprised that many of them are old men carrying such heavy burdens have seen no wheel'd carriage in the place except a gilt donkey carriage that the old Governor rides in sometimes - the roads and streets are too narrow and uneven for carriages.

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