(Henry Shaw's personal map pictured left)

Started at half past five this morning to spend the day at Bournaba which is another pleasant village like Bugia & about 9 miles from Smyrna and facing the rugged front of Mount Sipylus -

Visited several gardens - which are laid out with much taste and style - the tall lofty cypress trees and luxuriant fig are particularly beautifull - the gardens & rural residences I visited were one of an English merchant - one of an Arminian goldsmith - and another of a former turkish governor of Smyrna - now residing at Constantinople -

Scattered about in the walls of Bournaba are pieces of marble columns and capitals - the wreck of some ancient Greek temple - the day being less hot than usual enjoyed the ride much - in the bridges skirting the narrow road through which I passed - were the myrtle the honeysuckle (pictured right) and rosy blossomed oleander all in full bloom -

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Mr. Frankim who stopped a few hours at Smyrna on his way to Constantinople - offered me his services - left Mr. Simon at Paris in good health.

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Beginning of Journal: Smyrna, Constantinople, Asia Minor
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Started at five this morning on horseback to Bugia a villa five miles from the city - followed guide thru the crooked narrow streets to the outskirts of Smyrna - saw some few like myself on horseback or rather say on ponies but more on asses - and a well dressed lady accompanied by a gentleman either french or Italian -

Passed the little river Meles by the caravan bridge - winding round the foot of- Mount Pagus with its ruined Acropolis - passed the remains of an immense wall - the road nothing more than a mule path - and very irregular, ascended a rising ground from whence is a fine view of Smyrna and its Gardens - situated a few miles from the bottom of the Buq mountains on all sides - some of which are green and beautiful, with trees to the top - looking to the interior, the country is pleasantly diversified with hill and dale - the ripe grain (for it is now harvest time) contrasts beautifully with the vivid green of the fig and almond trees -

Over the Meles are the lofty arches of an acqueduct - double-and resembling the roman acqueduct at the Pont du Gar near Nidmes or the more modern one at Spoleto in the papal dominions - how this could convey water to Smyrna is difficult to see as it is behind the mountains - perhaps ancient Smyrna was differently situated from the present one -

Soon came to Bugia which is composed mostly of the country seats of the European resident merchants of the city — and very pleasant retired -places they are - situated in gardens surrounded by high walls - there is a greek church and School - the landlord of the pension suite married his wife here - we called at the mother's a small house, the door shaded by vines - on which the green grapes were hanging luxuriantly - and pretty little flower gardens - there were some smiling little faces - but could not say a word to them more than smile again and take the flowers offered to me - a sad thing not to be able to say a word in the language of the country -

As the sun was getting warm and not wishing to remain at Bugia all day hurried back to the city — by the high or principal road - but a poor excuse for a road - impassable for a wheel carriage of which however there are none - met several families going out - all on gaily equipped asses -

In the afternoon went to the outskirts of the upper or turkish town - a number of turks were assembled under the porch of an illbuilt wooden construction - in which was to be performed the religious ceremony we had come to witness - the room itself looked as much like a poor plain negro church without a pulpit as anything I can think of - with gallery all round - one side of which was latticed and entered by another door - this was for the turkish women - but of them I could see nothing - before the ceremony the men sat crosslegged smoking - except such as were washing hands, feet and face at the fountain close by - among the company was a facetious old turk - who by his jokes made the rest merry - without knowing a word of what was said - soon observed the subject of their merriment - there were some pale faced sleek looking youths - who were evidently the objects of the old mans vicious propensities - and were little abashed by the old mans jokes and the mirth of the others - as stroking his hand and such familiarities plainly indicated -

This was shortly interrupted by the approach of a grave looking personage in a green turban who taking off his shoes entered the temple and ceremonies by prayers and repeated prostrations - he was afterwards joined by others, when the spectators took their places in the galleries - the prayers were at first in a low tone and prostrations moderate - increasing in loudness and violence - this continued near half an hour when about fifty got on their feet - some five or six of the priests remained seated chanting in a loud monotonous tone - those standing up repeated with more or less violence of noise and gesture - untill at last they appeared to be seized with a sort of frenzy - bowing the body from side to side and breathing or rather groaning with the utmost violence at last streaming with perspiration for the weather was hot they became exhausted except some three or four who I presume more interested than the rest held out a little longer jumping and yelling allah like madmen - & the ceremony finished with the din of symbals & tambourines - these are the sect of Mohammedans called Dancing Dervishes - and are held in great respect by all good musselmans -

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Rose quite refreshed this morning the bilious symptoms nearly disappeared am glad I did not take medicine - nothing better that fasting and lemonade for a slight bilious attack - find Smyrna different from any place I ever saw before - being my first sight of Turkey and its inhabitants - strolled among the narrow streets to the varrouis quarters of the city - the lower part or around the port is occupied by the Greeks and the other franks the middle part by the armenians (who I at first took for turks) and the higher part built on the foot of mount Pagus is the turkish part -

Various are the dresses of the turks but most of them wear a light coloured turban - some have brass or silvermounted pistols in their sash which with the well dressed is of silk - they carry on various trades - such as farriers - shoe makers and etc. - but more are seated in the bazars and around the coffee houses smoking their water pipes call'd Nargales -

As to the women you cannot tell what they are they go out in the streets head face and neck covered with white cotton except (mouth - crossed out by Shaw) nose and eyes and over these is placed a pair of black crape - feet and ankles are covered with loose yellow marrocco boots so that it is impossible to tell whether they are well turned or the contrary - on the whole they look more like the mask'd mourners at a Neapolotain funeral than anything I have see been before - can scarcely turn my eyes on them without laughing - this costume the turk considers the safeguard of chastity - so absurd that their neighbours the Greek and Armenian females never attempt to follow - who in the evening are seated at the entrance of their marble paved courts in all their native attractions, regular features, skin soft and transparent rendered more delicate by the mollyfying air of Asia - eyes of a shining and most enchanting lustre - hair long and silky - quite different from what I have recently seen in Greece and the islands -

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Rather feverish this morning - thought abstinance the best remedy so breakfasted on an orange - on going on deck was full before us the island of Scio the most beautifull and verdant of the archipelago but the pleasing view is no unmixed with reminiscences of its late misfortunes - among ruined buildings are scattered among its groves of cypress and mastic trees - after the rebellion of 1822 - nine hundred greeks alone remained out of the previous 120,000 most were put to the sword or led into slavery some escaped and these are now returned so that the island is already returning is cheerfull appearance - it still continues under the turkish government -

Our boat stopped several passengers came on board, and a well dressed turkish officer with a fez and milatary coat - coasting along the eastern side of Scio - soon doubled the cape on the continent of Asia Minor and entered the Gulf of Smyrna, at the bottom of which is situated the port and city of that name - the island of Mityline was in sight at a distance and opposite to the mouth of the Gulf - sailing down the gulf had a pleasing view of the fertile, tho mountainous shores of Asia Minor - but the charms of nature were even inadequate to drive away head ache and drowsiness - each new scene only made me wish more to be in sight of Smyrna and ashore in a comfortable room at an hotel -

At last Smyrna lay before us houses interspersed with shady groves of cypress and overlooked by lofty mount Pagus - crowned with the ruins of its fortress - the scene of many a bloody seige in times gone by - was among the first ashore - and soon comfortably lodged at the Pension Suisse - a divan afforded several hours of safeded repose - and taking the precaution to eat little or no dinner retired to rest at an early hour -

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Went this morning with Mr. Evangeles to the Greek college - one pupils read Homer, then pronunciation of ancient Greek quite different from ours - about noon took leave of our Kind friend and soon after transferred our luggage from the steamer Makmandi which is in practique to the Serdvrico which in quarantine - so that now can have no more communication with Europe without performing quarantine.

In the evening left the busy port of Syra shaping our course to Smyrna and leaving the islands of Mycone and Tenos to the lef and Delos and Paros to the right - the sea is tranquil compared with what it was leaving the Peireus - went to bed rather feverish - indigestion caused by the sea sickness of two days ago -

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At Syra - just before sun rise this morning the Mahmsudi ceased working her engine, down goes the anchor, we are in the port of Syra - up on deck and not long in going ashore and in quest of my friend Mr. Evangelises the Greek boy as he was called at New York (see 25 and 26th of May) at 6 O' clock he had already left his room to attend his pupils, but afterwards met him in the street, went to the old locanda to breakfast - where we remained most of the hot part of the day -

Invited Mr. Evangeles to dine with us and introduced him to Mr. Eaton of Baltimore - the Greek is very warm in the cause of the Cretans and the people of Thessaly and Macedonia who are shortly expected to rise against the turks - referred to the death of his father and the carrying off of his mother and sisters with tears in his eyes - he himself was taken (probably purchased) by Captain Glover from the turks at Smyrna at the age of nine years.

In the evening rowed across the port to the handsome new quarantine buildings where three english gentlemen have just entered on their return from Constantinople - they are acquanitances of our party - they were in their spoglia dresses - a coarse shirt and pantalons just bought at Syra - their trunks and contents were given up to be smoked and aired - by so doing they remain five fays less in quarantine that is min in place of 14 - this is call'd spoglia (from the Italian verb Spogliare - to strip off) - great numbers in quarantine - whole families from Crete - among them pretty black eyes - the different parties are kept distinct - we spoke to them thro a double railing 8 feet apart - afterwards rowed out the port along the rocky shore of the island -

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