Went to an old gentleman called Weber who has a collection of paintings and for sale. Also to Quirini, a grey headed artist - who though old, appeared to work hard - has a number of copies and originals for sale.

This evening Xmas eve, the bells are ringing merrily, the churches are illuminated. Went into Saint Marks, high mass was celebrating by the Patriarch - with vocal and instrumental music. The large wax tapers lighting up the old domes and arches, covered with gilded mosaics had a fine effect. The ceremony grand and imposing, it appears everything changes in Italy but religion.

The Doges, senators, & nobility are among the things past but the ecclesiastical ceremonies are still performed with the same zeal & splendor as a thousand years since. There are no Arch-bishops in Lombardy and Austria - the patriarchs are nominated by the Emperor and confirmed by the Pope -