The main street of Pera terminates at the artillery barracks - and nearby is a little spot in a neglected condition, the protestant or English burying ground - the tomb stones are good and cover the remains of english men & some Germans, did not see any dates later than two centuries back - some mentioned that the occupants had died of the plague - the profession of many were marked as levant merchants - and some had been english naval officers - the oldest was inscribed in the latin tongue - -

Near by is the grand champs des Morts of the Turks - and an Arminian burying ground nearly as large - of course could not read the Arminian epitaphs - but on many were sculptured the tools of the profession of the deceased - as shears for tailor - razor & mirror for barber - hammer and anvil for Smith and so on - flowers denoted the grave of a woman - and curious enough those that have been hung - are on the scaffold with rope to the neck - another held his head in his hand - as having suffered decapitation - but what is very pleasing as showing great humanity for the brute creation is little troughs cut in the stone to catch water for animals & birds to drink -

These grave yards are favorite lounges of the people in some places were groups of women seated very modestly to themselves while sweetmeat dealers and sherbet vendors where carrying about their wares - turks are so cleanly dressed that you feel no hesitation in partaking of these delicacies - a numerous circle of men was very attentively listening to a venerable old man who was singing - and accompanied by a small stringed instrument called a mandolin - enquiring what the subject of his song was to excite such interest, was told that it related to the military achievements of the pacha of Egypt with the french some 40 years ago - or rather when Bonaparte went to Egypt - the old man put it in form of a dialogue - making the pacha to say to the french - "I have 20,000 true and brave turks - with the flints of their firelocks well trimmed and all ready to fight you"

Leaving the cemetery noticed a woman in mourning sitting on a recently made grave - from her dress she was Arminian - and accompanied by two other females - here she had come to pass an hour near to the object once dear to her affections she lifted up her countenance suffused in tears - her sorrowful looks told that grief was her companion - she had lost the partner of the joys of her youth and was advanced to that period of life when the loss of such a companion can never be replaced - one who had paid the youthful glow of her cheeks and bright eyes with the tribute of his love and affection - tho now somewhat time worn - enough remained to indicate the former splendour of her beauty - - - -

This being the anniversary of American independence treated my companions at table to Champagne the one sitting opposite to me is a middle aged man wearing a fez and is in the employ of the sublime porte - well informed - particularly in all that relates to Turkey - an Arminian - speaks french correctly but no English - next is Pasquale a young man a clerk in a commercial house - a native of Smyrna - of course speaks the lingua franca - french and turkish - in appearance is like a Creole of Louisiana - Mr. Purdie sits next, employed in the counting house of Mr. Black - is English by birth, has lived in the U.States - speaks several languages - Doctor Glascot is a physician - lately from one of the London hospitals and last from Ezeroum - an Irishman loud and open hearted - Mr. Longworth - an intelligent well informed man - author of a "Year among the Circassians" - recently published in London and correspondent of a London Journal - has a high opinion of the turks, their religion - morals & institutions - and a great admirer of their ladies - Mr. Singnist (or Linguist) - an elderly gentleman on business from London and bound to Odessa - Ferrier & Vigus - both irishmen & fellow travellers -

We are all tolerably agreeable to each other - but the Irish rather too much predominates - the brandy bottle is somewhat admired - and the conversation not always the most edifying - those that ought to speak least generally taking the lead in conversation -

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