At the appointed hour of seven appeared my guide in a gay Greek costume - viz red fer or cap with long silk tassel - embroidered cloth jacket with open sleeves - white skirts and embroidered gaiters - a silk sash and pair of formidable horse pistols - off we started for Pentelicus - at full gallop - but as the sun had already began to be powerfull - and passed the outskirts of the town we slackened our pace -

This is the first of three days of holiday or saint days - which it appears the Greeks observe strickly in addition to the ascent of Mount Pentelicus we are to see a large assemblage of people who are feasting at a Convent at the foot of the mount - we followed the road that the brave Athenians too when with their general Miltiades they went to meet the Persian host at Marathon -
"The battlefield where Persias (Perseus) victim horde first bowed beneath the brunt of Hella's sword"

the main road to the mountain and that followed by the carriages that bring down the marble - we left for bye path less dusty - the wild country uncultivated, but covered with wild thyme and other ordorifous shrubs -

In two hours from Athens arrived at the ascent of Pentelicus - the guide thinking it too war and wearisome to ascend on foot - Kept on our horses or rather ponies well adapted to the work - the first quarries we came to are the ones where they are excavating for King Othos palace - now building - the pieces are small - and quarried with gunpowder like common stone -

Higher up and near the middle of the mountain side are the ancient beds whence have been taken the pieces for the construction of the temples - the lofty sides of the marble rock have been cut with chissel (chisel) and with incredible patience and labour, but how the large blocks have been cut out, modern architects are undetermined - the large blocks for the temple of Jupiter Olympus have been taken from a quarry still higher up - one piece in the rough form of the base of a column and many tons weight remains on the side of the road - probably the workmen found it defective and thus it has remained where they left it for the last 23 centuries -

Once at the top of Pentelicus it appeared as if we had arrive in another world for the one we had left lay spread out below us land and sea on every side - before us to the N. East lay extended the island of Negropont the Eubea of the ancients - separated from the continent by a long but unequal channel - in the same direction but closer to us was the Bay of Marathon in the form of a semicircle - the plain on the Persians camped and the hill down which rushed Miltiades and his Athenians - to meet and put to flight the invaders - ten to one - at the bottom of the Hill is the mound of earth that covers the ashes of those brave fellows and raised over them by their countrymen as a monument - this is considered by historians one of the greatest victories ever gained - but what a reflection that the that the Athenian general should a few years after die in prison - a victim to the jealosy of his country he had served signally --

Turning round you face the plain of Attica - Athens, Salamis - and the Peireus - the view extends to the further shore of the gulph, the mountains in the vicinity of Argos and Corinth - to the west the snow capped Parnassus - and Mount Helicon - part of Phocia and Beotia, almost the whole of Attica as far as Cape Sunium - a most magnificent prospect which I should have enjoyed most if the wind had less boisterous -

In descending walked part of the way for the road was too steep to ride - tho our studs performed wonderfully - on the skirts of the mountain is a poverty stricken Greek convent - ravaged by the turks and the inmates killed in the war of the revolution - here annually the peasantry of the neighbouring country hold a feast and this was the first day of merriment and gaity - asses and mules were grazing about in numbers and under the trees - and in the convent yard were the busy guests - when we arrived many were employed roasting sheep - which were whole, others had finished cooking and under the trees making their repast - men and women boys and girls - all dressed in the gayest style immaginable - but not alike, for the Albanians have quite another costume from the rest - not by any means elegant - but what was most pleasing was their great cleanliness - some of the women had coins woven in the hair, and many had their hair dyed red in part - none wore corsets - the breasts were covered with a think muslin and shown rather prominently - but sorrow am I to say I could not admire them as Bryon did when he says
"I see their glorious black eyes shine
But gazing on each glowing maid,
My own the burning tear drop laves
To think such breasts much suckle slaves"

He must certainly have forgot the plump, round breasted maids of Italy - for these greek women are far from attractive in this respect - and then they have such a dull inanimate look - their regular greek features seldom exhibit a smile - it struck me they have been under turkish discipline - in dancing few participated and to themselves - motion slow and ungracefull - the men were quite animated a dozen to gather joining hands and dancing in a circle - but how unmeaning to dance without women - they were gaily dressed many of them elegant fine looking fellows - their music loud and monotonous for the most part a drum accompanied by a squeaking pipe - the sight altogether put me in mind of a gathering of the better sort of our American indians - particularly as the libations began to operate -

A quarrel arose and pistols and daggers were in play - which a few armed police mens with muskets and bayonets succeeded in wrenching away from the combatants - this set some families to going away the ladies mounting their donkies crosslegged like the men - I wonder they permit their women to ride in this manner -

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Commenced reading this morning the history of ancient Greece in Italian - being on the spot where these great events tooks place - that have added such lustre to the Grecian name - find it doubly interesting - should have preferred Gillies history in English but could not find one - but hope to benefit by the practice of the Italian that I so much admire

On the side of the acropolis facing the temple of Jupiter Olympus is a cave with a majestic arched entrance - it was once covered with marble and the sides faced with columns, fragments of which still remain - it was the temple of Bacchus - over on the top tower up two delicate columns with triangular capitals - the figure of Bacchus stoo'd between them - my guide says it is at Oxford in England -

In this cave I spent several hours during the heat of the day reading - and looking at the strange scene around me - in the evening rode out on horse back alone, some five miles above the town passed a bridge across the Cephissus (Cephisus River) which is mainly dry, at last is it anything more than a mountain torrent? - returned thro the Groves of the Academe the retreat of Pluto - the fine venerable olives, like the old oaks in the parks of England

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These two days spent in visiting the remains of Athens former splendour - The most perfect temple that remains is that of Theseus (Hephaestus) all the columns are standing - and the cella which has a modern roof - and serves as a place of deposit for objects of art found in the vicinity - its porticoes serve as a repose for Greek Suzarosi - of which there are a number - lazy looking fellows stretched at full length in the shade - the bas reliefs on the frieze representing the labours of Hercules and victories of Theseus are nearly obliterated by the 24 centuries that have passed over them - as also the hand of mischief -

A few hundred yards off is the hill or rock of the Areopagus - where the Athenien judges sat to deliver judgment in the dark - it is nothing more now than a bare rock - there are the remains of stairs cut therein - here Socrates received sentence of death and afterwards the apostle Paul stood before his judges - -

Spend several hours under the shade of the rock reading - returning to my hotel in a narrow street came accross a small antique tower - formerly the temple of the winds - which it appears they divided into eight parts it has eight sides on each of which is disignated an atribute by figures in bas relief - on of which I noticed was a female bearing fruit in cornucopia -

The temple of the Olympian Jupiter is about the same distance (300 yards) from the Acropolis as the Theseum, but on another side - sixteen magestic Corinthian columns stand in bold relief before the spectator the remains of near a hundred that formed the temple - the sides of Pentelicus were hugely met to furnish these immense masses of beautifull white marble - the columns are over six feet in diameter - the flowing capitals which are high up in the air and out of the way of injury are in beautifull preservation -

This is harvest time and the greek peasants are making their stacks of barley close by and where once the remainder of the temple stoo'd - did the proud Athenians ever think the temple of their mighty deity would become a barn yard! -

Rose at 5 on Saturday morning the 29th - there is a steep craggy mountain about a mile from the acropolis - that overlooks it and the surrounding plain - in company with my french companion we ascended to the top, which had we attempted in any other time than in the coolness of the morning, should have found very wearisome - once on the summit our toil was well repaid - a beautifull scene - in the distance is the Peireus and the blue waters of the Saronic gulf studded with islands, the vale beneath lays at your feet like a map - while the broad sided Hyrmettus elevates his lofty summit to the east - here is a small Greek chapel of most humble architecture, as they always are - perhaps the turks did not permit them to build more elegant edifices

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At 8 last night left Syra all sparkling with lights - which being on the acclivity of a Hill would be a delightfull place for an illumination - the Steamer crowded with Greeks - who cover the decks quite gaily with their costumes of bright colours - the men are certainly handsome and better dressed than the women - in the obscurity of the night soon lost sight of Syra -

Rose early this morning from the sofa of the cabin (no birth for passengers to Athens) close to Cape Suniun (Sounion) as the sun arose the columns of the temple were distinct - standing where they are yet, for the past 2000 years -

"Save when Tritonius airy shrine adorns Colorma's cliff and gleams along the wave"

furthur on, the island of Egina (Aegina) became distinct and far away in the distance the snow capped Parnassus (Parnassus) - the sea as calm as a lake, but few sails to be seen to gladden the sight - as we approached the Peireus (Piraeus) - before us lay the Athenian Acropolis crowned with the ruins of its marble temples - passed a point on which are some remains of architecture - this is the tomb of Themistocles and looks towards Salamus the theatre of his glory - by a narrow entrance came into the port or basin - among the vessels was a brig of war which saluted our arrival, having on board the Austrian ambassador -

Was soon landed and in a carriage for Athens which is five miles off - the remains of the wall are strewed in various parts along the road - in less than an hour was in the modern city or rather town of mostly low and mean looking houses - indeed Athens is a place just rising out of the ruins the Turkish war let it in-

After calling on several at last found a comfortable house in the Hotel des Etrangers where I was accompanied by Mr Hautefeuille a fellow passenger from Syra - in the afternoon mounted the steep rock of the acropolis - these celebrated Grecian temples have be so well described that I shall not attempt to say more about them, that the impressions of a short visit - they are the most perfect ruins I have yet seen for the brilliant white marble of Pentelicus is incorruptible - they are four temples in all, but the Parthenon is by far the largest - the sculpture and bas reliefs are much injured, indeed I felt a sorrow and regret that the productions of such brave workmen should have so suffered - it is inconceivable with what precision the large masses of marble are joined together - and what remains of the walls are one solid mass - and put together with cement - -

To make up for the comfortable lodgings at Syra I lost on the Steamer went early to bed -

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May thank fortune the last day of one stay at Syra has arrived for a stay of 6 days are five to many on an island of such limited extent - but myself and Mr. Anson J. Phelps - New York - son of one of my old mercantile correspondents - have been gratified at making the acquaintance of a young Greek - Mr. Christopher Evangeles - educated under the protection of the late Mr. Ward of N. York (Prince Ward King and Co.) - who has been several years at Syra - where he is well known and respected - he tells us the military (that we see in the town) dressed men with swords at their sides are Albanians chiefs and are setting a foot a revolutionary expedition to Thessaly and Macedonia - which provinces are still under the sway of the Turkish Sultan - no doubt the Greeks have many wrongs to avenge - Mr. E - is very warm as Phelps informs me that at N. York he heard that his mother had been made prisoner and carried off by them when he was a child and in the last revolution -

The weather gets warmer every day - two of us have a small room ten feet square, where we fight the mosquitoes and fleas all night - for sleep is out of the question - at 7 this evening embark for Athens where we arrive tomorrow morning - Mr. Phelps goes on to Trieste in the same boat - The Govanni d' Austria - having already visited Athens Smynra and Constantinople -

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Waiting for the Austrian Steamer to take us to Athens - found little to interest us at the island of Syra - went twice to visit the old fountain back of the old town for Syra consists of two towns the old town and the port - the former built on a cone shaped hill - on the top of which is a church and catholic bishops house - the fountain is known from the most remote antiquity - and now as in the days of ancient Greece do thru nymples resort - with their water jugs - of the same shape and carried in the same manner as represented in Grecian sculpture -

The road or irregular path is on the steep side of a mountain - and there you see hundreds of Grecian females moving and even toiling with their loads - some going and others returning - this is the only good fountain on this part of the island, and they are too poor or the nature of the rock does not admit of an acqueduct - the Syriat females are not strikingly beautifull, but are very active and rather delicately shaped - they appear very modest - or perhaps bashfullness at seeing a stranger - for the old town is seldom visited by those coming to Syra -

In the evenings we walk in another part, that which in the anafes (annals?) of ancient Greece is called Hermopolis - this is a favourite most particularly on Sunday evenings - most of the better classs of Sepriats (separates?) here take their promenade - but what appeared to me singular the ladies are seated together in groups while the men perambulate to themselves - the grecian ladies are said to give a decided preference to the men of their own country - who different from Italy and France! - Syra is about the centre of the archipelago and by mounting the rocks at the point above the promenade had an enchanting sight of the neighbouring Greek isles Mycone (Mykonos) and Tenos (Tinos) studded with villages as many as 8 or 10 in sight - Naxos so famous for being the place where Ariadne was abandoned by her faithless lover, and in the the distance a number of other islands - some of which we passed on the route - the sight is lovely and being connected as all these places are with mythology and Grecian history are highly interesting - still Syra is a tedious place, and time passes heavily on our hands -

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On coming on deck this morning found we were already among the islands of the archipelago and opposite the island Milo which we passed to the right of us - there between the islands of Serplio (Serfios) and Siphanto (Sifnos) - a number of other islands in sight among which are Paros and Antiparos - the former celebrated for its marble - and the latter for its Giotto the finest specimens of Grecian sculpture as the Venus de Medici and the apollo are of Parian marble, the quarries are not worked since the time of the Turks -

The island of Syra soon came in sight - vessel ran partly around it and passing a lighthouse on an island opposite, entered a busy little port where were laying two french steam packets (ships) and about 20 sail of ships of several flags, but principally Greek - Soon found to our disappointment that the french steamer was in quarantine and that we should have to wait for the Austrian packet of the 26th to go to Athens but as there was no remedy had to the best we could -

After some difficulty found a room at the Sucunda Greca - the ladies had still more difficulty in finding lodgings for Syra is a port of such recent and sudden growth that accommodations for travellors are very indifferent - the houses are generally very small and many of the streets are mere allies and very irregular - as it was my first entrance to a Greek town was much struck with the costume and manners of the people - as evening was already at hand had just time to climb the hill on the back of the town and take a view of the port and the surrounding mountains - with their tops gilded by the setting sun -

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