Early this morning were joined by our companions and proceeded with a guide to see what little remains of the ancient Syracusa crossed the port and ascended the small river Anapus in a boat to the fountain of Ciane the spot where Pluto descend to the infernal regions when he carried off Proserpine - on the swampy banks of the Ciane found the Papyrus plant -

Mules were now ready to meet us and mounted proceed to see the two remaining columns of the temple of the Olympian Jupiter on a rising ground - and for which the Athenian general had such a religious respect that unwilling to occupy the spot as a military post was the cause as Plutarch thinks of the subsequent defeat of the Athenian army -

Two miles further on we came to the foundation of walls and forts built by Dyonisius but such is the effect of 25 centuries that the stones once square and cut have the appearance of natural rocks from this point which was what the Syracusans call the Epipoli we had a commanding view of the ground once occupied by a city of upward of a million people and probably not far from the place where Marcellus the roman general was so affected at the sight of a magnificent city doomed to pillage by roman arms -

Returning towards present city we passed a number of large Latomie some of which were subterraneous prisons and others catacombs - one of the catacombs is indeed a subterraneous city for it extends no less that two miles and no doubt contains the ashes of millions of Syracusans - in the same direction is the port called (blank space) is the excavation called Dyonisius ear were the least whisper is distinctly heard and the report of a small pistol exceeds the loudest thunder - the grecian theatre - and the roman amphitheatre the aqueducts which still carry convey the water to the port - where entered the modern town by the bridge that still connects Octigia to the mainland -

As evening had arrived our steamer left the port all of us heartily tired we too a last view of the vast Mongibello district by the setting sun and returned to our cabins

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Went on shore early this morning made an excurtion in the environs of Catania in a carriage - took a light breakfast at eight and then visited the Benediction Convent and a princely palace it is - its gardens, halls and corridors being more like a palace - the find organ of the church was played for our entertainment - the instrument is the largest in Italy and very melodious - part of the overture to the opusce of Novena was performed exquisitely - in the eruption of Etna in 63 - a tremendous stream of lava came up close to the walls of this convent and then turned another way by good fortune without injuring the building - a mass of lava 50ft high is in the yard of the convent -

At 11 o'clock got under way for Syracusa - a distance of 50 miles - after passing the black masses of lava with which the sea shore is lined - the coast is more low and less than between Messina and Catania - five hours brings us in sight of Syracusa (Siracusa) - first passing a low bare rocky shore which when Syracusa was in her greatness that part of the city called Arcadina -

We were soon round the fort and into the port which is formed by the island of Ortigia and on which is situated the city - wandered during the evening among the narrow streets and round the fortified walls of the city which are very strong - myself and Captain Clegg found lodgings ashore this evening a the Hotel del Sols

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Catania- left the port of Massena at 10 o'clock and passed down the canal that divides Italy from Sicily - the steamer kept near the shore the view of which was highly interesting, lofty mountain covered nearly to the summit with vines and olives - Scaletta (Sicily) is a town on a steep hill with a fortress on the top - most of the town in this part of the coast of Sicily are so situated as a protection against the Algerians and Saracius who formerly infested these coast plundering and carrying the inhabitants into slavery –

Passing along the coast Taormina comes in sight with its Grecian theatre on a hill - as the faces of the spectators turn Towards Mongibello (Mt. Etna) - the bold volcano served as the scene - while the extremity of the Appennines on the opposite Italian coast was at their backs - Taormina is of ancient Greek origin but during the dominion of the Romans this theatre was turned into an amphitheatre for the exhibition of gladiators -

We were now opposite the immense Etna but the summit hid in the clouds - the immense and fertile plain around the base is beautiful and even this early in the season are busy reaping the grain - here is the country of the Cyclops - and the cave of Poliphemus (Polyphemus) when Ulysses lost his companions and which establishes the locality of the scene of the Odyssy - at 4 o'clock arrived at the regular and well built town of Catania - the museum and other antiquities can be seen in a few hours - notwithstanding its destruction has so frequently happened it now contains 50,000 inhabitants -

In the evening we to the theater but was too crowded to gain admittance so myself and companions went to Visuvio to turn into our births for the night, before retiring to rest I have written these sketches of todays excurtions.

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Voyage from Naples round the island of Sicily - calling at Malta
(no written records of travels between August 1840 and May 1841)

Embarked amidst the bustle and excessive noise of Napolitain boatmen on the steamer Vesuvio - along with seventy or eighty other passengers - French, English, German and Italian - mostly gentlemen, and the same object - namely a voyage of pleasure to see Mogilbello (Mt. Etna) - the beauties of and antiquities of fair Sicilia -

We were shortly out of the port and sailing out of the fair famed bay of Naples - the - city its palaces - forts and gay cupolas on one side and the ever smoking Vesuvius on the other - as we approached Sorrento and the island of Capri the buildings of the city gradually became more indistinct - and to the North west offered to our view the Island of Ischia - Cape Misenum and Baia - alas from Baeii once called by Horace the delightfull now a sterile and desert shore -

We shortly turned the points to the south when the beautifull bay became no longer visible the shore of Calabria are bold and lofty with here and there a little city stuck on the sides of the mountain - such is Salerno and Amalfi once a place of extensive trade but now nothing more than a little fishing town - which about two centuries ago gave birth to Massuniello a common fisherman who headed a revolutionary mob and maintained himself for a time as King of Naples - Next we past Paestum with its antique temples - as night came on we saw no more of the mountains and towns of Calabria until next morning -

During the night some of the passengers suffered from sea sickness as the boat was far from an easy one and the cabin very crowded but the bright clear air of a May morning and a cheerful Italian sky put all to rights - on we sailed until six o' clock when we landed and remained two hours at a little town called Paula (Paola) to and receive passengers - continuing along a bold beautifull coast four hours more brought us to Tropea - a number of Calabrian boatmen, five athletic fellows and half naked came off in their boats - putting off Tropea -

We stretched wide our eyes to the volcanic island of Stromboli - but in vain for the hase obscured the western horizon and an object at forty miles distance was not visible - but for this we were recompensed for in two hours Cape Pelorus of the island of Sicily came in sight 2 1/2 miles distant from the shore of Italy and opposite to which is the famous rock of Scylla and the dangerous whirlpool of Charybdis - but these places must of have lost their terrors since the time of the poets Homer and Virgil as our steamer passed thru the whirlpool without the slightest appearance of danger -

The country on each side of the channel affords a pleasing prospect of gardens cottages and vine glad Hills - before us was the port of Messina our place of destination - in front of which is a fine bay and back is surrounded by loft green mountains but the scene was shortly closed by night and at 8 o'clock we land accompanied by the same noise and vociferation as experienced at parting from Naples - I accompanied two Italian gentlemen to a poor hotel called the Ville de Paris - we suppered for 5 carlini at an indifferent Frattoria - when we retired to our hotel where 3 of us occupied one room the only one at liberty in the house -

After a sound nights sleep rose next morning and walked about the town many of the principal buildings of which were ruined by the earthquake in 1789 - Messina has so suffered in former times that no remains of former magnificence now remain for what ruthless invaders left undestroyed (has suffered from - crossed out by Shaw) earthquakes have finished - so that there is little to interest the curious traveler - the streets are filled with a lively and industrious population particularly the women, many of whom are employed at spinning-weaving -

A little before noon of May 10th myself and an English military gentleman hired asses at six carlini each to carry us to the top of the Telegraph mountain - a distance of 4 miles from the city - on leaving which we passed through vineyards and fertile gardens - and coming to the steep part of the mountain near 4000 feet high and covered with ___ to the top our sure footed donkies soon carried up to the summit and richly we were paid for the ascent - for the surrounding sea and country lay at our feet like a map - to the north was the smoking island of Stromboli - and the other Sifari (Lipari) islands before us the coast and mountains of Calabria - and the straits that divide them from Sicily - the village and gardens of St. Giovanni are very pretty and further to the south is Reggio - to the north the rock of Scylla far distant on the island the immense mole of Etna rears his monstrous head - and to the west the coast of Sicily can be traced half way to Palerma (Palermo) -

After feasting our eyes on this magnificent panorama for an hour or more we wound our way down the mountain going some distance along the sea shore - somewhat fatigued and with a good appetite we sat down at 5 o'clock to a good dinner at the Hotel Vittoria in the evening an agreeable shower of rain cooled the air which continues to the time that I am writing this viz 11 o'clock on Monday night May 10th

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After a refreshing nights rest and breakfast - started in a hind baroucag to visit Trenton Falls.

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Spent at Rochester with my family and regret that I cannot conveniently remain longer with them - for after such a long absence it is regret that I leave them so soon - but the winter is approaching and my object is to go to Italy and there to pass the greater part of winter -

On the 18th took leave of my aged parents once more - my sister Sarah accompanied me to spend a few weeks in traveling about in the U States it being our intention to visit N York - Philadelphia - Baltimore and Washington and perhaps Boston -

Our first day's traveling was very hot - dusty - disagreeable - nine of us crowded in a stage coach for 60 miles to Auburn - then 80 more - pleasantly and more swiftly to Utica on a Rail Road - when we arrived late in the evening and put up at a very crowded Hotel (Baggs's).

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Left Canandaighua and returned by same route we went - back to Rochester - the village of Pittsford appears in the same condition as to prosperity and improvements as 15 years ago - when it was the residence of my dear parents and sisters.

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